Finished troubleshooting my Crack+SB build !!!

Happy Ghost · 1348

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Happy Ghost

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 155
on: April 06, 2019, 06:40:13 PM
Hi All,

Just wanted to share my experience in building the Bottlehead Crack with speedball upgrade. So first things first: The Crack build went smoothly and boy! was it great to hear. Did I mention that I used the Bottlehead Powercord also  :)..  Anyhows it sounded so nice that I was really hesitant to put in the Speedball upgrade. I was totally flummoxed at how that "warm" sound could be possibly improved upon. And like how curiosity killed the proverbial cat, this was the beginning of my troubles  :(

It started with some unforseen disasters like the dog taking a shine to the Speedball boards  >:( Finally after getting everything in place (see Initial Layout), the sound was absolutely flat. There was no hint of a strong bass, no warmth.. pretty ordinary. I had read other posts in the forum that say that it takes time to get used to the Speedball sound etc. etc. But my story was different. I just had to get back to the wonderful sound I had heard previously. So probing around and fiddling around with all the connections I found the problem to be in the 100uF caps. One of them was barely hanging by a thread and one of the leads came out at the slightest touch. After applying a ton of solder, freeing them from being underneath the board and rechecking for cold joints, it sounded so much better !! See the caps now in the Final Layout.jpg. The sound had improved so much, yet there was still something missing I felt. I had read everywhere else that bass becomes tigher and better. In my case I still had trouble picking up the bass lines especially while listening to rock.

I remembered that while I was troubleshooting the amp earlier, there was a static discharge in the output tube along (a blue spark) with a pinging sound. And after that, whenever I start the amp, the o/p tube hums for a few seconds briefly. So I replaced the o/p tube with a GE 6AS7GA and finally I feel everything has come together!!! Bass is so strong and discernible, the amount of detail I can make out in music is just staggering and instrument separation is very good. Here's a pic of the my rig right now (Final Build.jpg)

I hope my experiences come in handy for future builders! This is a great rig. Thanks in particular to Eilieen and Josh for sending me replacement boards promptly. I had a couple of questions on tube rolling though.

1. I was foolish enough to try tube rolling the input tube with a 12AX7. Thankfully I realized my mistake fast and turned off the amp within a few mins. Hopefully no long lasting damage  ::) But can I replace the stock 12AU7 tube with a Tung-Sol 12AU7. I found a few of them reasonably priced at sites on the net (from $19-30).
2. My earlier stain and paint job on the Crack was pretty shoddy (and I think no one would disagree looking at the pic). Does anyone have suggestions on how best to lift the bad paint job and suggestions on how to do it better second time around.

Thanks again to the wizards at Bottlehead for this wonderful amp!!

Atul


Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19764
Reply #1 on: April 06, 2019, 08:44:59 PM
I'm glad you were able to get it sorted.  I would buy a 1 quart can of adhesive remover and soak the base in it.  I recommend doing it outside, as this stuff smells terrible.  Hose the base off after it has soaked in this chemical, then sand it out. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9662
    • Bottlehead
Reply #2 on: April 07, 2019, 05:10:35 AM
You can get the badge off with a piece of dental floss or fishing line worked between the badge and the base. You could strip the finish but I might be inclined to just sand down that finish rather than stripping it, as it looks like it's not too thick. Start at around 150 grit and work down to 220. Use a sanding block or better yet a palm sander. A little of the finish left in the grain will be fine if you recoat with the same color, it can actually help to make the finish more smooth. Wiping the wood with a damp rag before the final sanding pass will raise the grain a bit and allow the fibers that raise to be smoothed down by that last sanding before the finish is laid on. Use a tack rag to get the dust off.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Happy Ghost

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 155
Reply #3 on: April 07, 2019, 07:23:32 AM
Thanks Doc and Paul! I will try sanding off the paint job and if it doesnt work then use the adhesive remover like Paul said. I am getting a lot of stick from my wife about the shoddy paint job on an otherwise wonderful amp  ;D

Btw do you think the Tung-Sol 12AU7 will be worth trying out? I got a sweet deal off of ebay for a 6H13C and I figured.. I might as well go all Russian on the other tube too.. I am not sure of what is meant by cryo treatment offered on the tube..

Also any theories on how I might've possibly damaged the original tube? Remember I mentioned the sparking issue. I just dont want a repeat of that on my new tube.

Sorry for so many questions. I really appreciate the patience and support shown by members in this forum!

Atul