I really want to love my Quicke

bigjppop · 3853

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Offline bigjppop

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on: November 24, 2010, 11:19:57 PM
Alright friends, been living with my Quickie for a while now and its with heavy heart that I say... its just not what I want it to be.  I've read nothing but glowing reviews about the Quickie here which leads me to believe I need to make some changes.  I'm hoping you can help.

First of all, I bought my  Quickie factory assembled with the headphone option (I think I got the first one out the door).  I thought I was going to want to use it with my headphones but since I already have 3 dedicated headphone amps... it doesn't get any "head time."  I only want to use it as a preamp and I think there in lies my first issue.  My setup with the Quickie in place is seriously lacking in the bottom end (and I'm not just talking sub 40 Hz, probably sub 80 Hz).  I thought I read somewhere that this is the Speco transformers.  Can anyone provide some step by step instructions for pulling those babies out?  Will I need any other parts?

Once I got those out of there, I'm pretty sure I'll do the PJCCS as well but I want to try it out "stock" since I've never actually heard it that way.

On a separate note, I would REALLY love to have some outputs I could use to wire up my sub.  I only use one source so I don't need two inputs, but I'd really love to have two outputs.  Easy change?

Thanks in advance for any insight.  Like I said, I really want to love my Quickie, I just need to tweak it a little.



Offline InfernoSTi

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Reply #1 on: November 25, 2010, 03:33:04 AM
I don't know about the Speco's as I don't have them but I know someone who is knowledgable will comment.  

As for the PJCCS, I built mine without it and then added it in. Two different animals, in my opinion.  The mids and especially upper end seemed smeared a bit "standard" but became much clearer when the PJCCS was added. Overall, the tone seemed to soften and become more natural, too. However, I have to say that I didn't spend too many hours with it out, so it may have been a bit of the natural bloom from burn in.  I think for $35, you can't go wrong with that.  

I also switched to the Mullard tubes, which I think many folks find to be a good tube if you can find them.  

Finally, I am intending to add a second set of output jacks to mine (I like to bi-amp with my 6CL6 SPUD amp).  I have heard it is best to use a resistor between them but I believe Q did his without the resistor and said it sounds great!  

Best of luck to you and enjoy the project.

John

John Kessel
Hawthorne Audio AMT K2 Reference Speakers
Paramount 300B w/MQ All Nickel Iron,  Mundorf S/G 5.5 uF,  and  Vcap Teflon .1 uF
Auralic Taurus Preamp/Auralic Vega DAC/Auralic Aries Streamer
and lots of room treatments!


Offline Wanderer

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Reply #2 on: November 25, 2010, 04:01:33 AM
You don't need to rip the Specos out by their bloody entrails.

 Locate the brown wire from each of the transformers that is attached to the center conductor of the output RCA jacks. Unsolder that connection (or just cut it). Insulate the wires conductor and the autoformers are out of circuit.

You could  install a switch (or switches) to be able to switch the headphone autoformers in and out so you could still use headphones from time to time. I plan to do that myself but have not gotten a round tuit.

I strongly recommend the PJCCS. I hear no downsides to it. It will up your gain by a bit if you are not using plate chokes.      

                    Kevin R-M

        
« Last Edit: November 25, 2010, 01:52:53 PM by Wanderer »

Kevin R-M


Offline bigjppop

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Reply #3 on: November 25, 2010, 09:09:06 AM
I appreciate the responses so far.  So all I need to do to pull the Speco's from the circuit is cut the brown wire and tape it off?



Offline corndog71

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Reply #4 on: November 26, 2010, 03:56:07 AM
You can improve overall resolution a ton by changing the output caps to Clarity Cap ESA or MR series.

http://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=170&products_id=8628

http://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=170&products_id=8367

I also added the PJCCS which also improved resolution.

The world was made for those not cursed with self-awareness.

Rob


Offline bigjppop

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Reply #5 on: January 14, 2011, 01:40:22 AM
Alright, back again.  Removed the Speco's from the circuit and sounds WAY better as a preamp.  Now, its just a matter of trying to get the microphonics out of the equation.  I've been through 3 sets  of tubes so far, currently using the Mullard DL-92's (I believe) and my Quickie rings like a bell.  Whenever anything touches the Quickie or any of the cords attached to it (or even when the music gets loud and then I hit pause) there is this incredible ringing.  Any suggestions?

Also just wanted to follow up on adding a second output.  I only need one input some I'm thinking of simply rewiring one of the sets of inputs in parallel with the first set of outputs; will that work?  I want to run that second set to my subwoofer (active sub with built in crossover).

Thanks in advance.



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #6 on: January 14, 2011, 02:53:32 AM
Your sub amp input should have a very high impedance.  But you should install the dual outputs properly.  You can go to RS and buy two metal film 1000 (1K) ohm resistors.  Any power rating is fine.  The FP III uses a 1k resistor between the two output center conductors.  That is what connects them.  You should do something similar.  It will keep the inputs from interacting due to their impedances.  Just a safe thing to do.

I'm not that familiar with the Quickie but you might need some wire in addition to the resistor between the two outputs.  That is not a problem.  I'm sure all the signal commons, grounds, are already tied together.

As for the microphonics, am I understanding that when you put your CDP in pause the act of removing the music makes the tubes ring?  WOW!  That's amazing, and aggravating.  You might help it by putting an O-Ring between the tube socket and the top plate.  You will need longer screws for the socket.  Ace Hardware has a good selection of smaller hardware like that.  And they have O-Rings.  Take a measurement of the socket and a screw with you.  You can put the socket completely under the top plate and the O-Ring between the socket and top plate.  I mounted my 76 driver tubes on my Paramours that way. 

Go for it!