best way to attach big capacitors to underside of chassis

denti alligator · 4915

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Offline denti alligator

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I have some big caps that I've been dangling, but I fear this has lead to some not-to-stable connections, so I'd like to secure them somehow. What's the easiest, safest way to do this? Can I attach them to the other caps with electrical tape or glue?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #1 on: December 31, 2011, 11:57:05 AM
I admit, I often dangle... my capacitors.  Some I attach to a "sticky back" that has been glued to the top plate.  Others are stuck with either Yellow Tack (yellow version of blue tack from Wal-Mart) a hot glue gun or RTV.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2012, 11:06:58 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline jimbop

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Reply #2 on: December 31, 2011, 01:04:16 PM
Perhaps a zip-tie strap. No glue required. Or you could mount the strap to the chassis.



Offline porcupunctis

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Reply #3 on: December 31, 2011, 05:53:09 PM
I used some "thingies" from Radio Shack that look like plastic hair barrettes with sticky tape on the bottom.  With these I used some velcro straps to hold some big A** caps in my Crack build.  I don't think they will hold permanently but if they fail, I can re-secure them with JB-weld and forget about it.

I found a roll of velcro at either Home Depot or Lowes that has fuzzy on one side and sticky on the other.  You just cut the tape to the size you need. This stuff is awesome and I'm going to buy some more. 

I originally planned to drill some holes and secure the velcro with a bolt and a big honkin' washer but this solution worked out much better.

Hey!  Happy new year! 

Randall Massey
Teacher of Mathematics
Lifetime audio-electronics junkie


Offline ssssly

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Reply #4 on: January 01, 2012, 02:16:25 AM
This is how I do mine. I get those thin metal strips with holes pre-drilled in them from the hardware store, strap the cap to it with blue tack and zipties, and then screw it to the underside. Works pretty well if I do say so myself.

Couple of pics from my SEX build below.

http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,861.0.html



Offline RayP

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Reply #5 on: January 01, 2012, 10:03:08 AM
I have used Amazing Goop successfully for some time now, even with large motor run caps which are much heavier than electrolytics. I apply pressure for 24 hours until the glue sets.

With a reasonable amount of force, you can remove the cap if you need to.

It's inexpensive for a tube of the stuff and I get it at the local Ace Hardware.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/all_purpose.htm

ray

Ray Perry


Offline richardl

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Reply #6 on: January 04, 2012, 10:11:14 AM
Zip Ties through the chassis - not attractive but easy to take off.
Double sided sticky foam tape from 3M(I think) - hard to get off but works great
Hot glue gun - if it is heavy, forget it. 
Wire it to the chassis
if electrolytics then use a clamp

My favourite is the sticky double sided tape as it works the best in the long run.



Offline Dr. Toobz

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Reply #7 on: January 04, 2012, 10:55:09 AM
I had originally used those common wire-tie holders with the sticky tape on one side (such as those supplied with the SEX amp to keep the signal wires organized) but I found that my 100uF Solens eventually pulled them away from the plate (presumably due to the weight). A bit of Gorilla Glue took care of that problem.



Offline Laudanum

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Reply #8 on: January 05, 2012, 04:30:57 PM
For the large 100uf films I used the tie wrap mounts but I drilled the chassis (Crack) and attached with screws.  For smaller, lighter caps, I go with the same mounts but just use the attached 2 sided tape.

Desmond G.


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #9 on: January 06, 2012, 01:16:08 AM
The Sticky Back should have holes in it for mounting with a pair of small screws and nuts.  If not, drill a couple through the nylon.