Airbrush advice needed.

[Jim R.]

Ok, I now really want to find an alternative to rattle cans of paint.  The CanGun I have is ok, but it still has some issues too, and my fingers are just not holding out with rattle cans so I want to switch to a decent airbrush system.  First of all, lots of brands to choose from, but the top ones seem to be Iwata, Testors, Badger and Paasche.  I'd be looking for something to do mostly small pieces (transformer lamination stacks, channel frames, bellends, etc., and maybe an occasional chassis plate, though plating, polishing and powdercoating seem more durable and attractive to me.

So, what do I want to look for in terms of nozzles, what is "double action" vs. "single action",, and I'm about 99% sure I want a compressor instead of propellant cans.  What about paints, clean-up, and all that stuff?  Basically I want something relatively small and lightweight, that has few disposables, and will do a good job.  Quality is more important than budget.

Thanks in advance for anybody who can offer some guidance.

-- Jim

[Yoder]

Jim: Hope this helps.

In a single-action airbrush the trigger only controls the airflow. In a double-action airbrush the trigger controls both the airflow and the paint volume. In general, a double-action airbrush is much more flexible to use than a single-action airbrush.

Gravity fed airbrushes typically have a paint cup on either the top or side of the airbrush. Siphon fed airbrush, also called "Bottom Feed" airbrushes work on the principle of a siphon. There are also some "Hybrid" airbrushes that are a combination of the two. The advantage of a gravity feed airbrush is that it will feed at lower air pressure than a siphon feed brush. The advantage of a siphon feed airbrush is usually quantity.

A long, tapered needle allows the paint to hit the end of the nozzle at a very shallow angle so that it will exit in a narrow cone.  A sharply-shouldered needle will cause the paint to exit the nozzle at a much wider angle.  The difference, obviously, is a trade off between a narrow line and being able to cover large areas. You can also run into problems using ultra-fine needles and nozzles when using paints and other high-viscosity media. Ultra-fine nozzles are usually designed for ink which has a much smaller particle size than paint.

When deciding on what airbrush is right for you, here are a few things to consider:

• Match the airbrush to the intended use.
• If you plan to paint scale models then stay away from airbrushes designed for illustration. They are usually designed for spraying ink and other thin media and may not work properly with paints.
• Plastic Parts.  Avoid plastic airbrushes like the plague.  They break easily, they strip easily when tightening the tips, and in many cases aren't even impervious to the solvents in laquer or enamel paints.
• Solvent Resistance.  Solvents in paints, especially enamels and laquers, can be nasty.  Insure that every part in whatever airbrush you decide on is resistant to solvents.
• Parts availability.  Eventually something on your airbrush is going to break.  If you have to order every part and then wait a week to get it, you might consider something that is more readily available at local stores.  If you have a store in your town that carries everything that Badger or Iwata makes then you might be better served by getting an airbrush that uses parts you can purchase locally.
• Cost.  Cost is important but cost isn't everything.  You can spend $75 for a good airbrush that will last a lifetime or you can spend $50 for a cheap airbrush that is going to have you buying new tips once a week.
• Practice Makes Perfect.  I cannot emphasize enough that the key to good results with an airbrush is practice.  This is the ONLY thing that will make you proficient with your airbrush; there are no shortcuts, there are no ways around it, there is no way to avoid it.

In closing, you get what you pay for. I would definitely go with a compressor since they are so cheap now--I have been eyeing them for a year now.
   
 

[Doc B.]

I'll add that if you are planning to paint chassis panels or bases or other items around the size that you would use a rattle can on, you probably don't want an airbrush. The primary advantage of an airbrush is that they can lay on very thin, tightly controlled lines of paint are for very fine work like scale models and airbrush artwork. What you probably want is the next step up in size, an automotive detailing gun. That is going to lay on a finish at a rate more like you would expect from a rattle can. I have both, and also an inexpensive airbrush that is in between the two in terms of how broad the spray pattern is. The Paasch airbrush and the Craftsman detail gun are both great tools for their given jobs. The cheapo in between Testors airbrush is pretty worthless, too coarse a pattern for fine work and not enough volume for larger stuff. And yeah, for larger items you will want a compressor, not air cans.

[Jim R.]

Thanks gentlemen -- this is just the kind of info I have been looking for.  Time to do some more homework.

Thanks,

Jim