Wanting to build an audio switch for my Crack and other HP amps

mike_b · 3117

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline mike_b

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 9
I want to build a 1-In to 3- or 4-Out RCA audio switch. The closest thing I have found is an old data switch (printer, scanner, etc.). I can't seem to find a rotary switch that will fit the bill. Any suggestions? This is not a powered switch but a pass-thru that will allow me to keep all the amps hooked up without having to switch the cables from my source. All I want to use is a box, 1  female RCA stereo input, a rotary switch, and 3 or 4 female RCA stereo outputs.  I use Mouser since they are down the road but they have four million switches in stock. The key to all this is the switch which allows me to use a common input and be able switch to 3 different outputs. A  brand or part # would help.

Thanks
Mike B.

« Last Edit: April 01, 2013, 07:20:11 AM by mike_b »

Mike B.
Laid Back with Crack and that's a fact, Jack!


Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19750

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline adamct

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 755
  • Maxxximum CAPacity Crack
I've looked into this in the past as well. I first bought a Decware RSB6 (it isn't actually made by Decware, I think they just rebadge it), but I have since switched to a Mapletree Audio Design LR1 and a LR1 Pro. One thing to note is that Lloyd from Mapletree will also create custom versions of the LR1 and LR1 Pro with however many inputs and/or outputs you need. What is shown on the website are his stock versions, but he can create others for a modest additional cost.

RSB6: http://www.decware.com/newsite/rotary.htm
LR1 / LR1 Pro: http://hollowstate.netfirms.com/otherproducts.htm (scroll to bottom)

My chief criticism of the the RSB6 and, to a lesser extent, the LR1 and LR1 Pro is that they are too light. They are relatively flimsy hollow boxes with switches on the front a couple of RCA (or XLR) inputs on the back, and a couple of thin wires connecting the two. I have individual cables that weigh more than the entire switchbox. Even just turning the switch can be enough to tilt the RSB6 on its own. These devices really need to have significant mass added to them so that they are stable and don't slip or slide in usage. But I have zero complaints in terms of sound, functionality or looks.

Best regards,
Adam



Offline mike_b

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 9
Paul, Adam thanks for the links but I really don't want to spend a lot on this. The switch needs to share three RCA outputs with one common RCA input. Basically it is an extension cable with switching capability. Is there such an animal?

Mike B.

Mike B.
Laid Back with Crack and that's a fact, Jack!


Offline adamct

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 755
  • Maxxximum CAPacity Crack
Yes. You want a 3-position, 2-pole switch. See here: http://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Rotary-Switches/_/N-5g2i?P=1z0x3z7Z1z0x3s5

But I'll caution you that: (a) you should plan for more inputs (or outputs) than you think you will need, since these kinds of things are surprisingly useful once you have them, and (b) I'm unconvinced you will save tons of money over a pre-built one. You need to factor in the cost of a decent switch, the case and the RCA jacks. I'll assume you already have hookup wire and solder. You can easily spend upwards of $60-70 just on parts alone. Plus your time to build it...the RSB6 is pretty economical compared to the Goldpoint.

Here is another, much cheaper option: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001F347K/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  Not as convenient as a rotary switch, but it works.



Offline mike_b

  • Newbie
  • *
    • Posts: 9
Adam, I have all the components, but the switch. I realized what I needed about the time you posted. The link is very useful, thanks. You helped to narrow down the Mouser mess. I am connecting just three tube amps so I don't expect to expand upon the current setup. Tired of switching cables.

Mike B.

Mike B.
Laid Back with Crack and that's a fact, Jack!


Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9658
    • Bottlehead
You don't need a switch unless one of the amps has a strangely low input impedance. Just tie all the hots together and all the grounds together.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Paul Joppa

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 5833
And if you still really really want a cheap switch, Radio Shack has always carried a 2-pole 6-throw rotary.

Paul Joppa