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funandfunny20 · 4407

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Offline funandfunny20

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on: January 30, 2014, 08:53:41 PM
Purchased a Stereomour last week.  Until recently, I've been running a pair of Dynaco Mark IIs (which are excellent).  My brother in-law works at a school in Detroit and he grabbed some JBL 375s they were throwing away and gave them to me.  I bought a pair of 077s and some 2205a woofers and had a local guy build me a crossover



Offline kgoss

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Reply #1 on: January 31, 2014, 05:08:07 AM
Don't worry you have purchased a kit with unrivaled build instructions and this forum is awesome in case you need any troubleshooting help.  The friendly folks here include Doc, Paul Joppa, and Paul Birkeland.  So you not only get help from the community, you get help from the folks who designed the circuits.  I am very much a solder by numbers guy, I have no background in electronics and don't pretend to understand what I'm building. All you have to do is follow the instructions carefully. Be sure to read them 2 or 3 times before you complete a step and you won't have any problems. There is a sticky first project recommended tools in Tech Tools you should read.  Take your time and enjoy the build. I bet this won't be your last Bottlehead kit!   ;D

Ken Goss


Offline Paully

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Reply #2 on: January 31, 2014, 05:56:28 AM
Echo what Ken said.  No real technical background here either.  Manuals are the best around, so don't worry there.  It is SO critical that you take your time.  Read twice and solder once, check again.  Then once you have moved on, circle back around and make sure things are correct again.  When looking at a picture, make sure yours looks the same, even taking the time to check other parts you have already soldered that show up in the picture.  If you take your time and don't get diodes and LEDs backwards (been there, done that) you will be in great shape.  Make sure your solder joints are solid and shiny.  Having a meter that beeps helps, I tend to test solder joints as I go along by testing two separate points that the new solder joint connects and making sure I have a good connection.  That can be time consuming, but for a first build it can give you some piece of mind.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #3 on: January 31, 2014, 06:04:07 AM

I have roughly 1 hour of soldering experience.  I know nothing about values and volts

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline funandfunny20

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Reply #4 on: January 31, 2014, 11:05:45 AM
Thanks for all the advice/encouragement! I was already planning on taking my time, but even more so after hearing from you guys.

Any other advice?

One novice question I have is: is there a better type of solder to use?

Anybody else running the stereomour with some vintage JBLs? Would love to hear some feedback!



Offline fullheadofnothing

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Reply #5 on: January 31, 2014, 11:14:08 AM
Use solder with lead. Kester 60/40 or something like that. Do not, for any reason, use plumber's solder. Make sure whatever you get has rosin core flux and is intended for electronics work.

Joshua Harris

I Write the Manuals That Make The Whole World Sing
Kit Packer Emeritus


Offline Moot

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Reply #6 on: February 01, 2014, 05:45:36 PM
Use solder with lead. Kester 60/40 or something like that. Do not, for any reason, use plumber's solder. Make sure whatever you get has rosin core flux and is intended for electronics work.

+1 on the Kester. No-one's ever gone wrong with that stuff.

This time, though, I used this WBT solder. It has a very low melting point and flows beautifully.

http://www.wbtusa.com/pages/0820.html

I bought some Mundorf Silver/Gold Supreme, but I'm not thrilled with it; it needs a lot of heat and needs additional flux in order to flow well. It's stupid-expensive, to boot!




Offline RPMac

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Reply #7 on: February 02, 2014, 05:03:05 AM
Get small dia.  .032"

Tried some Cardas
Liked it a lot



Offline funandfunny20

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Reply #8 on: February 02, 2014, 08:29:25 AM
Thanks for the input!  I think I'll get the Kester solder.  Would 63/37 be better?  And I'll make sure to get small diameter!

I understand the 4 week shipping time



Offline Moot

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Reply #9 on: February 02, 2014, 09:28:31 AM
60/40 is probably ideal. I know we all want our kit to come out as good as possible, but it's usually better to stay with standard equipment.

Solder should only be thought of as a mechanical connection - it shouldn't ever be expected to conduct electricity. It's just there to hold everything in place.

There are a lot of upgrade parts that won't fit without modifying the Stereomour chassis-plate: my Vampire RCA jacks were too big, my Cardas binding-posts were 3mm too wide, my Woo Audio Teflon tube sockets needed the screw holes moved, my DACT attenuator needed its keyhole to be on the opposite side... Might be more...

Don't worry about trying to upgrade the wire used with the kit - it's really high-quality wire, and anything bigger won't work, since some holes have to fit four wires.

I, too, used the Mundorf silver/oil caps to wonderful effect. I just added some bypass-caps to the power supply last night and I didn't find it to make any noticeable difference, but I use a power-regenerator so I wasn't expecting much. I haven't installed those Triad chokes yet but the amp already sounds amazing so I'm not in a rush to try them.

Waiting is surely the hardest part, but boy is it worth it!



Offline RPMac

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Reply #10 on: February 02, 2014, 10:07:47 AM
Remember the Bottlehead Golden Rule

Built it stock!



Offline Doc B.

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Reply #11 on: February 02, 2014, 02:52:53 PM
Yes, 63/37 is a little bit better than 60/40 because it is the eutectic proportion, where both metals melt at the same point.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Moot

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Reply #12 on: February 02, 2014, 03:23:10 PM
Yes, 63/37 is a little bit better than 60/40 because it is the eutectic proportion, where both metals melt at the same point.

I stand corrected, sir!



Offline funandfunny20

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Reply #13 on: February 02, 2014, 07:24:07 PM
Okay, good to know.  I'll try to track some 63/37 locally.


I've been planning on building the amp completely stock until I have more of a soft grasp of what everything does and means.  If the stock Stereomour is an overall better amp to my ears than my dynacos, I'll be a happy man.