Slight hum in left channel

swuuggs · 1919

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Offline swuuggs

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on: March 19, 2014, 01:13:36 PM
So I built my crack probably a week ago, and it sounds great.

First listening session I noticed a slight hum and some crackling, and switched the tube to the other one I had hanging around, and the crackling is gone, but there is still a slight hum that gets louder when the thing warms up. (think I hit the power button, and the hum fades in)

I have reflowed the solder in every joint twice now, and swapped the Black wire from 4 to 22L to 4 to 14U, no dice. Hum is still there.

I'm at a loss for what this could be.

Here are a ton of pictures:

http://imgur.com/a/P91yE

Also, this happens in both my HD555s and HD650s, using an Audioengine D1 as a DAC.

Edit: I am doing the Grounding run through sticky, and will post readings from that here, and hopefully one of you can tell me where I have it wrong.

This was in M ohms, with the black lead touching the chassis, and the tubes in their sockets, with them out of their sockets, these are both 0.
Also, all unlisted values were 0 M ohms, but many of them started at .04 to .10 and went down to 0 after a few seconds.

RCA Sleeve that your wires go into on bottom -

White - .10

Red - .09


Edit 2:

After resoldering all the grounds and plugging the amp into a grounded outlet, I have a new hum, but this one dependent on volume.

Still, as far as I can tell, only in the left ear.




« Last Edit: March 19, 2014, 02:39:25 PM by swuuggs »



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #1 on: March 19, 2014, 02:50:39 PM
You are looking for a short.  If your meter has ranges, use the lowest.  Readings of M Ohms for grounds to the chassis are bad readings.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #2 on: March 19, 2014, 02:56:31 PM
How are your voltages?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline swuuggs

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Reply #3 on: March 19, 2014, 05:26:13 PM
You are looking for a short.  If your meter has ranges, use the lowest.  Readings of M Ohms for grounds to the chassis are bad readings.

I switched to kilo-ohms after the first two, and after that, standard ohms, as I was unaware of what range my multimeter was capable of, but kept getting zeros, which probably has to do with reading from the chassis from the first two, which I then switched to reading from T3 after rereading the sticky.

I can remeasure tomorrow from the start.



Offline swuuggs

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Reply #4 on: March 19, 2014, 05:54:01 PM
How are your voltages?

Just read them:

1 - 85.5
2 - 172.1
3 - 0
4 - 171.9
5 - 85.7
6 - 0
7 - 108.3
8 - 0
9 - 110.1
10 - 0
11 - 0
13 - 0
14 - 171.9
15 - Blew the fuse accidentally bridging the switch and T15 with the lead

Any shot I damaged something blowing the fuse? There was a loud pop and a white spark.

Other than the blown fuse, I'm under the impression those all check out. I of course have more to do.