Strange noise at turn-on, sometimes

tpatton · 3553

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Offline tpatton

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on: September 02, 2010, 04:53:32 AM
This noise lasted a couple of minutes when it first occurred--I was out of the room and thought they were digging up the street outside, or maybe it was World War III starting.  Electronic chaos, hard to describe, neither very high nor very low, mid-range.  I rushed to turn the system off.  I left the S.E.X.amp in the sytem. When the noise occurred next, I saw that it was right channel only.  It was brief that time, and brushing the phono stylus soon after turn-on told me that the amp was normal for a few seconds after it was warmed up enough to play, but that the noise, now identified as right channel only, started up less than a minute after turn-on, lasting only 5 or 10 seconds.  That's been the pattern since that second time, and a tube swap doesn't change it away from the right channel.  Both tubes look normal.  I did resistance checks, and the two channels were very close to identical across the board, though both different a few places, I thought due to the Magnequest transformer/choke upgrade.  Voltage checks with a dummy speaker load seemed useless since I wouldn't know if the malfunction was happening.  I did run the amp briefly with such a load, to see if anything got warm, and only the CL-90 inrush limiter did: it got very slightly warm.  Has anyone had a similar experience with this or another amp?  It's usable, since the noise doesn't seem to pose a threat to my speakers (though for later testing I've hooked it up to less valuable speakers than my Oris 150 horns), but I'd still like to get rid of it, as you call all well imagine.  Thanks for any suggestions to help.



Offline Doc B.

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Reply #1 on: September 02, 2010, 05:37:26 AM
Try rewetting all the solder joints on the noisy channel for starters.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline tpatton

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Reply #2 on: September 02, 2010, 08:33:44 AM
I did as Doc B suggested, which wasn't easy--pretty crowded terminal strips.  The result: the noise lasted much longer than usual, more than a minute, and when it subsided I had no right channel at all.  I've made the problem worse.  I can do resistance checks again to see what damage I may have done.  I'll report again after doing them.  I'm not optimistic.  What's strange is how perfectly the amp performed for a couple of years now, before suddenly going weird on me.  I'm glad I also have a pair of Paramour II's, though the S.E.X. amp was sounding so good that I was never in a hurry to move it out of the system.



Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #3 on: September 02, 2010, 08:46:11 AM
Look on the bright side - a hard-to-diagnose intermittent problem is now much easier to diagnose because it's no longer intermittent!

Resistance and voltage checks (if the resistance checks don't turn anything up) are the natural next steps. The odds are that it's one of the solder joints you just re-heated, or a component directly connected to one of those solder joints.

Consider the chopstick test if the above checks don't turn up anything - poke the solder lugs with an insulated stick while listening. This can often turn up iffy connections and even some kinds of mechanical damage to components.

Paul Joppa


Offline tpatton

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Reply #4 on: September 03, 2010, 07:31:14 AM
I did the resistance checks, and they actually came out better than before.  I get nonstandard results now only from C4 and C5, where I'm reading the diode itself, 356 ohms or close.  But the diode bridge was built nonstandardly, on the terminal strip, by the original builder (not me).  (He was trying to improve on the manual, and may have succeeded.)  So that's unimportant, surely.  Voltage checks next.  I did see "the bright side" that Paul J mentions--voltage checks will now show something, or may.  I'll report in due course.



Offline tpatton

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Reply #5 on: September 04, 2010, 05:38:24 AM
With no fondness for voltage checks, I decided to wet solder joints again first, this time doing it better.  It worked!  My right channel is back, no ugly noises, all seems to be well.  A nice feature of this problem is that it was probably the original builder's solder joint that went bad.  When I got the amp, I did the Magnequest iron upgrade, replaced the volume pot by a pair of 100K ohms resistors, put in a pair of my favorite Mundorf M-Lytic "double caps", bypassed by Multicap RTX film caps, but the great majority of the solder joints weren't mine.  Not that mine have never proved bad in the past.  Anyway, the total right channel recovery is a great relief.  Paul J and Doc B, I appreciate your prompt willingness to help me on this: many thanks!