After installing Speedball, only one half of the tube heats up [resolved]

FruityPlasmid · 3528

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Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #15 on: April 17, 2018, 02:24:52 PM
To add to the wisdom of Doc B, the only components that you could possibly damage from excess soldering are the LEDs.  They don't need a ton of heat/solder for a proper joint, but feel free to cook the rest of the parts as much as you need to get the solder to flow into the board.

For each board hole, there's actually plating in the hole, so the solder will eventually flow down into these plated holes and that's how you'll end up with really good joints. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #16 on: April 17, 2018, 02:49:26 PM
reinstalling the smaller board gives me:

OA - 78
IA - 157.7
B-A/B - 0
IB - 155.1
OB - 45.3

The led on D1 on B side doesn't turn on
« Last Edit: April 17, 2018, 03:34:23 PM by FruityPlasmid »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #17 on: April 18, 2018, 04:45:07 AM
OK, the resoldering has brought OA back.  Can you send us the "after" photos of the small board? 


Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #18 on: April 18, 2018, 07:22:03 AM
here you go



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #19 on: April 18, 2018, 07:28:22 AM
The B side transistors are still not all the way soldered.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #20 on: April 18, 2018, 02:20:51 PM
I am having a really hard time getting it to move, ill keep trying, but any recommendations



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #21 on: April 18, 2018, 02:25:27 PM
Heat and time will make the solder flow.  Do you have at least a 30W iron?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #22 on: April 19, 2018, 01:28:10 PM
After so much time i did it, and it still acts up

OA - 77.4
IA - 158.7
B-A/B - 0
IB - 158.8
OB - 46.6

I think i broke the LED on D1 side B
« Last Edit: April 19, 2018, 05:32:55 PM by FruityPlasmid »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #23 on: April 20, 2018, 03:34:02 AM
Your LEDs looked to be properly soldered, but not so much the transistors.

If you look in the last photo, the leg of Q1B closes to R1 didn't have solder passing all the way through the hole in the PC board.

I would suggest ordering up some replacement LEDs and taking a breather on this project for a few days while they are in transit.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #24 on: April 20, 2018, 10:45:31 AM
I had some LEDs to spare (bought them previously for the Stock Crack) and it worked fine
 
OA - 77
IA - 181
B-A/B - 0
IB - 181
OB - 81

But now the big board is acting weird

OA - 144
OB - 213
G - 0
B+ - 213



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #25 on: April 20, 2018, 10:53:31 AM
Can you pop the big board out and send a photo of the bottom?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #26 on: April 20, 2018, 11:03:47 AM
Here you go



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #27 on: April 20, 2018, 11:06:12 AM
These are still not heated enough.  Can you snap a shot of the specs of your solder iron and the solder you're using? 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline FruityPlasmid

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Reply #28 on: April 20, 2018, 11:14:45 AM
Tabiger Soldering Iron Kit 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature

Temperature ranges from 200 C to 450 C

The solder im using is AlphaFry Rosin Core 40/60



Offline kgoss

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Reply #29 on: April 20, 2018, 11:24:34 AM
This may be a dumb question but are you keeping the tip clean with something like a damp sponge?

Ken Goss