Low staticky crackle on right channel (solved)

Julyan9 · 7379

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Offline Julyan9

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on: July 02, 2018, 04:03:49 AM
Hello!
I finished the crack around a week ago. I absolutely love it. My problem is that after a few days of listening a slight cracking sound appeared on the right channel. I have re-soldered all the connections, and there were some bad ones on 3L, 1L, the grounding point near the power inlet and the 2 black wire meeting point on the headphone jack.
At first I thought I solved the issue when I soldered the grounding jack and I didnt hear the crackling anymore. I then added the speedball but the noice was there again. Then I left the amp on for 8 hours, and when I woke up the sound was a lot louder than before, it was very prominent. I had to go to work so didnt have time to chopstick it at the time. Then after the amp had been on continously for 16 hours there was no noise again when I was starting to debug it. I wait for a couple of hours and its there again but its very silent and it comes and goes so its hard to test what connection might be making the sound. Only time something changed when I was poking the connections, was when I found the loose connection on the headphone jack. I tried to scotchbrite the 12au7 pins but that didnt help either. I ordered a new 12au7 to see if it helps. Sometimes the crackling varies when I poke the 12au7 and sometimes it doesnt so I dont know if that is the cause or not. I have gone over the solderings over so many times now that I dont know where to go with that. Any tips on certain points I should re-check one more time?

Also the crackling doesnt happen right after I turn on the amp but it comes and goes after the amp has been warming for a while. Volume pot position doesnt affect the intensity of the sound. 

Thanks for any tips. 

edit.// To add I'm using Computer->R2R-11 dac output->Crack->HD600. I have tried it with a different cable to the HD600 and with G4me zero senn gaming headset and the same thing happens. The sound was first coming from the left channel, but im pretty sure that I didnt have the hd600 connected the right way when I first used it.  IT would be weird for the sound to jump to other channel after some re-soldering wouldnt it?
« Last Edit: July 20, 2018, 12:50:04 AM by Julyan9 »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: July 02, 2018, 04:06:46 AM
It might help if you can post some photos of your build. 

This is indeed almost always a solder joint not doing its job.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Julyan9

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Reply #2 on: July 02, 2018, 04:52:49 AM
Its surprisingly difficult to take photos of components. I first tried with my dslr but that wasnt going to happen.
Noticed that B1 needs some more solder for sure.
« Last Edit: July 02, 2018, 04:55:31 AM by Julyan9 »



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #3 on: July 02, 2018, 04:56:19 AM
A little more solder and more heat will get those to flow out properly and I think your noise will go away.  I'd also go through and trim and leads that are poking out.  I've circled three in this photo that could cause some serious problems down the road.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Julyan9

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Reply #4 on: July 02, 2018, 05:12:04 AM
Yeah I will fix those tomorrow. I'll also add solder to B1 and see if it helps any. My iron just broke on its own so I have to get a new one :( I didn't trim all the leads yet because the pliers I'm using are bad and I can't fit to that narrow place with them.



Offline Deluk

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Reply #5 on: July 03, 2018, 12:46:46 AM
Pliers? You need a pair of "flush cutters", check Google images. Pay a little more for extra life and reliable cutting. The ones with black "flat" blades are usually very sharp but prone to breaking off a blade if try and cut something a bit too thick.



Offline Julyan9

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Reply #6 on: July 03, 2018, 01:43:58 AM
Pliers? You need a pair of "flush cutters", check Google images. Pay a little more for extra life and reliable cutting. The ones with black "flat" blades are usually very sharp but prone to breaking off a blade if try and cut something a bit too thick.

Yeah sorry english is not my first language, i meant flush cutters. I took the amp with me to work and used the gear there to go over all the solders and then used some ESD flush cutters to trim the leads as short as I could. For some reason I think the amp sounds a bit better now and I have not been able to hear the crackling sound anymore. Ill give it this evening and see if it appears again.



Offline Julyan9

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Reply #7 on: July 03, 2018, 07:37:15 AM
I think the origin of the sound may be the A3 connection. I think its the only tab i have forgotten to redo. The sound appeared when i took a toothpick next to the led and while poking at the connections a2-a5 region.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #8 on: July 03, 2018, 07:41:17 AM
The A3 connection looked OK in your photos.  The center pin of the 9 pin socket might be a different story though.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Julyan9

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Reply #9 on: July 03, 2018, 07:58:08 AM
I re-did the center pin but now that I looked at it again I think the black wire could use some more solder. Maybe poking at the lower A connections move the center pin and that makes the sound. I will be wiser tomorrow. Thank you for tips and help.



Offline Julyan9

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Reply #10 on: July 04, 2018, 02:50:50 AM
Now after some re-flowing on the smaller tube socket, the sound is now coming from left channel instead of right. So i did something right and something wrong while doing this. Still same channel. The sound is always more prominent when poking around the socket, I just dont know what more to do about it. Surely the issue is in that region since poking the connections makes the sound happen.
« Last Edit: July 04, 2018, 05:11:46 AM by Julyan9 »



Offline kgoss

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Reply #11 on: July 04, 2018, 03:05:14 AM
Post another picture. Today is the 4th of July holiday in the US so you might not get a reply from the Bottlehead team today.

Try wriggling the wires one at a time going to the 9 pin socket to see if you can identify one that is causing the issue. It’s possible to nick a wire when stripping which later breaks just under the insulation. That could be your problem if one wire causes the problem but it’s well soldered to the socket.

Beyond that be patient and wait for the BH team to respond.

Ken Goss


Offline Julyan9

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Reply #12 on: July 04, 2018, 05:13:57 AM
I detached the black wire coming from the potentiometer to the center pin and replaced it, didnt help, poked some more and A3 might have been making some noice. now there is a slight hiss on left channel that wasnt there before. right channel still doing the same thing as before.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #13 on: July 04, 2018, 05:48:29 AM
The wire at A6 should be bent around the terminal and resoldered as well.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Julyan9

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Reply #14 on: July 04, 2018, 07:00:33 AM
I changed the red wire also going to A6 and properly crimped it over but that didnt help either. I've been putting off fixing A9 cos I think I need to remove the center black wire to make room. Attached a pic of the small socket
« Last Edit: July 04, 2018, 07:12:11 AM by Julyan9 »