Incorrect voltages and 1 LED not lit on Speedball [resolved]

ghostyjack · 1942

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline ghostyjack

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 20
I've been running the standard Crack for a while now, but decided to install the Speedball upgrade.

After fitting the first PCB I did the voltage check and got got the following voltages.

OA:     76v
IA:      181v
B-A/B: 238v
IB:      181v
OB:     55v

Also, the LED immediately under IB does not light.

Also, before starting the upgrade, I forgot all about a noise I was getting from the amp that became a loud pop when I twisted the headphone jack in the jack socket. Suspect that was a bad joint but forgot to look for it before starting the upgrade.

Could the original issue I had be what is causing this Speedball issues?
« Last Edit: October 01, 2018, 04:23:11 AM by Caucasian Blackplate »



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19772
Reply #1 on: September 23, 2018, 04:40:23 AM
Yes, I would consider it very likely that these are related.

When you examine the black wires entering the headphone jack, are they all well soldered, or perhaps is there one that's loose and one that's well soldered?

It would also possibly help to see some photos of the top and bottom of the small PC board, just to be sure that everything is looking OK there.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ghostyjack

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 20
Reply #2 on: September 23, 2018, 05:49:28 AM
I found the dry joint, it was a black wire in the jack socket. I re-flowed it and not it is attached not.

I retook the voltages and have these now:

OA:     80v
IA:      182v
B-A/B: 0v
IB:      182v
OB:     55v

I still have one LED not lit though.



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19772
Reply #3 on: September 23, 2018, 05:53:09 AM
Do both LEDs on the 9 pin socket light up?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ghostyjack

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 20
Reply #4 on: September 23, 2018, 05:56:00 AM
yes



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19772
Reply #5 on: September 23, 2018, 05:58:50 AM
What voltages do you have at A3 and A2?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ghostyjack

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 20
Reply #6 on: September 23, 2018, 06:04:15 AM
Both are about 0v.



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19772
Reply #7 on: September 23, 2018, 06:07:10 AM
Reviewing your photos, you have a backwards transistor.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ghostyjack

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 20
Reply #8 on: September 23, 2018, 06:11:25 AM
Ahh, Yep, I see it.

Q1B?



Offline ghostyjack

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 20
Reply #9 on: September 23, 2018, 06:19:31 AM
Well I can't see how I can desolder 3 legs at once.

Looks like I may need to cut it off and buy a new one.l



Offline ghostyjack

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 20
Reply #10 on: September 23, 2018, 06:26:11 AM
Do PN2907A only come in one type? Or do I need to look for some specific version?



Offline Leland Hankins

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 42
Reply #11 on: September 23, 2018, 06:28:22 AM
Do you not have some solder wick?  With solder wick you can remove the solder one leg at a time, or if you are good at soldering all three legs at once.
« Last Edit: September 23, 2018, 06:30:15 AM by Leland Hankins »



Offline oguinn

  • Global Moderator
  • Sr. Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 896
Reply #12 on: September 23, 2018, 06:29:43 AM
Yeah, or a solder sucker. The Japanese one I bought does an excellent job at removing molten solder

Jameson O'Guinn

-

Main System: Schiit Bifrost MB, Rega Planar 6 with Exact cartridge, Eros 2, BeePre, Kaiju/Stereomour II, Jagers, Mainline

Desktop System: Crack with Speedball


Offline ghostyjack

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 20
Reply #13 on: September 23, 2018, 06:32:40 AM
I have some, but never used it before, always used a solder pump, but that doesn't seem to be working on it.

I'll try the wick and see if that helps.



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19772
Reply #14 on: September 23, 2018, 07:17:37 AM
A spring-loaded desoldering pump (not the kind with the squeeze bulb) will suck the solder right out of the hole.  You just have to heat the top of the board and suck the solder out from the bottom.

Any old PN2907 will do the job.  If you can get the one out that you have, it should take the heat without receiving any damage, and being installed backwards also shouldn't destroy it. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man