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August 18, 2019, 06:15:51 AM

Author Topic: Shunt regulator readings  (Read 626 times)

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Offline PS2500

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Re: Shunt regulator readings
« Reply #30 on: July 04, 2019, 01:19:31 AM »
Quote
I know this isn't the most helpful suggestion, but honestly I would go back over each individual step in building and installing that PC board.

Actually, it probably is the most helpful suggestion. But I want to make sure I understand correctly - go over each step means to check, or to physically rebuild? If you mean checking each component, in order of installation, I will do that first.

And if that doesn't go anywhere, I am actually ready to rebuild this section from scratch, assuming it wouldn't cost a fortune. I know you said that a new board wouldn't necessarily solve the problem, but what about a new board and replacing most of the components? I assume that any resistors which check out can be considered undamaged, but I did wonder about transistors. (And I don't know how to check them either.)

If, for example, I can just replace some or all of those components for the shunt regulator and install them on a new board, using new wire for all the connections, I'd rather spend a little money (within reason) on that, because as long as the power supply section shows no problems when I retest it, the rebuild of the board with new components ought to resolve the issue. Can I safely assume it's nothing to do with the tube? Or the socket?

I'm far from considering sending it in, because it's not even one-third built yet, so there aren't that many steps to retrace. Concerning new components, if I do that it would be more convenient for me to put together an order through Mouser or Digikey in Japan - are there any particular pitfalls versus getting replacement parts from Bottlehead?
« Last Edit: July 04, 2019, 02:25:03 AM by PS2500 »

Online Paul Birkeland

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Re: Shunt regulator readings
« Reply #31 on: July 04, 2019, 06:19:07 AM »
I would recheck all of your building steps, not actually rebuild everything from scratch. 

While there is a 1 in a million chance that you have a bad component, the more likely scenario is that there is a bad solder joint or a mistake in the build. 
Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man