Switch either not working or I am doing something wrong? [resolved]

jroevens · 626

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Offline jroevens

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Hi there,

I just recently got my kit in the mail.  I am on the step where it asks to test the switch.  "Use your meter to test the switch. It should read low resistance in the "on" position, and
overlimit in the "off" position."  When I test the switch nothing happens in either position.  I made sure the switch is not damaged or melted in anyway.  I've tried using a couple different multi meters with the same result.  any advice?   
« Last Edit: December 02, 2019, 04:15:35 PM by Paul Birkeland »



Deke609

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Reply #1 on: December 01, 2019, 07:09:42 PM
What resistance reading do you get? OL (over limit) or close to 0 ohms?

cheers, Derek



Offline jroevens

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Reply #2 on: December 02, 2019, 03:01:27 AM
I get OL on both on and off position.  Its almost like nothing is happening though.  The meter doesn't do anything so I am thinking I have a bad switch? or maybe its because I have an auto ranging multi meter?  Thanks for the help!



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #3 on: December 02, 2019, 05:28:06 AM
What happens when you touch the meter probes together? 

It's very unlikely that the switch is bad. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jroevens

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Reply #4 on: December 02, 2019, 08:04:11 AM
When I touch the leads together it reads .1 so I think the meter is working. It's a cheap meter though. I made sure that I didn't burn anything when soldering the wires to it. I just don't want to move forward if I need to change the switch. Is there any other way to test the switch?



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #5 on: December 02, 2019, 10:00:53 AM
You can move forward in the manual (I'm not sure which kit this is since this is posted in the general forum) and just keep in mind that if the switch isn't working, you won't get any AC or DC voltages.

The switches aren't all that hard to melt, but if they melt the solder lugs will feel a little loose.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jroevens

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Reply #6 on: December 02, 2019, 03:30:09 PM
I guess I should have mentioned it is the basic crack kit.  No speedball for now.  I got to the point where I test the incoming voltage from a wall outlet and everything worked out great there.  I am gonna just say its my cheap meter having some resistance issues.  I will get it all put together and see how everything works from there.  I triple checked the lugs for any damage and everything looks great.  Thank you all for your help.  I am a noob at all of this meter stuff.    8)



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #7 on: December 02, 2019, 03:32:31 PM
If your transformer tests go OK, then the switch is working.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline jroevens

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Reply #8 on: December 02, 2019, 04:12:54 PM
Thank you Paul.  Thanks again for all your help.

-Jarrett



Offline EricS

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Just a suggestion: is the battery in your meter new?  This can make all of the difference in the world.  Digital circuits behave in somewhat random ways when voltage gets "too low."

Silly side note: I always thought "OL" on a meter stood for "open loop."   ???

Eric

Haven't electrocuted myself yet...   
There are ALWAYS User Serviceable Parts Inside!


Online Doc B.

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It's possible that you weren't getting good contact of the meter tips to the tabs of the switch. Some times it's worthwhile to rub the test lead tips against the terminal you are testing to burnish the surface a little and make sure you have the a really clean contact surface. Manufacturing processes can sometimes leave a little non-conductive coating on a terminal. Years ago this was sometimes an issue with the rocker switches we used. I don't recall anyone having the problem in recent years, but it's possible that is what happened here. Once you soldered the wires the contaminant may have cooked off.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.