Hello,
I bought the crack plus speedball years ago (speedball is 3 board design), and at the time I made the crack, everything checked out, and I attempted the speedball upgrade, but failed, got nervous, and reverted it to the original crack, which I've been listening to for years.
**I also made the mistake of mounting the heat sinks and TIP50's upside down**
I decided it's time to upgrade to the speedball and see what all the fuss is about (even though I love the crack on its own).
Right now my voltages are (I'll put ideal voltages in parenthesis for ease of reference):
T1: 85 (75)
T2: 232 (170)
T4: 232 (170)
T5: 82 (75)
T7: 213 (100)
T9: 213 (100)
T13: 232 (170)
T15: 235 (185)
T18: 94 (?)
T19: 90 (0)
T21: 238 (206)
input tube seems pretty normal aside from
a1: 82 (75)
a6: 82 (75)
power tube:
b1: 82 (75)
b2: 232 (170)
b3: 211 (100)
b4: 82 (75)
b5: 231 (170)
b6: 212 (100)
I've attached photos. I would think there would be pretty much a single problem, as everything is flowing normally, but the voltages are just too high... I'm not THAT familiar with circuitry that I can really sort this out myself. Aside from the upside down heat sinks and tip50's, I think everything is connected properly. I replaced the transistors on the speedball board as well, because one of them seemed to be not working, but they're both new and working now. The small boards both have 2 470ohm resistors connected in parallel, which gives a resistance of 235 instead of 237, as my local shop didn't have 237 ohm resistors.
LED's light up everywhere except they are dimmer / or not on on the big speedball board.
I've been checking solders and connections for the past two days and am pretty much out of ideas, except switching that main board around. But that's a pain in the ass I'd rather avoid, if it's just a matter of a malfunctioning capacitor or something like that.
Voltage from power cord is 123.6 if that matters.
Thanks in advance for any help anybody can offer!
