Right channel noisy. Help troubleshooting

[Paul Birkeland]

Why don't you heat up the solder joint that holds one end in and pop one lead out, then measure the resistor that way.

[denti alligator]

I’m not getting a reading at all now (having detached one end).

[Paul Birkeland]

OK, I would replace that part then.  One possible reason this could happen is inserting the 2A3 tube on that side without the fat pins on the tube aligned with the fat pins on the socket, which could allow a direct connection between B+ and the cathode resistors, which would also possibly cause some swelling of the top of the 220uF cap mounted in that area.  Otherwise it would be very abnormal for a part like that to just randomly open up.

[denti alligator]

I haven’t switched out (let alone taken out) the tubes in over a year. And it was working fine just a few weeks ago. Strange. Does it matter what brand I use? I can get some TOUHIA ones on amazon by Tuesday, which would be nice.
https://www.amazon.com/TOUHIA-Wirewound-Ceramic-Resistor-Inductionless/dp/B07VRBRTVX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ZG6I62U7OBAR&keywords=Resistor+2k+5w&qid=1639934974&sprefix=resistor+2k+5w%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-3

[Paul Birkeland]

Sure, those will work.  If the leads don't reach the terminal strips you can just wrap them around the remaining 3K resistor.

The brand isn't so important because the AC signal current is almost completely handled by the cathode bypass cap.

[denti alligator]

Great, thanks. So I won’t need to replace the right channel resistor to match?

Here’s the cap I nicked. Will this be a problem?

Actually, I have a pair of Solen 3.30uF/700V and another pair of Solen 0.10uF 630V caps. I forget where these were supposed to go (and without the manual this is hard to tell). I assume the former could replace the nicked cap and its pair? And the other would go on the PC board where the Daytons are?

[Paul Birkeland]

I would replace that Solen, yes.  You do not need to replace the other 2K resistor, as I said before, these are almost entirely out of the signal path.

I would do the least possible amount of messing around until you get the amp up and running properly again.  If you go to put the 0.1uF Solen caps on the regulator board and that modification causes new problems, it will make debugging a lot more difficult. 

[denti alligator]

OK, but just to confirm (sorry, again, I don’t have the manual on me), the 3.3uF would go to where that nicked cap is?

I’ll wait off on the regular board cap upgrade.

[Paul Birkeland]

If you twist the melted cap over, it should say 3.3uF on it, and yes, that's where that part goes.

[denti alligator]

If you twist the melted cap over, it should say 3.3uF on it, and yes, that's where that part goes.

Sorry, I have Clarity Caps here and the markings have faded.

Thanks for all your help! I’ll report back when I get the replacement resistor in Tuesday.

[denti alligator]

New resistor installed.

Terminal 15 now reads 1176. Not balanced with the right side, but should this be okay?

[Paul Birkeland]

That is in spec.

[denti alligator]

Thought so. But now I’m not getting sound out of either channel. Will post voltages in a moment.

[denti alligator]

I was hoping to get the manual first, but Dan accidentally sent me the manual for the filament upgrade. While I’m waiting I’ll just check the voltages anyway. Which of the ones listed above are off? Maybe I can compare to that list and post just the problem readings.

[Paul Birkeland]

Just posting the voltages on each 4 pin socket would provide a lot of information.