What can I expect from a Dynaco ST-70?

mediumjim · 30413

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Offline mediumjim

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Reply #30 on: January 01, 2011, 04:01:05 PM
I love good passionate discussions...

Don't you think that if the Selenium/Quad Cap made it this far that it did so for a good reason?  As I said in one of my posts, I probably will do a selenium bypass and drop a new can in it, but only after listening to it.   I have full faith (right now) in the guy who did the work on it as he has good rep...if it was out of spec, he would have dealt with it.  

Jim

Note:  The Quad Cap Can was replaced for one that was tested and was in spec, the Black Cats tested in spec,  bias caps were replaced.  The only thing that has not been addressed (per the concerns) is the Selenium Rectifier and I will consider replacing it with a silcon diode say a 1N4004 or of higher value.   
« Last Edit: January 01, 2011, 05:24:52 PM by mediumjim »

Marantz Model 9's Bottlehead FP2 AH!Tjoeb 99
Dynaco ST-70 McIntosh MX-110 Rotel RCD1072
KEF 104/2 B&W ASW300 Subs
Dynaco A-150 University Medallion XII


Offline mediumjim

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Reply #31 on: January 02, 2011, 02:42:32 PM
Just to put it to rest, I'm having Carl replace the Selenium Rectifier with a Silicon Diode before he ships it to me.  As I posted already, the Quad Cap Can is in proper spec as are the Black Cat's.  

I already have a space made for it and will be using the Meadowlark Swifts as they have the sweetest mids and highs.  They have Vifa 5.5" drivers and 1" Soft Dome Tweeters that can reach down to 35hz  (with a 4db rolloff) and being 8ohm and 89db should be able to get to pretty impressive sound levels with the ST-70.  

Jim
« Last Edit: January 02, 2011, 03:53:12 PM by mediumjim »

Marantz Model 9's Bottlehead FP2 AH!Tjoeb 99
Dynaco ST-70 McIntosh MX-110 Rotel RCD1072
KEF 104/2 B&W ASW300 Subs
Dynaco A-150 University Medallion XII


Offline 2wo

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Reply #32 on: January 03, 2011, 04:01:24 PM
Glad to hear that you are going with the diode. 0 down side and it may save you an expensive quad of outputs someday...John

John S.


Offline mediumjim

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Reply #33 on: January 03, 2011, 05:05:08 PM
2wo:

I agree, it is a smart move.  It may or may not change the tone, but as you say, if it goes it will do damage, especially to the output tubes.   As you may have already surmised, I fancy nice tubes. 

It will be interesting to compare it to my Marantz 9's.  It should be no contest, but that's what I thought when I A/B'd my Upgraded FP2 against my serviced and aligned McIntosh MX-110 and the FP was the clear winner. 

It's nice that I still get thrills and excitement over this stuff and hope I will always!  I admire you guys that actually understand the insides and can work and design upgrades.   Some day I might attempt building a kit or two....but I need to practice on my soldering skills first! 

Jim

Marantz Model 9's Bottlehead FP2 AH!Tjoeb 99
Dynaco ST-70 McIntosh MX-110 Rotel RCD1072
KEF 104/2 B&W ASW300 Subs
Dynaco A-150 University Medallion XII


Offline mediumjim

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Reply #34 on: January 06, 2011, 03:20:50 PM
Okay, one of my good friends has a great collection of NOS Vacuum Tubes and sold me a tightly matched quad of EL34/6CA7's  Two are branded Haltron and have welded plates and two small halo getters.  The other pair are RCA (Mullards) from 1970 that also have welded plates with a single large halo getter.  They tested 7400 7600 7700 7700, well above New.  They are also very tight ma wise 25.5 to 27ma...I believe they were tested on a Hickok 539A.   

This is the same guy who I got an octet for my Marantz 9's.  My justification is that if I ever need a tube for the Marantz's, I will have some to pull from the Dynaco and put something back into the Dynaco.  I have mixed double/single getter Mullards in my Marantz's and they sound great.   The plan for the Dynaco is to have one of each on each side. 

I should have it some time next week and really am getting excited about it...

Jim

Marantz Model 9's Bottlehead FP2 AH!Tjoeb 99
Dynaco ST-70 McIntosh MX-110 Rotel RCD1072
KEF 104/2 B&W ASW300 Subs
Dynaco A-150 University Medallion XII


Offline mediumjim

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Reply #35 on: January 14, 2011, 06:39:32 AM
I've had the Dynaco ST-70 for several days now and all the adjustments and set-up tweaks have been done. 

I rolled in a NOS matched quad of Mullard made xf2 EL34's, a NOS set of Sylvania 7199's and used a tests very stong 1957 metal base Amperex GZ34.   The bias point is 1.50v (sounds the best there).  I had to adjust the new powered subwoofer several times to get it to a place where it was perfectly integrated with the Meadowlark Swifts.  It takes several hours for a new speaker to break in and do its thing...

Last night was the pinnacle (so far), so it all came together and wonderful music was coming out of my new system.  The beauty is that as the tubes burn in, it will only get better!  Right now the Soundstage is every bit as nice as I get from my Marantz 9's.  There are subtle differences in instrument placement and depth.   

I love my Marantz 9's and they sound great and deserve their place in history as being one of the best amps ever.  At the same time, I also have to say that the Dynaco ST-70 is truly a great amp in its own rights. 

The 50's were a great time for Tube Amp Design and many simply cannot be improved upon IMHO.

Jim

Marantz Model 9's Bottlehead FP2 AH!Tjoeb 99
Dynaco ST-70 McIntosh MX-110 Rotel RCD1072
KEF 104/2 B&W ASW300 Subs
Dynaco A-150 University Medallion XII


Offline Doc B.

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Reply #36 on: January 14, 2011, 07:17:13 AM

The 50's were a great time for Tube Amp Design and many simply cannot be improved upon IMHO.


I think you might be pleasantly surprised to find that some current single ended designs can show improved resolution over the classic push pull amps.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline corndog71

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Reply #37 on: January 14, 2011, 02:23:37 PM
I would also recommend the Dynaco Doctor as an excellent reference.  I've rebuilt an ST70 with Joe Curcio's boards and a new PT from Dynakitparts and it turned into a very seductive amp.

Last year I finally finished building a brand spanking new pair of Mark IV's.  Dynakitparts makes a really nice looking chassis.

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi576.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss207%2Fcorndog642%2FDynaco-Curcio%2520Mk%2520IV%2FIMG_2424.jpg&hash=33fbdca6b0099061549b90d1f0a2472b46026a3d)


The world was made for those not cursed with self-awareness.

Rob


Offline mediumjim

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Reply #38 on: January 15, 2011, 04:30:25 PM

The 50's were a great time for Tube Amp Design and many simply cannot be improved upon IMHO.


I think you might be pleasantly surprised to find that some current single ended designs can show improved resolution over the classic push pull amps.

Doc B.:

I have no doubt that SET amps have improved dramatically.  However, I do run my Marantz 9's in triode mode and they are pretty awesome.

My next system will be SET.

Marantz Model 9's Bottlehead FP2 AH!Tjoeb 99
Dynaco ST-70 McIntosh MX-110 Rotel RCD1072
KEF 104/2 B&W ASW300 Subs
Dynaco A-150 University Medallion XII


Offline mediumjim

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Reply #39 on: January 15, 2011, 04:36:24 PM
I would like to address the comments regarding the Quad Can as being a ticking time bomb.  There will tell tale things such as hum or white powder  residue leaking from the bottom of can.  If your Dynaco ST-70 is quiet and has a nice soundfloor, it is fine.  Moreover, there's a 3A Slo Blo fuse to protect the Iron and Tubes.

Jim

Marantz Model 9's Bottlehead FP2 AH!Tjoeb 99
Dynaco ST-70 McIntosh MX-110 Rotel RCD1072
KEF 104/2 B&W ASW300 Subs
Dynaco A-150 University Medallion XII


Offline JC

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Reply #40 on: January 15, 2011, 05:28:22 PM
Yes, indeed.  I may have already mentioned, I replaced the quad cap in mine primarily because a new one was available with slightly improved specs, and I really didn't have a way to test the existing one at working Voltage.  As far as I know, the original is still a working part and had exhibited no sign of failure after 40+ years.

I would hazard a guess that the longevity may depend on its lifetime: If it got regular use, it probably stands a better chance than one which sat for years without a charge.  I had no idea which might describe mine, so I took the precaution of bringing it up very slowly over a period of many days with a Variac and a solid-state replacement in the rectifier socket so that it started getting Voltage at a very low level relative to a vacuum tube rectifier.

I have no idea if this was necessary, but the cap appeared to work very well.

I am happy to hear you are enjoying your ST-70; mine has brought me many hours of pleasure.

Jim C.


Offline mediumjim

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Reply #41 on: January 16, 2011, 11:23:57 AM
Grainger:

It behooves anyone with a nice system to some sort of power management system as well as a spike filter.  I have a Furman that keep my current coming in at 117v...I can adjust it to 112v which is the standard back when most of my gear was made.  Then I have a Belkin Surge Protector to assure no nasty spikes. 

Jim

Marantz Model 9's Bottlehead FP2 AH!Tjoeb 99
Dynaco ST-70 McIntosh MX-110 Rotel RCD1072
KEF 104/2 B&W ASW300 Subs
Dynaco A-150 University Medallion XII


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #42 on: January 16, 2011, 12:40:50 PM
The Stereo 70 instruction manual describes the transformer as a 120V model.  Makes the incoming voltage point moot.  
« Last Edit: January 20, 2011, 01:10:31 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline mediumjim

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Reply #43 on: January 16, 2011, 02:45:54 PM
The Stereo 70 instruction manual describes the transformer as a 120V model.  Makes the incoming voltage point moot.  Did you check with Terry?

Grainger, if my memory serves me well, current flowed at about 112v in the 60's, while the specifications for the transformers was 120v, 112v was what was being drawn back in the day.  Just for the record, I have my voltage set at 120v on my Furman. 

Jim
« Last Edit: January 17, 2011, 04:56:25 AM by mediumjim »

Marantz Model 9's Bottlehead FP2 AH!Tjoeb 99
Dynaco ST-70 McIntosh MX-110 Rotel RCD1072
KEF 104/2 B&W ASW300 Subs
Dynaco A-150 University Medallion XII


Offline JC

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Reply #44 on: January 19, 2011, 08:57:02 AM
When I was running my ST-70 up on the Variac after just acquiring it, I kept a DC Volt meter clipped to the first cap section on the can capacitor; even at 130 VAC input to the amp, I did not exceed the WVDC rating of the first section on the original cap.  Nor, did I ever exceed the WVDC rating on the subsequent sections of the cap.

When I spoke of not being equipped to check the cap at working Voltage, I should have been more explicit in indicating that I was referring to checking it for capacitance values at working Voltage.  Again, I had no evidence that the capacitance values weren't up to spec, I just had no way to check them.

We all think of AC line Voltage back in the day as being lower than what we receive today, and perhaps, generally speaking, that may be true.  In reality, though, they could also run considerably higher, especially out in the sticks.  I'm guessing that designers of the era took that into account.  IIRC, DeWalt designed their radial arm saws to run properly on a range of input Voltages from below 100 VAC to upwards of 150 VAC at the top end, precisely because they had them in the city and the countryside, and were aware that the actual Voltages delivered at various times of the day in various venues could be all over the map; so, they designed for an approximation of worst case, based on the available data.

I suspect Dyna built in similar safety margins for their designs, since they intended them to run anywhere as well.

Again, after bringing it up over a period of about 10 days on the Variac, mine ran perfectly on my line Voltage of 125 VAC for many weeks before I replaced the can cap.

Jim C.