safest and easiest to use, dry and dispose wood finish

[mete]

I am a total noob in wood working and have no particular equipment or space for it too. I would prefer to not do anything with the wood frame, but I guess it is needed for the health of the wood. I saw the video showing the use of danish oil. Is there something else, better or similar that I can use just for the sake of protecting the wood ? Natural wood look is perfectly fine for me, so I do not care much to change it, but I care how easy to apply and dry the oil/finish safely (inside an apartment etc.).

Thanks!

[caffeinator]

I have used a lot of finishes over the years but have recently settled on a combination of dye, shellac and oil that I think is easy, safe and produces good results.

I don't know what your safety concerns are, but I think about the toxicity or flammability of the materials, and the amount of fumes produced and for how long. I have started using clothing dye as a stain (RIT Dye, which one can acquire at grocery, variety or fabric/sewing/hobby stores) for a stain, though I still occasionally use oil-based stains since I still have a lot on hand. The RIT Dye has no odor that I can detect, is easy to apply and very forgiving. If the result isn't quite right, it can be removed or lightened with light sanding, darkened with additional applications, dries quickly and is inexpensive. I believe this dye is non-toxic, but recommend reading the label. Wear gloves, because it dies everything, including skin.

I usually follow the stain with a few layers of shellac. Shellac is also easy to use and very forgiving. It dries very quickly. Quick drying allows multiple coats in a short time; sand lightly between coats with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Shellac contains denatured alcohol, so it has that sort of odor, and produces those sorts of fumes. They dissipate quickly, though. The liquid material is flammable, as are fumes in the right concentration, though I've used it indoors many times with no problems. If you want a quick, easy finish, shellac fits the bill. If you're not using stain, and don't want to impart a yellowish color, look for clear shellac.

After shellac, I apply multiple layers of my current favorite oil finish, Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil. Tru-Oil is mostly boiled linseed oil, with some other ingredients. Boiled linseed oil is the main component of oil-based varnishes, so Tru-Oil is similar to Danish oil and the like. Tru-Oil is easy to apply, one can use a rag, or a gloved hand. Allow time to dry between coats, sand lightly using steel wool. I usually apply three or more coats; each successive coat takes less material. Tru-Oil is flammable as are its fumes; again, I've had no problems applying indoors.

There are other options, of course, but I've tried a lot of things and settled on this process for wood that will be stained or left natural. You can find about plenty of information by googling; lots of good videos on youtube regarding finishing wood. When looking at finishes, keep in mind that water-based does not automatically mean non-toxic, nor does it automatically mean low-VOC. I have used some water-based varnishes, and was surprised at the amount of fumes. They were more bother than shellac and Tru-Oil and the results were not as good, and I found the fumes more objectionable than shellac or oil.

As always, the usual disclaimers apply - your mileage may vary, objects in mirror are closer than they appear, past performance is no guarantee of future returns - and be sure to follow label instructions and assure adequate ventilation.

[mete]

I have used a lot of finishes over the years but have recently settled on a combination of dye, shellac and oil that I think is easy, safe and produces good results.

I don't know what your safety concerns are, but I think about the toxicity or flammability of the materials, and the amount of fumes produced and for how long. I have started using clothing dye as a stain (RIT Dye, which one can acquire at grocery, variety or fabric/sewing/hobby stores) for a stain, though I still occasionally use oil-based stains since I still have a lot on hand. The RIT Dye has no odor that I can detect, is easy to apply and very forgiving. If the result isn't quite right, it can be removed or lightened with light sanding, darkened with additional applications, dries quickly and is inexpensive. I believe this dye is non-toxic, but recommend reading the label. Wear gloves, because it dies everything, including skin.

I usually follow the stain with a few layers of shellac. Shellac is also easy to use and very forgiving. It dries very quickly. Quick drying allows multiple coats in a short time; sand lightly between coats with fine sandpaper or steel wool. Shellac contains denatured alcohol, so it has that sort of odor, and produces those sorts of fumes. They dissipate quickly, though. The liquid material is flammable, as are fumes in the right concentration, though I've used it indoors many times with no problems. If you want a quick, easy finish, shellac fits the bill. If you're not using stain, and don't want to impart a yellowish color, look for clear shellac.

After shellac, I apply multiple layers of my current favorite oil finish, Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil. Tru-Oil is mostly boiled linseed oil, with some other ingredients. Boiled linseed oil is the main component of oil-based varnishes, so Tru-Oil is similar to Danish oil and the like. Tru-Oil is easy to apply, one can use a rag, or a gloved hand. Allow time to dry between coats, sand lightly using steel wool. I usually apply three or more coats; each successive coat takes less material. Tru-Oil is flammable as are its fumes; again, I've had no problems applying indoors.

There are other options, of course, but I've tried a lot of things and settled on this process for wood that will be stained or left natural. You can find about plenty of information by googling; lots of good videos on youtube regarding finishing wood. When looking at finishes, keep in mind that water-based does not automatically mean non-toxic, nor does it automatically mean low-VOC. I have used some water-based varnishes, and was surprised at the amount of fumes. They were more bother than shellac and Tru-Oil and the results were not as good, and I found the fumes more objectionable than shellac or oil.

As always, the usual disclaimers apply - your mileage may vary, objects in mirror are closer than they appear, past performance is no guarantee of future returns - and be sure to follow label instructions and assure adequate ventilation.

Many thanks, you have addressed exactly my concerns. I can actually find Linseed oil easier than Danish oil (I am not in US), and to my surprise I found Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil too. I was not planning to use a dye, but I will check the clothing dyes, I remember I saw them in the store next to art paints.

[caffeinator]

Happy to help.

If you see Linseed Oil, be sure it is boiled Linseed Oil. The boiling is what makes it suitable for finishing; I think unboiled Linseed Oil will not dry as one expects with a varnish. I am a big fan of Tru-Oil, but I have also used boiled Linseed Oil on the handles of my garden tools, such as shovels, rakes, even the wheelbarrow, and the like. It is a good preservative for them, and helps prevent the wood from getting dry and cracked. It does, though, either allow or perhaps also cause the wood to darken a little with age. I'm not sure if that's just the oil or also the outdoor exposure.

In any event, good luck with your project!

[Paul Birkeland]

Easy/safe in an apartment would be a rub on oil finish.  Tried and True is what I use, but the other similar options work well too for less money.  I would not recommend applying wood dye indoors!

[mete]

Easy/safe in an apartment would be a rub on oil finish.  Tried and True is what I use, but the other similar options work well too for less money.  I would not recommend applying wood dye indoors!

Thanks Paul, it seems I will do only oil finish. I dont think I can find Tried and True here (Switzerland) but I will use something similar.

[2wo]

If you want to keep it simple, you can use  paste wax or even shoe polish if you have a shade you like...John

[mete]

If you want to keep it simple, you can use  paste wax or even shoe polish if you have a shade you like...John

I read the wax alone would provide less protection than oil, but I dont know what is meant by less exactly. Would it be enough for this purpose ?

[sl-15]

I have used this oil/wax combination product with great results on other wood projects like work surfaces and furniture. It is only natural stuff and can be applied without gloves. They do have distribution in Europe it seems. Only down side, it is pretty expensive and takes at least a week to cure.
https://odiesoil.com/odies-universal-oil-9oz/

[Larpy]

I read the wax alone would provide less protection than oil, but I dont know what is meant by less exactly. Would it be enough for this purpose ?

In general, the harder a finish dries and the thicker it is the better protection you get.  But consider the context of a wood base for an amplifier: it's probably not going to get handled much or knocked around.  You probably don't need to worry too much about "protecting" it.

For Bottlehead kits, most of us use a finish based on how it will look more than how well it will protect the wood.

Technically, you don't need to use any finish at all.  You can leave it "au naturel" and it will be fine.

[mete]

In general, the harder a finish dries and the thicker it is the better protection you get.  But consider the context of a wood base for an amplifier: it's probably not going to get handled much or knocked around.  You probably don't need to worry too much about "protecting" it.

For Bottlehead kits, most of us use a finish based on how it will look more than how well it will protect the wood.

Technically, you don't need to use any finish at all.  You can leave it "au naturel" and it will be fine.

Thanks Larry, very helpful. Then I guess I will either leave it as is at the moment or just use a wax.

[hmbscott]

I have used this oil/wax combination product with great results on other wood projects like work surfaces and furniture. It is only natural stuff and can be applied without gloves. They do have distribution in Europe it seems. Only down side, it is pretty expensive and takes at least a week to cure.
https://odiesoil.com/odies-universal-oil-9oz/

I second sl-15s recommendation of Odie's Oil. It's by far the easiest to use of any product I have tried. Wipe on, let out sit for 15-30 minutes, and buff off. It takes a few days to fully cure and for the oder to fully dissipate, but it can be handled immediately in my experience. It's non-toxic, pleasant smelling and offers good protection from water or skin oils in a single coat. It is relatively expensive.

[Paul Birkeland]

It is relatively expensive.

Holy *&%! you aren't kidding about that!

[Thermioniclife]

I've been using Blo to accent the grain perhaps 2 coats and then paste wax. I have used shellac in a half a^^ed French polish which looks nice but is a pain. YMMV.

[mete]

Just want to add that I applied beeswax (not pure, a bit of mixture, a local product, creamy consistency, ready to use) after sanding. It is exactly as simple and safe (it even has no hazard symbol) as I wanted and easy to apply and it also looks nice/natural as I wanted. For a future reader maybe I should add sanding seems to be more important than I thought particularly if there are glue residues on the wood, I could have done the sanding better. Many thanks again for all the comments.