Quickie 1.1 Measurements Wrong (updated)

[royewest]

Quickie 1.1 (UPDATED - still no love but I was measuring wrong)

Dear Bottlehead Friends

A decade later, I finally built my Quickie 1.1 (gave my Quickie 1.0 to my kid for his dorm room so he can spin vinyl — knows how to get to his dad’s heart).

I spent way too many years trying to figure out how to do things like move the knobs off the top, the RCAs to the back, add a pair of inbound RCAs, use the Alps pot and fancy caps I got for it when I first bought the kit, and of course the most pressing question: what enclosure.

In the end I didn’t do any of that: I just built it into the box I’d been planning all along. The only difference is that I mounted directly to the top of the box instead of to the plastic chassis plate and put the batteries inside the box.

I’m attaching a picture of how pretty it turned out. But it’s also got something very wrong with it.

Some things first:

* I used those nifty screw-terminal power plugs to make it easy to separate the amp from the batteries. Later I will twist the power wires, but after it works. The correct voltages arrive at the terminals where the 3 power lines come in.

* I have gone over everything at least twice, walking through the instructions and checking the connections, re-soldering joins, looking closely at all the connections through a strong magnifying glass, comparing to the finished pic in the manual, and counting rotary switch numbers so often I can now count from 1 to 12 all on my own.

* I have two sets of tubes. Swapping doesn’t solve things.

* I have carefully ensured that the rotary switch is one click clockwise from leftmost when I test the voltages.

Clearly there’s something glaringly obvious that I’m simply not seeing.

So, here are the measurements.


Connection strip:
1: 0.L (same as leads in air)
6: 0.L
2: 0.L
7: 0.L
3: NC
8: NC
4: 1.07K ohms
9: 1.07K ohms
5: 0.1 ohms
10: 0 ohms


Rotary switch:
* 1: 0.L
* 2: 0.L
* 3: 91.3K ohms
* 4: 0.L
* 5: 0.L
* 6: 101.4K ohms
* 7: 0.L
* 8: 1.07K ohms
* 9: 1.07K ohms
* 10: 0.L
* 11: 1.07K ohms
* 12: 1.07K ohms

Pot:
* Closest to chassis B terminal 101.4K ohms (irrespective of knob position)
* Farthest from chassis B terminal 91.4K ohms (irrespective of knob position)

When I attach power, rotary switch to 1 click clockwise from full counterclockwise measurements:

* 1: 0 v
* 2: 0 v
* 3: 0 v
* 4: 0 v
* 5: 0 v
* 6: 0 v
* 7: 0 v
* 8:  3.945 v
* 9:  3.945 v
* 10: 0 v
* 11: 4.036 v
* 12: 4.036 v
* A: 0 v
* B: 0 v
* C: 3.942 v
* D: 3.942 v

I’ll note that switch terminals 1, 4, 7, 10 have no wires connected, but gosh I think this matches the manual.

I know it’s been a long time, but I’d be enormously grateful if someone could take a peek and seeing these values, instantly spot what I’ve overlooked.

Thank you,

__Roy

[Paul Birkeland]

When you have the amp on, what's the DC voltage between pins 1 and 5 on each 7 pin socket?

[royewest]

Hi Paul,

First, I'm embarrassed to say that I was measuring wrong. I just updated my original post.

Second, I get 0 v between pins 1 and 5 on both tube sockets.

Thank you,

__Roy

[Paul Birkeland]

What voltage does your meter show if you measure one of the D cell batteries?

[royewest]

1.54 v each. I've also verified that the voltage is maintained where they connect to the circuit, along with the 36 v from the 9-volt batteries.

[Paul Birkeland]

Well one end of each 1.5V battery wires to each 7 pin socket, and the other is switched through the rotary switch to the 7 pin socket.  If your 1.5V DC is not appearing between pins 1 and 5 on each 7 pin socket, then you aren't successfully switching in the D cell batteries, or possibly there's some kind of short pulling their voltage down (you can probe the batteries while the preamp is on to check on that to be certain).