Timothy C’s Moreplay Build

[timmieec]

From sunny Singapore, hello everyone!

Starting a log for my Moreplay build, my first Bottlehead kit!

I stained the wood base using Super Black India Ink. Have yet to top coat using spray on lacquer.

For the bell and chassis, after masking the back side, I spray painted with high heat primer first, then aluminium colored engine enamel and finally clear engine enamel. I chose these products because I wasn’t sure how much heat the tubes and transformer would generate and if normal spray paint would’ve worked or not.

I’m pretty happy with the color combination!

[Doc B.]

Regular spray paint usually works fine, but using the high heat paint certainly doesn't hurt. And it looks very nice! A tip for your wood base - a coat of shellac on the wood before you apply lacquer helps fill the grain,
 with fewer coats of lacquer needed. I learned that trick from an old timer when I was restoring antique radios. Just go easy when you sand the dry shellac before putting on the lacquer. If you get too heavy handed the shellac can get soft and gummy on your sandpaper.

[timmieec]

Thanks Doc!

Will definitely consider it. Not sure I’d be able to apply the shellac without creating brush strokes and an uneven surface but will look to maybe practice on some other wood scrap first.

[Doc B.]

Yeah, you have to lightly sand brushed on shellac to get it smooth before spraying lacquer. You can also use spray shellac. It will take several coats to build up enough to fill the grain. And yes, skipping the shellac and just applying a whole lot of coats of lacquer will work too. There are many different ways to do a lacquer finish. I've even used clear epoxy scraped smooth with a razor blade while still soft to fill the grain in mahogany before applying a finish coat.

[hmbscott]

Not sure I’d be able to apply the shellac without creating brush strokes and an uneven surface but will look to maybe practice on some other wood scrap first.

I am a big fan of shellac for a varnish type finish. I'm using it on my new Moreplay and StereoMour bases from a spray can. Zinsser sells it. Premixed shellac has a shelf-life of about 2 years, and when old will no longer dry hard.

It's very easy to use. I am sanding using 400 grit on an orbital sander between coats. Coats are very thin, just 1-2 spray passes. If you wanted a satin finish the 400g sanded finish is excellent. And 3-4 coats will get to complete coverage in just an hour or two. Coats can be sand in about 15 minutes in warm dry conditions (slower if cold or humid).

Shellac is actually quite durable. It's very durable against most wear and water, although can be damaged by water if left in contact for a long time, and alcohol dissolves it. It melts at about 70C (160F), which I think may account for the gumminess caused by overly vigorous sanding.

It was what was used for almost all "varnish" finishing for centuries, including floors, until lacquer and other modern finishes were invented. It's probably the easiest varnish type finish to apply. Unlike virtually all other varnishes, it can very easily be repaired simply by light sanding and recoating. The dried finish is completely nontoxic, and is in fact used on food, for example, apples are shellacked to extend shelf life.

[Thermioniclife]

If you are concerned about brush marks when applying shellac you can use a pseudo French polish method and forget the rotten stone. It will go on very smooth and dry quickly, but it will take a lot of applications to fill the grain of the wood. then you can leave it that way or apply a real cellulose lacquer or simply apply furniture wax, Lacquer made for musical instruments is best but it is very irritating. but it looks beautiful.

[Doc B.]

Lacquer is OK over French polish? Good to know. I wouldn't have thought so because of the oil.

[Karl5150]

Timothy,
Looks like you are off to a good start, keep up the good work.
Karl

[AG]

Beautiful!
I used just wax on mine (briwax).
keep us posted and thanks for sharing.

Cheers from Fla.
Andre.

[timmieec]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

The Zinsser shellac spray is "currently unavailable" on Amazon Singapore  DIY in Singapore is really not as fun as in the US...

I've mounted all the components onto the chassis plate but am not sure if I've put the 4-pole 3-position rotary switch in the right place. The instruction manual says to mount it in the hole in the front left corner but in the accompanying photo it looks like it's mounted in the hole towards the side with the RCA jacks, which is the hole in the front right corner. I decided to follow the photo and so I placed it in the front right corner hole (refer to second photo). Is this correct?

I have annotated the underside of the chassis plate as the manual suggested and love how much it should reduce the chances of erroneously connecting stuff

Once someone's confirmed I've mounted the 4-pole 3-position rotary switch in the right place I'll move on to the hard part, soldering!

[Thermioniclife]

You are all set, good luck. Take your time and enjoy.

[hmbscott]

Your selector is correctly mounted.

[Doc B.]

Thanks for catching that typo!

[AG]

I dont think is a typo. left or right will variate regarding if the plate is up side down or vise versa. For intalation the plate should be upside down thus the selector is on the front left.
Its great the instructions are so well ilustrated that clarify any question.

AG.

[timmieec]

Thank you everyone for the confirmation!

Yes true that it is in the front left corner when viewing the underside of the plate. Perhaps a good way to phrase it would be something like “the slotted hole furthest away from the power switch”? Because then it’s viewing angle agnostic 

It’s a 3 day weekend in Singapore so I’m hoping to make decent progress! I’ll go slow because as the manual says, there’s no prize for fastest build