Crack builds that suck - learn good building by looking at bad building

[Tuco]

Was talking with a friend, telling him about having fun building audio components, and that despite my age, am still learn by screwing up - despite my experience similar equipment.  He encouraged me to share my experience, because we learn more from failures and things that don’t work out as expected than we do our successes.  So, here is your opportunity to grow wiser by learning from my mistakes and anyone else who might care to share their learning experiences.  Feel free to contribute witty comments or your own lesser experiences.  And, if you have actual experience with a technique or material that you have had success with, please contribute that too - good solutions are always welcome.

[Tuco]

Screw up number 1:

While I purchased some sexy black 4-40 button head screws for this build, I thought I’d try painting the heads of the larger screws.  If you built plastic models as a kid, you probably recognize the Testors Enamel paint jar in the first photo below.  Yup, that is the paint I used after chucking a screw in my cordless drill and sanding the head to give the paint a little tooth to hang on too.  FYI, I used flat black because a flat sheen makes surface imperfections less noticeable that’s glassy sheen.  While the screw heads might look pretty good in the second photo, that is after I touched them all up, because some of the  paint chipped off when I used a screwdriver on them during installation.  And, I’m confident it won’t take much to the chip paint off now either.

[Tuco]

Screw up number 2:

This one is all my fault.  This is my second Bottlehead build.  I finished a Bottlehead Moreplay a couple months a go and I am not totally satisfied with the finish on the chassis plate or the finish on wood base - I do love the Moreplay sound quality.  So, I learned to powder coat and this Crack has a powder coated chassis plate and transformer end bell. But, I used Danish oil to finish the wood base for this build (again), and I am not really happy with the wood finish, again.  I’d never used Alder and i find the natural wood is aesthetically pleasing.  However, I don’t like a natural Danish oil finish on Alder for two reasons the finished grain is too dark and the sheen is uneven over large areas of dark grain.  I should have bought and applied sealer and dead flat clear topcoat to keep that beautiful Adler natural wood look that I prefer.  While this does not solve the color problem, I did learn that you can use a polish, like like the Howard Feed-N-Wax in the photo below, to even the sheen to a pleasant satin sheen over the entire surface of a piece finished with Danish oil.  However, the satin sheen increases the grain contrast, which accentuates the dark colored grain that I don’t care for.  Obviously, this is an aesthetic thing for me, and you might like a Danish oil finish, but I did this one to myself by using the same finish again - kind like knowingly buying a second Megadeath album when your a jazz lover.

[Paul Birkeland]

At least with the alder bases, you can just sand them down and start over if you aren't super happy with what you're seeing. 

[Thermioniclife]

I used to do a half a** french polish using shellac thinned with alcohol it looks nice but it is time consuming. I now use a couple of applications of boiled linseed oil and one or two coats of Johnsons furniture wax, does not overly darken the grain and is quick and easy peasy. Just one old mans opinion.

[Mucker]

At least with the alder bases, you can just sand them down and start over if you aren't super happy with what you're seeing.

That's what I did with my first Crack. Initially I didn't care about the look and built it for the sound. After a while I wanted it to also look good so stripped the paint, sanded it, and coated it with Watco Danish Oil. I also did other unnecessary modifications. Alder is actually very nice with oil.

[Happy Ghost]

I also did other unnecessary modifications.

You changed the driver from Telefunken 12AU7 to a (what looks like) 6CG7? How did the sound change?

[Tuco]

Excellent!  Never sanded an oil finish off, but I’m game - thanks for the suggestion!

Anyone find a paint that stick well to screw heads?

[Tuco]

I used to do a half a** french polish using shellac thinned with alcohol it looks nice but it is time consuming. I now use a couple of applications of boiled linseed oil and one or two coats of Johnsons furniture wax, does not overly darken the grain and is quick and easy peasy. Just one old mans opinion.

Had a friend that was an expert at applying and repairing of padded shellac.  Got to watch him repair some 16th century French furniture over a couple week period and his work was amazing. 

Boiled linseed and Johnson’s that is old school.  Do you find linseed oil yellows and darkens less than Danish oil?

[Tuco]

Screw up number 3:

Despite my efforts to plan for everything, I always seem to miss a few things the first time through.  One of the details I missed was the retainer for this tube socket - I would have like to have powder coated it.

[Thermioniclife]

You can put the retainer on the bottom side of the chassis, and no the blo and wax stays nice.

[Mucker]

You changed the driver from Telefunken 12AU7 to a (what looks like) 6CG7? How did the sound change?

Actually that is a Channel Master 6SN7 with one of those garage adapters. I used a piece of black pipe for a guard over the bottom base to prevent electrocution.

I didn't have good luck with ANY 6SN7 I used ....... they all had varying degrees of hum. The 2 Cracks I currently use are configured to run:

1. E80CC
2. 12BH7A

I no longer using the 12AU7 (or 6SN7), although it is a great tube. I love the E80CC and the 12BH7A is just as good.

[Paul Birkeland]

The screws we supply are generally zinc plated steel and will take bluing pretty well, just remember to wax them or hit them with clear coat when you're done.  (Or just buy black screws!)

[2wo]

For quick and dirty I use a black Sharpie

[Tuco]

The screws we supply are generally zinc plated steel and will take bluing pretty well, just remember to wax them or hit them with clear coat when you're done.  (Or just buy black screws!)

That is a good idea - thanks Paul.  Out of curiosity, have you tried powder coating them?