My Crack Build

lior.amsalem · 23089

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Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #30 on: December 07, 2011, 03:17:25 AM
Hi all,
Thanks for the cooperation so far!
Has anyone tried using the ALPS POT Mounting Board from AMB?
http://www.amb.org/audio/epsilon27/

I was wondering if it's going to make life easier with soldering to the POT legs...
Also, sound wise? any influence?

Thanks,
LA
« Last Edit: December 07, 2011, 09:45:49 AM by lior.amsalem »


Offline Laudanum

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Reply #31 on: December 07, 2011, 04:23:29 AM
No, I havent seen it but would have considered it if I knew about it.  I actually though about making a PCB for the connectons.   I have built a couple kits from AMB so Im surprised I didnt notice it.  It looks like you need to use molex crimp (or solder) connectors to wire to and then these plug into the headers on the board.  Im not so sure I like that.  Makes for extra solder/crimp connections.  Pot to board, header to board, wire to molex plug and plug to header instead of wire soldered direct to pot.    But I imagine you could skip the headers and solder the wires directly to board.  Just one extra connection/joint and the traces.   But none of the additional connections may matter, may just be me obsessing. 

All that said, the Alps pot is not very difficult to solder directly to the pins.  I think I mentioned that I just used 22 AWG solid core instead of the 20 AWG included with the kit.  Just made it a little easier with the smaller and more flexible 22 AWG.

Desmond G.

Offline STURMJ

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Reply #32 on: December 08, 2011, 04:33:08 PM
I posted a pic in the pot-attenuator thread that will illustrate my comments.
I'm sure the pcb mount works-functions just fine.... but, remember that the Alps pot fits perfectly as is ( with the speedball upgrade) between the ccs boards and the base wall.  It looks like this pcb mount will add a couple of cm to the width of the pot.  It may not be possible to use it with out moving lots of stuff around, esp. with the speedball upgrade.
Im on my phone, othrwise I would link the pic here.
Here is a Alps in a speedballed crack.
http://www.bottlehead.com/smf/index.php/topic,1508.0.html
« Last Edit: December 08, 2011, 07:25:14 PM by STURMJ »


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #33 on: December 08, 2011, 11:04:53 PM
Thanks STURMJ,
That's an important input!
I'll skip the PCB...


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #34 on: December 12, 2011, 06:40:44 AM
Fun is starting! Parts arriving!
Added photos..
Here's a link to the photos, till I figure out how to embed the photos in the forum page:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/sets/72157628389850851/

:)
« Last Edit: December 12, 2011, 06:46:56 AM by lior.amsalem »


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #35 on: December 29, 2011, 08:29:15 AM
some more parts arrived. add pictures in the flickr link...


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #36 on: January 10, 2012, 09:48:07 AM
Got the kit this week! Thanks Eileen and Doc for the chocolates :)

Started with base assembly and painting.
The plate drilled down by my father to allow space for the Belton sockets and the Neutrik locking jack.

I've upload pictures to Flickr...
same link but here is it again:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/sets/72157628389850851/

Thanks for watching!


Online Doc B.

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Reply #37 on: January 10, 2012, 10:04:23 AM
Wow, how nice to have a helpful dad with a fabulous machine shop! Looking good!

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.

Offline langendorf

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Reply #38 on: January 10, 2012, 10:16:05 AM
Nice build :)

But dont buy the mounting board. A god solderpoint to the potmeter is better

Sennheiser HD-800 - Crack

Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #39 on: January 10, 2012, 10:19:14 AM
another pic added, decided to paint all bolt's head in black...
« Last Edit: January 10, 2012, 10:55:31 AM by lior.amsalem »


Offline BNAL

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Reply #40 on: January 10, 2012, 10:46:38 AM
That is funny. I just built my Crack over Christmas and did it all in black. I sprayed the top plat a gloss hammered black and the base is sprayed a satin black.

I built it completely stock, which is a first for me with a Bottlehead kit. I did get the Speedball, but want to experiance the stock kit first. I must say that the Crack sounds great with my Sennheiser HD-650. I need to compare it with my upgraded S.E.X. amp with MQ nickle striped iron, attenuator, russian Teflon coupling caps, and Obbligato film oil caps.

I must say that from a sound perspective I do not feel there is a need to upgrade the amp, but I can never leave well enough alone and will look at doing something soon. Maybe add a bypass cap to the last film cap in the power supply or add the Triad choke.

Brad Nalitt
Iron Upgraded S.E.X. Amp 2.0
Foreplay III
Quickie w/PJCCS
Eros Phono
Blumenstein Orca Speakers, Baby Benthic Subs
S.E.X.y Speakers W/FT17H Horn Tweeters
Thorens TD 125 MkII W/ Shure M97xE JICO SAS Stylus

Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #41 on: January 11, 2012, 09:20:27 AM
ok guys, first question..
on page 19 it says that for more quiet operation  connect the wire to 14U instead of 22L... what should i do?
Do I need to connect it to 14U together with the cap and the wire needs to go there?

Secpnd one,
I was lucky enough to distroy one LED. can I use a LED from the Speedball kit till I'll get a new one?
« Last Edit: January 11, 2012, 11:16:20 AM by lior.amsalem »


Online Doc B.

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Reply #42 on: January 11, 2012, 12:17:12 PM
Connect the wire to 14U, and yes, you can use the LED from Speedball.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.

Offline Beefy

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Reply #43 on: January 11, 2012, 12:40:58 PM
FWIW, I used 14L instead with absolutely no problems. 14U gets pretty cramped with everything that connects there.


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #44 on: January 11, 2012, 07:33:18 PM
Thanks!
Flickr updated with some more pics...


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