Chasis plate finishing

[Sh7eleven]

I love the look of a finished top plate and transformer bell, but I have never been patient enough to do it before hand (never have done it afterwards either). The top plate I received for the stereomour has some substantial scratching on the top side. The scratches are of the long thin type, not deep, but very visible. They are similar to one you could make if your screwdriver slipped off the screw head and hit the top plate. I have put in an inquiry for a replacement top, but I rather just keep the top plate if I could finish it and hide the scratches. 

So I have two questions -

1. If I used something like the Rustoleum Hammer spray and applied several coats, would it hide long, thin scratches? Thinking of using the copper colored.  (Or maybe I should flip the top plate over - its not a big deal to have the top plate reversed right? Though its not polished like the top side - i guess if it was painted I couldn't tell the difference.)

2.  For the already built FP and Crack - what is a good technique to paint the top plate and the transformer bell?  I think the bell would be easy - tape around the transformer, cover in plastic wrap the rest of the plate.

[John Roman]

Hello Sean,
I think the best way to paint the top plate would be to remove all components first. I just don't think you would get a very nice finish without doing that. It's a fair amount of work that way but may be worth it in the long run. I've considered reworking my Paramount's and EFP3 but have just put that on hold as I'm to picky to be satisfied with a less than a high quality finish. Just my 2 cents..
kind regards,
John

[Grainger49]

I did the Rustoleum Hammertone Copper on my Eros top plate and transformer end bell.  I can't remember if I did 3 or 4 coats.  I think it is thick enough to cover a pretty good gouge.

Sand, clean with Windex and 409 to degrease.  Then dry completely.  The only pointer is to let the paint dry before other coats.  See the label, I think it is shorter for building a finish than for assembly.

[Noskipallwd]

Sean,
I agree with John on not painting an assembled top plate. Yes, hammertone will cover scratches, it is designed for covering imperfections.You will get better results though, if you spray one heavy coat or two but not allowing the first to dry. You get a much more pronounced pseudo hammered finish that way. Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Shawn

[Sh7eleven]

Cool, I was afraid I might need to take the components off.  When you say spray one or two thick coats but don't let it dry - you mean one pass with a thick coat, then give it a few minutes and hit it again?

Also, since I've never done this before, is it fairly idiot proof or should I take a practice run?

[Noskipallwd]

Sean,
The last two plates I sprayed I only used one thick coat. The thickness gives the solids in the paint room to disperse and settle giving the textured surface. When you use multiple coats and let them dry in between, all you do is fill in the low points of the previous coat making it smooth again. Yes, if you can get a small piece of aluminum plate practice woul be a good idea. I emailed the manufacturer at one point, and the tech that replied advised me to put on one coat as close to running as possible, so practice doing this would help. Unless the scratches are extremely deep one thick coat will cover them.

Cheers,
Shawn

[Laudanum]

  I leave my top plates as they are.  I like the brushed aluminum so mine arent painted.   But just a thought ... if the scratched/gouged area has a raised edge, you may want to take that down with some light sanding first.  I imagine raised edges may be harder to cover up as the paint will fill the scratch but may not hide the raised areas as well.

PS ... just realized that I am now a "Hero" member.   Im so very proud and would like to thank all of you for putting up with the rambling (mostly anyway) that has enabled me to achieve Hero level status 

[Jim R.]

"Cool, I was afraid I might need to take the components off."

Sean,

I do recommend taking the components off the plate first -- and so does John and Shawn.  It's really the only way you're going to get a decent job.

Definitely practice on some scrap first as well.  Then bake it in the sun for a day or inside for many days before attempting to replace the components or  you'll find screw heads displacing the soft paint.

-- Jim

[Noskipallwd]

I'm sorry Sean, I can see how my statement about agreeing with John could be misunderstood, I went back and edited my post. Jim is right, I would not recommend painting the plate with components assembled. I had to redo my crack due to not letting it cure enough, as Jim stated. Disassembling the amp is a PITA, so I feel your pain.

Cheers,
Shawn

[John Roman]

Sean,
One more thought, take the time to do it how you will be satisfied with it. That's my best advise. For me I'm just too particular to do it any other way. Removing components can be a pita but is well worth it to ensure a finished look to the plate. Once your into it it will go pretty quick. I always snap a couple pix to help with re-assembly.
John

[Jim R.]

Well, it looks like I'll be doing what Sean is doing -- my powdercoater is booked up for a good while and can't turn my typical custom color runs around for several weeks.  Looks like hammertone copper it is.  Was hoping for something a bit differrent for this system but I guess I'll make it up on the s.e.x. and quickie builds.

Nothing wrong with copper hammertone btw -- I like it a lot and it goes will with the bamboo bases and the sapele rack.

-- Jim