Quickie mods

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Offline jimiclow

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Reply #90 on: June 01, 2013, 05:54:42 AM
I didn't know that they changed the bypass cap to 150uf (from 1,000uf). I used an Elna Cerafine for those caps and Clarity ESA caps (3.3uf) for the output caps.

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Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #91 on: June 01, 2013, 06:58:47 AM
I think anything from 47uF on up should work very well. We put the 150s in because we had them on hand for another product, while the 1000uF was only used in Quickie. Simplifies the inventory.

Paul Joppa


Offline earwaxxer

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Reply #92 on: June 01, 2013, 09:40:14 AM
Heres a bypass cap calculator that gives you a feel for how small that cap can be before it starts attenuating bass.
http://ampbooks.com/home/amplifier-calculators/cathode-capacitor/

Eric
Emotiva XPA-2, Magnepan MMG (mod), Quickie (mod), JRiver, Wyrd4sound uLink, Schiit Gungnir, JPS Digital power cord, MIT power cord, JPS Labs ultraconductor wire throughout, HSU sub. powered by Crown.


Offline royewest

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Reply #93 on: June 01, 2013, 10:04:38 AM
Thanks a lot -- for the simple answers and the calculator.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #94 on: June 01, 2013, 11:52:42 AM
47uF is sufficient.

-PB

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Offline adamct

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Reply #95 on: June 04, 2013, 09:11:25 PM
For some stupid reason, I thought there was only one 1,000uf electrolytic cap in the Quickie (this was before i had the kit in-hand, but I should have known that doesn't make sense), so when I decided to buy a replacement film cap, I only bought a single 100uf 630V ClarityCap SA. My chassis is red, and is a near-perfect match to the color of the outside of the ClarityCap. My plan had been to mount the battery holders on the underside of the chassis, and then to mount the ClarityCap horizontally across the back of the top side of the chassis. But now that I need two of these giant honkers, that isn't an option. So now I figure I have two options:

1. Mount the ClarityCaps to the outside of the case, parallel to the side walls, one left and one right, sort of like outboard pontoons (which would look slightly silly and would be inconvenient for various reasons) or

2. Mount the ClarityCaps vertically next to each other on the back of the top side of the chassis. The problem is that I can't figure out a realistic way to mount them safely and securely in that orientation, especially considering that I will need to lift the chassis whenever I need to change out the batteries (which will need to be mounted on the underside of the chassis).

Any suggestions on how to accomplish #2? Alternatively, instead of buying a second 100uf cap, I could try to return the one I have and exchange it for two smaller caps (50-60uf), but I've come to like these giant caps, so I would prefer not to go that route if someone has a good idea on how to mount them vertically...

Best regards,
Adam
« Last Edit: June 05, 2013, 03:16:06 AM by adamct »



Offline earwaxxer

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Reply #96 on: June 05, 2013, 03:44:15 AM
If you are looking for a clean way to secure them, I like the 3M super strong double sided tape. Its a thick gel type tape rated for 5lbs. I use it to hold my caps on the back of my maggies.

Eric
Emotiva XPA-2, Magnepan MMG (mod), Quickie (mod), JRiver, Wyrd4sound uLink, Schiit Gungnir, JPS Digital power cord, MIT power cord, JPS Labs ultraconductor wire throughout, HSU sub. powered by Crown.


Offline adamct

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Reply #97 on: June 05, 2013, 05:00:44 AM
Thanks for that suggestion, Eric. So basically I would apply the tape to one end of the caps, thread the leads through a hole in the chassis, and then just stick the caps on their respective ends onto the chassis? I might put a black cable tie around the top of the caps, just to hold them together and prevent the caps from splaying outwards. Just to confirm, you think that would hold long-term (at least more than a year)?

And just to confirm, I assume this is the product you are referring to? http://www.amazon.com/3M-03615-Scotch-Mount-Molding-Tape/dp/B000BO9L00/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1370444261&sr=8-7&keywords=3m+super+strong+automotive+attachment+tape

Thanks again for the suggestions. If this works, it will be a much simpler and cost effective solution than anything else I might have cooked up...

Best,
Adam



Offline corndog71

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Reply #98 on: June 05, 2013, 05:09:08 AM
I used to let mine hang loose.  ;D

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi576.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fss207%2Fcorndog642%2FBottlehead%2520Quickie%2F102d2791.jpg&hash=b98b0e4ec5b8dd316c425e3be18b98edcc1090f5)

The world was made for those not cursed with self-awareness.

Rob


Offline adamct

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Reply #99 on: June 05, 2013, 06:02:55 AM
Eric,

What are your thoughts on the tape vs. something like epoxy, Weldbond glue or "Goop"? The latter two products seem to be what Madisound stocks for similar purposes...

I imagine the tape is easier to work with, less prone to flowing out from under the caps, and since it presumably bonds instantly, is safer than waiting for glue or Goop to dry while the caps are suspended on-end.

Best regards,
Adam



Online Doc B.

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Reply #100 on: June 05, 2013, 07:31:07 AM
In my experience glue is never as good as a mechanical connection for caps. The best thing is to use a zip tie hold down that is screw mounted to the chassis plate and strap the cap down to that with a zip tie. Caps are covered with very slippery plastic (polypropylene? polyester?) and no adhesive sticks to it very well.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
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Offline adamct

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Reply #101 on: June 05, 2013, 10:10:47 AM
That's what I originally wanted to do...but that seems like it would be challenging with the caps mounted vertically. Maybe I can screw two vertical brackets to the outside of the back wall of the chassis, and then zip-tie the caps to the bracket...



Offline adamct

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Reply #102 on: June 05, 2013, 10:35:52 AM
By "bracket" I meant a mending plate similar to this one. I think that should do the trick nicely. I can screw two of them vertically to the back, then strap the caps to them using two zip ties each (one high, one low).

Best,
Adam



Offline earwaxxer

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Reply #103 on: June 05, 2013, 04:26:39 PM
This 3M stuff is pretty amazing. I also use it to secure my cables to the wall molding when I have to run wire for a distance. It sticks. For a long time. For me, I'm always screwing with my shit anyway, so its easy to yank it off and put a new slab down when I'm done. I dont have to drill any holes or anything, so I dont have to commit on where the thing is going to stay.

Eric
Emotiva XPA-2, Magnepan MMG (mod), Quickie (mod), JRiver, Wyrd4sound uLink, Schiit Gungnir, JPS Digital power cord, MIT power cord, JPS Labs ultraconductor wire throughout, HSU sub. powered by Crown.


Offline earwaxxer

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Reply #104 on: June 08, 2013, 03:45:45 PM
Ok onward and upward... I stumbled onto an awesome realization. Sure, I  know, 'ok Eric you're just fucked up on dope'. Nope, thats not it. I'm pretty flat blown away. This is real. I have liked my modded Quickie now for some time. What I didnt fully realize until the past couple of weeks, is that resistors make a LARGE difference.

I didnt realize that because I did my resistor mods along with several others all at the same time. What I didnt do, is swap out one pair (the 1K's that are in parallel with the electrolytics). The reason was, at the time, I had some good electrolytics in there, and I didnt feel like hastleing with them. Well, many months have past. The electrolytics are long gone, and there sat the two 1Kohm Dales in there (they were the first level upgrade - I later replaced the Dales with Tantlelums). What picked my curiosity is that, on a lark, I subbed in a couple of high quality carbon comps in the 220ohm spot (where they originally were in the stock kit). I was hoping to get some euphony or something. Not sure. Well, that didnt happen. The Tants that I had in there blew them away. The comps just dumbed everything down. Resolution went to shit. Sure they werent 'burned in', but when I hear something that has that far to go, I yank it. Anyway, back in with the Tants. That experience got me back online and I ordered a couple of 1K tants from Parts Express. Now, several weeks later. I'm getting around to listening to some music that I havent listened to in awhile. Good shit homer. Unexpected.

Curious if anyone else loves the Tants? From what I have read about them, most people really like them. What I can say, is they are super clean and resolved. Tight and quick.

Eric
Emotiva XPA-2, Magnepan MMG (mod), Quickie (mod), JRiver, Wyrd4sound uLink, Schiit Gungnir, JPS Digital power cord, MIT power cord, JPS Labs ultraconductor wire throughout, HSU sub. powered by Crown.