stereomour newbie

[rockdrummer]

So...who is sick of me yet?

 

Well, I'm shuffling my feet to begin the grit of my build because I don't have a meter yet.  I see on Ebay a used Fluke Model 83 for $90.  I also see models 15B and the often recommended 87. 

We all want a good deal, but I'm just confused when it comes to functions.  If it reads volts, and millivolts, does that ensure it will do everything I need to check resistances and voltages on a bottlehead kit? 

I see posts of people who have purchased a 115, a 117 and 87's etc.  But I don't see any of those in my price range. 
If I can order one this weekend, I'll be glad.

The "*" readings in the manual make sense to me, I just need to be confident that most fluke meters will read the high resistances I need.

Thanks for being patient with me.

Ben


I'm pretty sure I am making this more difficult than it needs to be.  I apologize for that.  Out of my comfort zone, I guess.

[rlyach]

If you are looking for a good dmm at a budget price, this article speaks very favorable of the Mastech MS8268 available at amazon for $38.50. I looked at the specs and it should do everything you need.

best multimeter reviews - http://www.bestcovery.com/best-multimeter-overall
Mastech MS8268 manual - http://www.histest.com/blog/files/2012/02/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Multimeter-Users-Manual.pdf
Amazon link - http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Manual-Multimeter/dp/B0050LVFS0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1364490225&sr=1-1&keywords=Mastech+MS8268

Hope this helps.

[Doc B.]

Some Flukes are notorious for the display panel getting flaky with time. I have one myself. With a really fresh battery it works pretty well. As soon as the battery starts to fade a little the display gets really flaky and you have to press on it a bit for the worn contact areas to conduct.

When it comes to buying older high end test gear, caveat emptor. If it works it's great, if it doesn't, it's not really making the job easier. We have had a love/hate relationship with my old Tek scope, which falls into this category. It's been pretty much completely recapped, and about 85% of the time it's really nice to use. The other 15% is not much fun.

[2wo]

yes, you're making it harder on yourself. Flukes are great but for $20-40 you can a lot of very good meters that will do as good a job.  Here is one from sears on sale for $20. You can go to the store and look at it. Lets see if it can figure out how to copy a link on this new iPad, if not I am sure you can find it ...John

 http://www.sears.com/craftsman-multimeter-digital-with-8-functions-and-20/p-03482141000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

[Paul Joppa]

I have two or three varieties of Radio Shack mid-range meters that I use all the time. My fancy Fluke is great for a few things, but overkill for kit-building - I don't use it that often, actually.

[rlyach]

The only feature on a DMM that is quite nice is auto-ranging. I think $10 extra is worth spending for a meter with auto-ranging.

[chard]

If you are looking for a good dmm at a budget price, this article speaks very favorable of the Mastech MS8268 available at amazon for $38.50. I looked at the specs and it should do everything you need.

best multimeter reviews - http://www.bestcovery.com/best-multimeter-overall
Mastech MS8268 manual - http://www.histest.com/blog/files/2012/02/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Multimeter-Users-Manual.pdf
Amazon link - http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Manual-Multimeter/dp/B0050LVFS0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1364490225&sr=1-1&keywords=Mastech+MS8268

Hope this helps.

  Thanks for the tip Randy. I just ordered one as my old meter just broke. I am glad this meter uses 3 aaa batteries. My old meter used a D battery and didn't have extended battery connection leads so it was difficult to replace the battery.

[rockdrummer]

Hi everyone. I am going to whipe the bell and choke covers with acetone, sand with 320 paper, and prime and mask then paint. Can i just buy any primer and semi gloss or gloss spraypaint or is the heat an issue? I looked at several builds where people have done similat things i just need product suggestions. If there isnt any issues im going to just go this route. I want a black look and will probably paint the base black too.
Thanks, Ben

[Jim R.]

Hi Ben,

Most of the standard spray paints are good to about 160 degrees F -- probably ok, but to play it safe, I generally use the rustoleum Ultra high heat spray for gas grilles -- comes in flat and semi gloss black. and with the 1000 degree rating, they are totally worry free.

HTH,

Jim

[rockdrummer]

Hi everybody.  I attached the rectifiers and capacitors etc. to the power supply board last night.  I haven't soldered anything yet.  I was practicing with my weller 40 watt soldering iron.  It says it heats up to 900 degrees.  A bit high for the recommended setting.  But anyway, before I do start, I have a very pointy conical pencil tip and a chisel tip.  I was going to use the pencil tip and wanted to double check what other people do.

I read that some kit builders suggest the conical tip, but mine is different than I envisioned it looking like. 

Also, I am aware of the timing and technic of soldering, not too long, etc.  but I was wondering if I will know if I stay on too long?  I read about a carbon resistor frying on a recent post and that seems obvious, but are the damages always obvious?  Anyway, I know caution is important, and am practicing on stranded wire (which takes a long time to heat).

Trying to find something to practice that will simulate pc board + lead joint soldering.

Thanks for listening.

Ben

[rockdrummer]

I'm afraid I come across quite paranoied.


Side note-I tested all the resistors.  If I made a good connection with the leads and didn't move them, they all settled right around the labeled amount.  And after actually assembling some, I wanted to take it apart and do it again.  So much fun, and the manual is extremely easy to follow and well written.

Thanks again.

[corndog71]

You're thinking about it too much.

The best thing you can do is practice with it.  Buy some cheap resistors and caps and some terminal strips, maybe a plain bread board from radio shack and practice. 

Here's a video to help with technique.

[Paul Birkeland]

The chisel tip will work well for all of the building except the smaller green PC board, and probably wiring to the 9-pin sockets.  In those areas, the pointier tip will work nicely.


I wouldn't recommend pulling parts off the boards, they can be a bit fussy when being reworked.