Cap upgrades (bear with me)

[BNAL]

Who needs those little girly electrolytic caps, when you can have a real mans cap like these.

Well I was able to fit the 100uF motor run caps in and I still have the Russian Teflon caps as well. The Teflon caps help to keep those big caps from toughing anything. It is making music, but have not had a chance to do any real listening. I had to increase the depth of the base to fit them in as you can see in the picture.

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi597.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt55%2Fpnalitt%2FIMAG0189.jpg&hash=c21c55f9b5eb8cd26003aa9f1ce0664a36be109e)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi597.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ftt55%2Fpnalitt%2FIMAG0192.jpg&hash=305772294a5ed89be4ed35bd11f3c7b64d029652)

I used big caps and bypassed them with big Russian 0.22uF Teflon caps. I have since removed those caps a d replaced them with Mundorf caps.

[earwaxxer]

Dont send them back! They are much too beautiful to send back! As others have said, we build our homes AROUND our caps. You can extend the leads. I would use Teflon coated pure silver, or a good solid core copper. If it seems the outside is conductive you can wrap them with electrical tape (banish the thought). Big honkin caps are a thing of pride. Ask Granger if you dont believe me!

[Grainger49]

Adam,

Yup!  Film caps of higher values are BIG ! !  Consider the size of a 1uF film cap.  You bought 100uF.  But they sound very, very good!

I'm a confessed capacitor junkie.  I have a pair of big oilers, see the post 2 above me, in my FP 2 Pseudo Dual Mono Power Supply set up.  Those are bypassed with KK (Kommie Kap) PIO and KK Teflon caps.  Ok, I'm a strange man but my wife loves me.

You could attach the caps to the sides of the base and use stranded wire to attach them to the circuit.  Stranded is much more flexible and will withstand repeated flexing without breaking.

[earwaxxer]

 I have since removed those caps and replaced them with Mundorf caps.
[/quote]

Hey Brad - curious what Mundorfs you used and how you found them to sound? - thanks - Eric

[STURMJ]

caps attached to side of base.

[adamct]

Those metal straps attached to the side of the case are exactly what I need...I'll have to make a trip to the hardware store...

Thanks for the words of encouragement, everyone! I was really bummed last night. Feeling better now...

[STURMJ]

Also note the felt glued inside the the copper strap. Protects the caps case, and snugs up the fit some.

[adamct]

If my ohm meter reads zero, then the outside of the cap is NOT conductive, right?

[Grainger49]

You are right.  However, first touch the leads together so you have a feeling for the exact zero on your meter.

[adamct]

Hmmmm....not sure i understand. I have an auto ranging meter. If I touch the leads together, the readings keep fluctuating. If I separate them, I get a dead zero rating. If I touch them to the outside of my cap, it's the same thing: dead zero. I assume that means I'm OK?

[Grainger49]

I am the one who was confused.  You are looking for infinite resistance not a short.  So you should read something in the mega ohm range.  If it is zero, like touching the leads together then the outer layer is conductive.

What I am confused about is that you say you get zero (ohms?) with the leads not touching.  It should be a high resistance.  But this is different for every meter maker.

[adamct]

OK. When the leads are NOT touching, then the meter shows the mega ohm symbol, but then the display reads 0.L   I don't know what the "L" is for, but that is what it says. The same thing appears when I touch the leads to the caps. I think I'm OK.

[adamct]

I just remembered I've got another meter. On that one, if I set it to the highest ohm setting, it just shows a "1" on the display. Same thing when I touch it to the caps.

[BNAL]

They are the Mundorf MKP's

[Doc B.]

OL means Over Limit.