My little tax return present

Maxwell_E · 20794

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Lar

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 86
Reply #15 on: May 10, 2013, 05:26:42 PM
I did 25 feet, and it all seems to sound just dandy!  ;D

Larry V


Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
Reply #16 on: May 14, 2013, 04:38:49 PM
Where can I get the Canare cable and the Neutrik jack? Markertek seems to no longer carry the former.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline grufti

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 320
Reply #17 on: May 14, 2013, 08:40:17 PM
You are probably better off using L-4E5C or L-4E5AT. Those two cables are the less bulky cousins to the L-4E6... types. Markertek probably still has those. You can check the descriptions at the Canare website.



Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
Reply #18 on: May 15, 2013, 02:58:16 AM
You are probably better off using L-4E5C or L-4E5AT. Those two cables are the less bulky cousins to the L-4E6... types. Markertek probably still has those. You can check the descriptions at the Canare website.

Same quality and sonic properties?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
Reply #19 on: May 17, 2013, 11:17:30 AM
OK, so I have the Canare cable and the Neutrik jack (the headphone connects are coming from Canada). But I have no clue what to solder where. Anyone?

There's a center hole, a tab underneath that and a second tab in the right angle section. What does where?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
Reply #20 on: May 17, 2013, 01:07:15 PM
My hunch is that I take the blue wire (or white) and solder them together with the shield to the second tab as a ground. Then I suspect one channel is the center hole. But what about the other channel? Does it go in the first tab or spread out over the "hood" area?

This doesn't help much, unfortunately: http://www.neutrik.com/zoolu-website/media/download/112/Assembly+Instruction+-+Professional+Phone+Plugs%2C+right+angle+-+PRX+Series

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
Reply #21 on: May 21, 2013, 04:10:42 AM
OK, so I successfully did this and I'm pretty surprised at how different it sounds. It's got a wider soundstage, and more detail, and is more open on the upper end. More bass, too. I think it's a bit too strong on the high end, but I suspect once it's broken in it will warm up. All in all a nice little project with great results.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
Reply #22 on: May 22, 2013, 09:45:10 AM
Here's what I would do differently, and in fact I ordered another pair of connects to re-do the phones end:

The exposed blue and white cables that separate and go to the left and right are very sensitive, and when they touch I can hear it pretty clearly. They heat shrink prevents this, but I only put heat shrink near the split and at the end near the phones. Now that I've epoxied the connects there's no way to undo and slip new heat shrink over, so I'm going to redo this part with heat shrink covering the whole lengths of the left and right cables.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Maxwell_E

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 168
Reply #23 on: June 21, 2013, 05:07:53 AM
I noticed there's a little bit of noise from rubbing the cable too, but it hasn't bothered me too much yet. I may get some kind of cloth wrap in the future.

Max Tomlinson
SEX amp, Tode guitar amp


Offline Lar

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 86
Reply #24 on: June 21, 2013, 10:42:58 PM
I`m more then happy with the way mine turned out. Its like liquid gold coming threw my HD600`s. ;D

Larry V


Offline denti alligator

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1156
Reply #25 on: August 03, 2013, 02:11:22 PM
I just noticed something disconcerting: the sound was being cut out in part (only in part, not a channel, just some instruments!) based on how the cable was lying in front of me! I moved it about and the sound came back. WTF is that?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline adamct

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 755
  • Maxxximum CAPacity Crack
Reply #26 on: August 03, 2013, 05:25:58 PM
Cold solder joint on one of the connectors...