Errors in manual

ffivaz · 5120

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Offline ffivaz

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on: November 10, 2013, 06:00:28 AM
On page 16 of the manual, top, I think the sentence should read 29U and not 30U. The picture is correct.

On page 19, the black wire is too short if cut precisely at 57mm (2 1/4 inches). 65mm, about 2 1/2 inches is better (and picture shows side holes, not middle as stated in the text).

BTW, I finished my integration last night and it sounds so good. The Denon DL-110 is a high output MC, but was clearly not high enough for the stock reduction (around 2 mV). Now with the Integration, everything sounds much more dynamic. Thanks Bottlehead!
« Last Edit: November 10, 2013, 09:59:47 PM by ffivaz »

Fabien Fivaz

Thorens TD 160, Denon DL-110, Hagerman Piccolo 2, Reduction (w/ Integration), 2A3 Stereomour, Fostex FE126En in Bk12m enclosures
Halide DAC HD, Crack (w/ Speedball), Sennheiser HD 650


Offline tubedog

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Reply #1 on: November 11, 2013, 02:51:47 PM
So should the black wire be soldered to the middle holes of bA/bB, as written on the page,
or to the inner holes of bA/bB as in the picture?



Offline ffivaz

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Reply #2 on: November 11, 2013, 07:59:32 PM
It doesn't matter, the three holes are connected. At the end of the build, on the bA side, you'll have two wires connected and only one on the bB side.
Best wishes, Fabien

Fabien Fivaz

Thorens TD 160, Denon DL-110, Hagerman Piccolo 2, Reduction (w/ Integration), 2A3 Stereomour, Fostex FE126En in Bk12m enclosures
Halide DAC HD, Crack (w/ Speedball), Sennheiser HD 650


Offline Chris65

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Reply #3 on: December 12, 2013, 09:33:32 AM
Some further errors, although just editorial items:

Pg 2 Table of Contents - is for the Reduction, not the Integration.
Pg 23 Voltage Checks - says for Shunt Regulator, should be for C4S, and bottom paragraph is copied from the Shunt Regulator check page which says -partial upgrade', which of course by this point is the 'full upgrade'.



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #4 on: December 12, 2013, 11:32:45 AM
Chris,

Here is a thought.  Check how loose the #4 is in the hole first then drag your #4 screws to a hardware store, or whatever passes for one there.  See if there is a metric screw about the same size. 



Offline 2wo

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Reply #5 on: December 12, 2013, 06:39:46 PM
About M2 I should think...John

John Scanlon


Offline Chris65

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Reply #6 on: December 15, 2013, 12:51:50 AM
Chris,
Here is a thought.  Check how loose the #4 is in the hole first then drag your #4 screws to a hardware store, or whatever passes for one there.  See if there is a metric screw about the same size. 


Hi Grainger,
Not sure why you posted this here, as it responds to my post in the main Reduction thread, but anyway I thank you for your suggestion. Of course, I can go off & buy some screws, nuts, drill holes, etc. Not to sound mean-spirited, but I bought a 'full' kit & that's what I expect.
The guys at BH do a great job at fixing things when they're not right, & I'm sure it's frustrating for them when kits go out missing parts, not to mention the extra cost to them.



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #7 on: December 15, 2013, 03:36:07 AM
Ok, I got the wrong thread?  Booger! 

IIRC it will take some time for a few nuts to get to you.   Most folks are more anxious to listen.  So my suggestion is to get whatever you can and continue to move forward.

But if the nuts are not necessary to continue assembly you can just wait for first class mail.



Offline Chris65

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Reply #8 on: December 16, 2013, 10:17:42 AM
I'm in no rush, have plenty of phono stages.



Offline ALL212

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Reply #9 on: January 25, 2014, 04:19:25 AM
On page 16 of the manual, top, I think the sentence should read 29U and not 30U. The picture is correct.


I can verify this - should be 29u and the picture is correct.  You get so used to the build guide being dead on that when you hit a snag like this you know immediately to start double checking!!


Aaron Luebke