Finished Crack (sort of)

ironbut · 7718

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Offline ironbut

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on: April 24, 2010, 12:47:30 PM
Here's a couple of photos of my Crack amp.

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg594.imageshack.us%2Fimg594%2F3337%2Fimg0305r.jpg&hash=46259acf3d1e6f36494d79bd7b259a67ad381ce6)
By ironbut, shot with Canon PowerShot A590 IS at 2010-04-24
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg143.imageshack.us%2Fimg143%2F5937%2Fimg0306to.jpg&hash=8145ffdf0743f7b0f8f5598e33e80e42822c30ca)
By ironbut at 2010-04-24

What an amazing bargain! So far (with less than an hour and with low impedance cans), it sounds outstanding!
I still need to finish the base, but I polished the chassis plate and painted the transformer bell. Put it together Friday and I'm listening to it today (did the checks this morning).
Another beautiful kit you guys!
Woo Hoo!

steve koto


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: April 24, 2010, 05:14:14 PM
Very nice Steve!  Too bad you can't polish the plastic knob ;)

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #2 on: April 25, 2010, 05:36:11 AM
Aah, but you can buy a brushed aluminum knob at Mouser/Newark/DigiKey...

Nice looking build, the first posted, isn't it?



Offline Dyna Saur

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Reply #3 on: April 25, 2010, 10:16:53 AM
Very nice looking!   What did you do to polish the aluminum, it looks like a mirror!    

Definitely some nice "tasty"  eye-candy!   and I'm sure it sounds as great as it looks...

Even "Rad Shaq" has some brushed aluminum knobs - which I use on many projects.


/ed B

Builder and owner of 1 pair "stock"  Paramounts, 1 pair of upgraded  Paramour IIs, two SEX amps (one upgraded, one bare essentials), two FPIII (one stock, one 6SN7 and step attenuator modified) , one somewhat modified  FP II,  one stock  Seduction, and two Quickies (and coming soon,  one Crack). 
« Last Edit: April 25, 2010, 03:59:12 PM by Dyna Saur »

ed brown


Offline ironbut

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Reply #4 on: April 26, 2010, 03:16:39 PM
Hey Ed,
Here's a cut and paste from a post I did on Headfi about how I polished the plate.

I try not to waste any time and start very aggressively.
Of course, wear ear, eye and breathing protection.

I started by mowing off the wire brush scratches with some "Sandblaster" 120 grit (I think it's a 3M product) on a palm sander. That stuff is hell on wheels and if you used it on wood, it could gouge in an instant but for removing some mil's on metal, it's great.
It does leave major swirl marks so I then went down to 150 grit aluminum oxide then 320 grit. All that took me about 1.5 hours. The last sandpaper I used was some more 320 grit that I rubbed against each other and that makes it closer to 1000 grit.
With each grit, stop after a few minutes, wipe off the surface with a rag and look to see what "new" swirl marks you're making and what you're getting rid of. It doesn't pay to go any further than the grit will allow.

After the sandpaper, I cut up some rags into squares and put them on the sander. I smear "Mother's Aluminum and Mag Polish" (at your auto parts store) and polish it till most of the sanding swirls are gone. This means every 10 minutes or so, you need to clean off the polish and take a soft clean rag and polish. You'll be able to see when most of the sandpaper swirls are gone and just the very fine polishing swirls are being created now.

When you get to the point that you aren't making any progress, take a foam car wax applicator (I like Meguires), apply a light coating of the Mag polish and using a very light touch in circular motions, get rid of as much of the swirling as you can.
Polish it with clean, soft cloths and wash with 409/fantastic type cleaners and water. Examine closely at every angle.
If you weren't super careful, you may find marks from earlier sandings. In this case, it's better to just give up and go back to that point in the polishing rather than wear your arm off trying to get it with too light a finishing stage.

I then put clear gloss lacquer to protect the polishing (it'll scratch by just looking at it if you don't). If it's a flat surface like this plate, I flood it on in one coat (just short of dripping off the edges). Of course, keeping everything totally clean and dust free is key to the final finish you'll get.
Wear a respirator if you value your brain cells too.

I guess I spent about 3.5 hours doing this and painting the transformer bell.

This process won't yield a totally mirror finish but this isn't silver we're working with. You can get a slightly finer finish by using the compounds that are used to polish the mirrors in reflecting telescope kits (Edmund Scientific) but I don't think it's worth the extra time.

That's it Ed. Be aware that I've done lots of polishing and I'm still learning and refining each time. One of these days, I'd like to get a real buffing machine.

steve koto


Offline Dr. Toobz

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Reply #5 on: April 26, 2010, 04:42:10 PM
The mirror finish totally rocks! I wouldn't even attempt something like that - I'm lucky I can even build the amp to begin with. I actually left my plate bare for the first time out of all the BH kits I've built. There's something intriguing yet elegantly simple about the grained texture of the aluminum when combined with dark wood. (And it won't show fingerprints as badly...)

What color do you plan on staining/painting the base?



Offline ironbut

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Reply #6 on: April 29, 2010, 08:32:18 AM
Dr. Toobz,
I thought it would be better to just show you the stain.

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg638.imageshack.us%2Fimg638%2F1310%2Fimg0310h.jpg&hash=6a6c62f3c0cb27be5224036d60041819793095d9)
By ironbut at 2010-04-29

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg534.imageshack.us%2Fimg534%2F1083%2Fimg0311n.jpg&hash=8923bdd5d01d63fe27b3f3766a6919cddf267de8)
By ironbut at 2010-04-29

I routed out the pattern with my Dremel and a fence I made.
I mixed some cherry and dark mahogany gel stain after applying stain controller.

steve koto


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #7 on: April 29, 2010, 09:34:13 AM
Steve,

I never thought I would say this to a guy, but, "You need to put your Crack in the Gallery."

I can't believe I just typed that!
« Last Edit: April 29, 2010, 09:37:48 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #8 on: April 29, 2010, 09:36:53 AM
Ok, I'm over that now. 

How did you do the etching on the front of the base?  I like it! 



Offline ironbut

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Reply #9 on: April 29, 2010, 10:21:38 AM
Ha-ha,.. that cracked me up Grainger!
I'll be sure and post my pictures there.

I used my Dremel with a #125 high speed cutter attachment ( I think it's the only one shaped like a cone). I used the multi purpose cutting guide attachment sort of like a router and adjusted it so just the bit was at the depth and width I wanted.
The distance from the tip of the bit to the outside of the cutter attachment is about 31mm so I cut a piece of polycarbonate that size. That way, if I lined up the edge of that spacer with the pencil lines I drew up against a straight edge, the straight edge was my "fence".
I stuck a piece of tape at the ends of the the line where I wanted to stop, clamped down the fence, then started the Dremel. I routed the lines that extend all the way to the top and bottom of the wood first and then worked my way out so I never had to start the Dremel in a spot that wasn't already open.
This was the first time I'd done anything like this but aside from making sure the Dremel kept tight against the fence ( diagonal cuts have to be done pretty methodically since the grain will try and pull the cutter off line) it wasn't too tough. I did a lot of practicing on a hunk of pine and did the entire pattern on it before chancing the alder.

steve koto


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #10 on: April 29, 2010, 10:30:51 AM
I love it.  Looks great!  I will never be able to do that with my Dremel.  The problem isn't the tool, it is me and being 60.  I'm just not that steady these days.



Offline ironbut

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Reply #11 on: April 29, 2010, 10:37:21 AM
I'm very flattered Grainger.
Considering all the amazing builds I've seen of Bottlehead kits here, that means a lot coming from you.
Thanks

steve koto