Noob conductor question

Samsquatch · 3577

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Offline Samsquatch

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on: January 21, 2015, 06:09:40 AM
I have access to all manner of aircraft wire, shielded, non shielded, many different gauges. Is there any benefit in building the Bottlehead kits using this type of high quality conductor? How would it compare with the stock wire in the kits? 

Thanks in advance,

Mike

Mike
Winnipeg
Stereomour II   Seductor/Smash  Crack HD650 HD700
Rega Planar P3 Reduction Ortofon Bronze
Nuforce DAC 80
Fostex FE126EN in DIY backloaded horn enclosures
Best sounding system I've ever owned


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #1 on: January 21, 2015, 08:00:20 AM
I think you'd have to post a product name for us to really know.

Stranded wire is an absolute no-go, as it's difficult to work with, won't stay in place, and typically will short things out as the strands move around. 

If the aircraft wire is solid core, with sufficient ratings, it ought to work fine, though I still wouldn't replace the green wire with anything else.  There is also some shielded wire that comes with the kit, and substituting something else may be OK, or may introduce some noise. 

Do also note that going with a completely different variety of wire would void the flat rate repair offer.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #2 on: January 21, 2015, 09:11:41 AM
For the most part there is little benefit to "upgrading" the wire Bottlehead supplies.  They have very good shielded wire for signals and DC heaters.  The red and black wire supplied does a great job of delivering the needed power without taking up too much space.

Some like adding a personal touch by putting in cotton insulated wire.  It looks cool.  Others will find an exotic wire and that makes them smile.

But if you don't know the aircraft wire "sounds better," I wouldn't bother.  I'm sure it is well made and insulated (although we don't know the voltage rating as Paul is saying).
« Last Edit: January 22, 2015, 02:54:44 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline JamieMcC

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Reply #3 on: January 21, 2015, 01:00:39 PM
The latest wire offering from Navships caught my eye the other day.

"Space Station Wire 20 AWG" 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380903439206?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!


Offline Samsquatch

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Reply #4 on: January 21, 2015, 05:52:17 PM
Just from reading different posts on the forum regarding sonic improvements and general assembly it sounds like there is more to be gained from the power cord upgrades and kit upgrades. As a first big leap into diy audio, and trying to wrap my head around valve theory, I am going to go stock and just enjoy the whole process slowly. It seems that many folks like to upgrade caps and iron and tailor their rig to personal aural tastes. I don't have really any time listening on these types of systems, so I can't speak for my own tastes, but I know it's gonna be good. I'll take the first fix, enjoy the ride, and see where I come out on the other end.

As a side note, there is so much quality information on this forum it's just WOW.  Thanks guys.

Mike
Winnipeg
Stereomour II   Seductor/Smash  Crack HD650 HD700
Rega Planar P3 Reduction Ortofon Bronze
Nuforce DAC 80
Fostex FE126EN in DIY backloaded horn enclosures
Best sounding system I've ever owned


Offline mcandmar

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Reply #5 on: January 21, 2015, 06:15:57 PM
I replaced all my audio input/output wiring with some nice silver plated teflon coated shielded stuff from Navships.  I believe it is aviation grade as it has the paper tape inside with the spec numbers.  I cant say it sounded any different, my motivation for using it was the shielding to reduce noise pickup.  It was however stranded cable with stranded shielding which is a real challenge to work with, i completely understand why Paul says that is a no go as it would be very easy to create shorts with it.  Also pulling strands out of your finger with tweezers gets old real fast.

Power supply stuff i left alone, cant see any reason to change it.  If i were building again from scratch i would be tempted to source teflon insulated stuff, but that's just a cosmetic thing.

M.McCandless


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #6 on: January 22, 2015, 08:27:21 AM
There are a huge number of things that have minor effects on the sound of any piece of gear, especially no-feedback gear like most of ours. But when a minor change hits you just right it can be immensely satisfying!

The main point of modifying designs is IMHO education - learning to listen, and learning what changes have what effect. For some this is a powerful inducement, for others it's just a distraction from the music. We are proud of the performance of our products in stock form - as I said, most mods have a minor effect. But we are also big believers in the personal power that comes from a deeper understanding of something one is passionate about.

The few that have the greatest positive effect as heard by a majority of listeners (and usually some actual measured data to back it up) wind up as upgrade kits - so if you are starting from ground zero, that is a more reliable option. Also, we will support those mods. Other mods will void the warranty, and make our in-house repair service more expensive. But as long as you take responsibility for the consequences of your experiments, we do not discourage such experiments, and the Forum allows a community to share their learning.

Paul Joppa


Offline Samsquatch

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Reply #7 on: January 23, 2015, 05:27:06 AM
Great advice, thanks guys. I'll stick with the kit wire and build stock. I got notice that my Seductor, Smash and Smash-up have shipped, I'll build them stock then listen and enjoy. Then go ahead and install the Smash-up. I'm ready to fire up the soldering iron and I don't think the kits have even made it to the border yet.  ;D

Mike
Winnipeg
Stereomour II   Seductor/Smash  Crack HD650 HD700
Rega Planar P3 Reduction Ortofon Bronze
Nuforce DAC 80
Fostex FE126EN in DIY backloaded horn enclosures
Best sounding system I've ever owned