You should be able to get continuity from H4 to tube pins 9. That is the negative side of the DC power supply. That verifies connection.
You have already gotten continuity from H2 to pins 4/5 of the sockets. That proves connection for the positive side.
If there is no DC between H2 and H4 the problem is in the diodes. It could still be 2 solder joints that worked loose. My FP 2 power wire fell off the power switch after 8 years. Touch them up and see what you find.
If you have a diode checker on your meter you can check them. Diodes read a high resistance in one direction and a low resistance in the other. My meter shows the reverse resistance and the forward voltage drop. So read the manual for your meter.
You asked if the cap might be bad, that is possible. The end that sticks up is supposed to be flat. Bad caps often bulge that end, or the other one you can't see. But if the cap were bad you would have lumpy DC not filtered DC at the tubes. If it shorted internally the fuse should blow.
The 0.62 Ohm resistor is pretty close to a short. The only way to verify it is to set your meter to the lowest resistance range, touch your meter leads together and note the reading. Then measure that resistor, the reading should be a little bit higher.
The LEDs will not light unless the tubes are heated and conducting. So getting the voltage to the heaters should solve that.
Grainger, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your responses.
Tonight, I was checking DC between H2 and H4 and came up with nothing, 0.0 vdc. Then, suddenly, I looked down and the LEDs were on!! Poof, just like that. I checked again and the MM said 6.5 to 6.6 vdc. I started poking and pushing the cap, the 5W resistor and the wires in the PSU to see if I could turn the LEDs back off; recreate the issue. No such luck (not complaining). On my next day off, I will re-touch all those connections for good measure.
Happy man, now. Here's to the next 7 years (and more).
