Finished speedball, now not working, no LEDS lighting

ericoto · 2772

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Offline ericoto

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on: January 07, 2016, 02:17:12 PM
Hi all, built Crack over weekend, tested all looked great, hooked up and worked fine. Tonight assembled and placed speedball, now however unit no working, getting very low unstable voltages and no leds lighting, recheck solder joints and assembly of boards, all look OK. Even small leds around 12AU7 not lighting any more, received small shock after I turned unit off and flipped over. Have disconnected and looking at speedball more closely, Any thoughts or tips?



Offline ericoto

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Reply #1 on: January 07, 2016, 02:33:59 PM
Just another thing, with unit off and plugged, looked at terminal 7, noted small arc. measured voltage between 7 and 12 to be 70 V, between 12 an 9 to be 145 V. ??? Unit off and unplugged.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #2 on: January 07, 2016, 04:09:30 PM
Check the mounting of your TIP50 transistors, especially the hardware used to mount them.  (By check, I mean read every step in the manual regarding this and double check each step against what you have built)

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ericoto

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Reply #3 on: January 07, 2016, 05:13:54 PM
Thanks, tried that TIP installed correctly, screw, fiber washer, mica plate, transistor, heat sink, flat washer, lock nut and screw. did note heat sinks not soldered in well, resolder tighter. Still no leds, Voltage reading with power off unplugged now 190V between 7 and 12. Re did connection between boards and wires. Did note brief moment where LED's did light however quickly out and MJE350 transistor was HOT on one board, not the other. was small board closest to headphone jack. Thanks



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #4 on: January 08, 2016, 06:56:59 AM
Please remeasure and repost your voltages.
-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ericoto

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Reply #5 on: January 08, 2016, 07:42:14 AM
Thanks, took votages. all high did note that if I touched 11 12, half the LEDS lit. I measured following voltages,
1 140
2 240
3 240
4 240
5 120

6 0
7 230
8 0
9 240
10 0

11 230
12
13 240
14 240
15 240
16 240

17 123
18 90
19 90
20 0
21 240
22 120



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #6 on: January 08, 2016, 07:50:30 AM
Are your tubes still glowing?  Do the LED's on the 9 pin socket light up?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ericoto

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Reply #7 on: January 08, 2016, 07:53:26 AM
yes tubes glow, although 12 AU7 hard to see. LEDS around nine pin do not light up



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #8 on: January 08, 2016, 08:11:20 AM
If the tubes are glowing and the LED's on the 9 pin socket aren't lighting, your voltages on 1 and 5 should roughly be what they are on 2 and 3, or 0V.  In any case, I would start by focusing on getting the smaller boards functional.  Dark socket LED's mean that no current is flowing out of those boards.  The most common case for this is that you need to reheat the center leg of each MJE350.  This transistor can take a ton of heat, so feel free to really cook that solder joint to ensure that the solder flows properly.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ericoto

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Reply #9 on: January 08, 2016, 10:00:01 AM
Well, I have resoldered center pin MJE350, resoldered connections on the small board , retraced all the wires, confirmed connections, Still no LEDs, voltages are the same, still will get a shock even when turned off. It worked well when it was just the crack. 



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #10 on: January 08, 2016, 11:09:16 AM
received small shock after I turned unit off and flipped over.
Was the power cord still plugged in?  Did you touch any terminals in the amplifier when you flipped it over?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ericoto

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Reply #11 on: January 08, 2016, 11:32:52 AM
No, unit was unplugged, I don't know what terminals I touched, but one was the metal cover.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #12 on: January 08, 2016, 12:38:14 PM
Well, I have resoldered center pin MJE350, resoldered connections on the small board , retraced all the wires, confirmed connections, Still no LEDs, voltages are the same, still will get a shock even when turned off. It worked well when it was just the crack.
You have a loose ground wire in the amplifier.  The one that's most common is the junction of the black wires on the headphone jack.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ericoto

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Reply #13 on: January 09, 2016, 04:09:13 AM
OK, found ground problem, L3 ground had broken off, fixed. Took apart Speedball,  examined all solder joints, and reconnected. Now voltages lower, but 12AU7 not clearly lighting, although feels warm.  one led on large circuit board lights intermittently, others nothing even on 9 pin socket. Voltages

1 0
2 1.5
3 0
4 1.6
5 0

6 0
7 90
8 0
9 1.7
10 0

11 0
12 0
13 1.5
14 0
15 220
16 0
 
17 0
18 93
19 90
20 240
21 1.5
22 0

Thanks



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #14 on: January 09, 2016, 08:03:56 AM
Terminal 13 and terminal 15 are connected by a 270 Ohm 5W resistor.  Yours is either not properly soldered, or there are some issues with your measurements.

For example, having 1.5V at terminal 13 and 90V at terminal 7 at the same time would be impossible (it's only possible if you measured terminal 7, then the fuse blew, then you measured terminal 13).

I would suggest rechecking your measurements.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man