Is Doc a Saint or .... ??

ALL212 · 8153

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Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #30 on: June 20, 2016, 04:58:50 PM
No, aluminum is not magnetic.

Paul Joppa


Offline ALL212

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Reply #31 on: June 21, 2016, 08:12:56 AM
I meant as shielding - just wrap that sucker up with aluminum tape and ground one end.

Still not good?

Aaron Luebke


Offline Doc B.

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Reply #32 on: June 21, 2016, 08:19:56 AM
So does PJ. You would potentially need magnetic shielding for what we are talking about with this choke (coupling), not electrostatic. That means mu metal, molyperm, steel, soft iron, etc.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline ALL212

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Reply #33 on: June 21, 2016, 01:34:23 PM
« Last Edit: June 21, 2016, 03:03:46 PM by ALL212 »

Aaron Luebke


Offline Rocketman248

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Reply #34 on: June 30, 2016, 03:13:26 AM
Got home from deployment a few days ago, and I finished the Mainline yesterday.  Doc, you nailed it with this one.  First track I listened to was Pink Floyd - Echoes.  When that crescendo started building in the 15-20 minute mark, I had the biggest s**t-eating grin on my face. 

I think my headphone system has finally reached end-game status.  Thanks BH!

Nick DeBrita
Yokosuka, Japan


Offline Doc B.

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Reply #35 on: June 30, 2016, 04:52:44 AM
Wow Nick, thanks so much for the kind words! And thanks for your service!

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #36 on: June 30, 2016, 05:02:12 AM
Answer to the question:

A Saint!

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline ALL212

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Reply #37 on: June 30, 2016, 11:23:21 AM
Rocketman248, thanks for your service.  Much appreciated!

Next step is board mounting.  Thought I'd throw this in before that starts.

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_4573_zpsycx0s6w8.jpg&hash=2e4aae0bc0deec9da65cced1a4d4da5843d4a8a1)

If everything checks out this could be done tomorrow.


Aaron Luebke


Offline ALL212

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Reply #38 on: June 30, 2016, 01:13:07 PM
It almost checked...HELP!!

Resistance checks all good.

Initial voltage checks all good but the inside set of LED's on the A side came up slowly.  Turned it off and realized I needed to set the voltages.

Terminal 20 is at 220v and the inside LED's (closest to the OT-3's) are not lit.  The other pair are lit.  It will not adjust.

The other channel is perfect - adjusts just fine.

I put in a new 12AU7 and switched the other tubes to the other sides.  All heaters glow.

Remeasured volts.
KReg on A side is 3.8 volts - everything else is per spec.
« Last Edit: June 30, 2016, 02:14:20 PM by ALL212 »

Aaron Luebke


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #39 on: June 30, 2016, 02:49:42 PM
What are the OA,  IB, and OB voltages on the bad side?

Does OB change when you adjust the blue trim pot?

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ALL212

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Reply #40 on: June 30, 2016, 02:58:01 PM

Bad side        Good side
0A - 220           220
1B - 220           220
0B - 220           145

OB does not change on bad side.  OB does change on good side.

Aaron Luebke


Offline Rocketman248

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Reply #41 on: June 30, 2016, 08:40:07 PM
I did have two minor issues while building it.  The first was during the power supply tests.  I kept getting around 3.5 volts on both the 6.3v pads and the 275v pads.  I rechecked everything, reflowed every joint.  Racked my brain for a while, and ended up just going to bed.  I took a look at it the next morning, and realized I was trying to measure AC volts on DC test points.  There's a slight typo in the manual on Page 38.  On the second step from the bottom, it says "You should see around 6.3VAC on your meter."  I was reading quickly, and it didn't even click in my head that everything else on that page, and even printed on the board said DC.  There's a lot to be said for the whole "Looking at things with a fresh set of eyes" thing.   ::)

The other issue is with the coarse attenuator.  When I first finished it, all of the resistance and voltage checks were spot on, but I was only getting audio on the right side.  It didn't change with volume, and it was the same on both inputs.  I checked everything in the output path, touched up a few questionable solder joints, and tried swapping tubes.  Still no joy.  Then, while listening, and adjusting the coarse attenuator, the sound came back to both ears.  That's when I discovered that there was a slight play in the shaft on that attenuator.  Looking at it closely, the swiper on the top side of the switch moves with the shaft, and is likely losing contact when I wiggle the shaft.  I tried tightening the contacts by pushing on them with a toothpick, but it didn't change anything.  I'm not too worried about it though.  If I move the knob slightly to the front of the chassis, it works just fine.  Someday, I might look at replacing it, but I'm not in a hurry.

Aside from those two issues, it was a fairly easy build, and it sounds great!  I hope you get yours working soon, ALL212!

Nick DeBrita
Yokosuka, Japan


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #42 on: July 01, 2016, 07:11:06 AM
Bad side        Good side
0A - 220           220
1B - 220           220
0B - 220           145

OB does not change on bad side.  OB does change on good side.
Can you confirm that the R1 resistors on the offending side are in the correct places?  They are pretty easy to swap, and can cause anomalies like this.

Additionally, the center leg of those MJE5731A's can take a lot of heat to solder well.  If one is not well soldered, you will also get this type of behavior.  Shorts are another potential cause of this, and the most likely place for this would be on the solder joints for the PN2907 on the "B" portion of the high current C4S.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline ALL212

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Reply #43 on: July 01, 2016, 08:17:33 AM
R1's are good, board completely reflowed, no shorts AT THE BOARD!

Just before putting it back I put the magnifier on the socket.  I had a cutoff shorting 5 to 6.

I have the same results at the board after this but what may have died by shorting pins 5 and 6 at the socket?

Would I be safe by reversing the outside boards?  Or could I blow something else up in the process?

Sneak peak:
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_4582_zpsb0kjmaew.jpg&hash=c346bacc71ac36827b44e4ea955f69ee4eebbb4c)
« Last Edit: July 02, 2016, 06:49:49 AM by ALL212 »

Aaron Luebke


Offline ALL212

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Reply #44 on: July 05, 2016, 03:25:29 AM
I'm making a new thread for the troubleshooting...

Aaron Luebke