Eros is here... the build begins...

[ALL212]

Tonights work and warnings:

Page 47 maybe 48....49?  I cannot find where it says to solder the center pin of the D socket.  I almost missed it and when I was putting in the shunt regulator board I noticed I had not done so.  And did so right then and there.

Page 53 - Shunt Regulator grid stoppers.  Do not cut these short or you won't be able to mount the board.  If nothing else cut them a bit long but you'll have to be careful and insure nothing gets shorted out.  I had both cut the same length and I could not get the board mounted with the back one soldered in.  I removed it and cut another one just a bit longer.  The front one at the size I cut it just barely fit - another 1/32 and it would not have gone in.

I've passed the test on page 58!   

ONWARD!!!
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[amritdesai]

Had same issue with pg 47 but it looked like the connection was soldered in the pictures so I went for it.

Looks awesome man. Sweet build!

[BNAL]

Aaron,

You have pulled out all the stops on the power supply. Can't wait to hear what you think.

The only change I'm making on the build is to change the EF86 to 6BR7s. I'm sure that I'm going to make other changes to the signal path after awhile.

The one thing that I'm doing different as compared to the manual is to solder components on the PCBs as I mount them on the boards. For me it is a pain having all the leads in the way. I solder them and clip them as I go.

Brad

[ALL212]

I looked over that change to go to 6BR7's but I've got three pair of EF86's so I'm sticking with them.

I also just add a couple components at a time to the board and solder as I go.  Trying to get through the porcupine is no fun!

Gotta admit I think this manual could be better written.  Too many times there is an entire paragraph and one check box to do 2 and sometimes 4 steps.   Could remove the T from each terminal notation and make it somewhat easier also.

Tonights work - no major issues I can think of.  Oh!  One easy change.  When going from C9 to 23L to the ground lug.  Just use one piece of wire all the way through and heat shrink it on the 23L to ground lug.  Much easy!
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[Doc B.]

Gotta admit I think this manual could be better written. 
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I'd love to look over one of your manuals to get some pointers. If you wouldn't mind sending a PDF of whichever one you think would be the most helpful, I'd appreciate it. We are always looking for better ways to do things.

[ALL212]

Doc,

Sure hope you're not taking this wrong.  Love these kits and this is my 9th or 10th one.  This one has me going over some of the directions two or three times until I've got it clear that I don't remember doing on the other kits.  Now...I am getting older and that could be it as well!  But I've found going over the posts of the other guys and checking my work against them works great. 

I'm not a manual writer but if you're serious I can mark this one up - you take a look and see what you think.  If the markup sucks heck, just say so!

[Paul Birkeland]

The 2700uF caps supplied with the kits are one of only a few capacitors in existence which met the parameters required for that particular position in the circuit.

You're more than welcome to change them, of course, but I feel that it's my duty to point out that you're compromising the performance of the circuit by doing so.

[ALL212]

The 2700uF caps supplied with the kits are one of only a few capacitors in existence which met the parameters required for that particular position in the circuit.

You're more than welcome to change them, of course, but I feel that it's my duty to point out that you're compromising the performance of the circuit by doing so.

Thanks PB!  I've pulled my caps and put the kit caps back in.  What is it that makes these special?  There's about 10,000 types of caps out there and digging through the specs is a daunting task.

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The iron was hot so another couple of pages done.

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[Paul Birkeland]

PJ would likely remember all of the specifics regarding the choice of that particular cap, but I do recall painfully few selections out there.  One factor is likely ESR, which is quite low on that cap; the available Panasonic electrolytics having at least twice the ESR compared to this particular cap.

[denti alligator]

Envious following this thread. Really want an Eros!
Nice build so far.

[JamieMcC]

I’m itching to make a start populating my Eros. I clear coated the top plate at work during the week so its has had the weekend to cure now and should be ready to stat fitting out this week.

Watching with interest here but definitly going to build mine stock first.  However I have a couple of straight forward mods in mind for later on. I always find it interesting to try and see if I can discern the effects of changing out a stock component.

Keep the pics coming.

[ALL212]

My issue (and it is more an issue with me...personally!) building stock and then upgrading is that I have a hard enough time getting through the initial build without jacking something up.  Then to take a perfectly functioning piece of equipment and potentially blow it up...inconceivable!   My vision isn't so hot and my hands shake a bit some days - those are my excuses and I'm sticking to them!

This will be it for today.  I've used my favorite wire - Mogami.

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[ALL212]

Time for a break.  Hopefully more later:

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Getting busy in here...
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[ALL212]

Wiring is done.  On to the resistance checks.  Wish me luck...

Just before the boards went in.
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Boards in - wiring completed. (no extra parts to be found!  )
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[ALL212]

Last Picture...

My only concern is that C4 did not read infinity.  It reads about 600 ohms.  All other resistance checks were within tolerance.  I decided to check to see if heaters all worked - they did.  Ran voltage checks and they are all 100%

A pair of haha's....
I had a red 3" wire prepped and swept my hand across it.  It went flying.  That was two days ago - still no sign of it!
All cutoffs I kept close track of (the mainline...oops) on this build.  Only one went flying - right into the D socket.  I couldn't have put it there if I had to.

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