Crack Resistance Check before Voltage Check

bmilcs · 5133

« previous next »
Pages: 1 2 3   Go Down

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline JamieMcC

  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 1167
Reply #30 on: September 20, 2016, 07:12:00 AM
Yes as Doc says don’t get any of the polyurethane glue (gorilla glue is just a well-known brand name for it) on your fingers it can/will stain them a black colour which will not wash off!. The PU glue is moisture curing if you’re in a hot dry place or need to speed the cure up a wipe over the joint to be glued with a moist rag will speed the cure up and is a handy trick.

You also only need a very very *FINE* smear of glue on each joints surface otherwise it can/will get messy quick. On the plus side it is strong and any excess can easily be cleaned up with sand paper or a sharp chisel after its cured. Covering the exterior side completely with masking -tape goes a long way towards getting tight joints and not letting any excess glue escape onto the exterior of your enclosure. Don’t forget to take the alloy top off the enclosure after you have used it to check for square-ness or it might get stuck to the wooden enclosure.

I use the PU glue quiet a bit as it will stick to almost anything.

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!

Offline bmilcs

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 38
Reply #31 on: September 21, 2016, 01:16:01 AM
Right on. Thanks for the tips guys.

I ended up moving forward with Gorilla PU Glue last night using tape to cover all visible edges. It came out great.

I made sure the bottom was perfectly aligned while sitting down to dry. Sadly, not all 4 pieces of wood are equal heights so I'm going to have to sand it down a bit so that it looks flush.

What sandpaper is recommended for this project? I thought I read 180 and then 220 but I'm not sure. Thanks :P

Also, should I sand it by hand?



Pages: 1 2 3   Go Up
« previous next »