L RCA Plug (Resolved)

[BLACKPIPE]

I finally finished up my build last night. Today I was going over all of the resistance checks and got nothing for the Left RCA - all other readings matched up with the manual. I redid both connections (on the Center of the L RCA as well as on the pot) and still got the same reading.

I noticed that the cause is probably from overheating the plug when soldering, as I can move it slightly (from front to rear of the plate). I went through the old threads where this happened and sounds like that's the case. Obviously, I can't do the voltage checks safely with a potentially ungrounded RCA plug (think that's what Blackplate said it was in another thread).

I was wondering how I should go about getting a replacement part as I'm not sure what brand the plug is, as well as if it's a good idea to desolder the black wire of the braid which is attached to both L/R RCA tabs.

I was so close to completing the Crack perfectly lol

Thanks for reading,

Ben

[Paul Birkeland]

What does "nothing" mean?  Did you get 0 Ohms or over the limit?

[BLACKPIPE]

What does "nothing" mean?  Did you get 0 Ohms or over the limit?

I had a reading of 0 Ohms on the Left RCA, sorry for the confusion.

[fullheadofnothing]

Solder blob bridging hot to ground.

[BLACKPIPE]

Solder blob bridging hot to ground.

Just got back home from work & worked on the plug:

• I desoldered the L RCA cup and made sure to go over the sides to catch any excess solder
• I also desoldered the white wire to ensure that wasn't part of the issue
• I attached and soldered the wire to the Left RCA cup again
• I ran the resistance check but my multimeter still read 0 Ohms

Thanks for the continued assistance everyone, I'd be lost without you all!

Ben

EDIT: tried uploading pictures (.jpg) I took with my DSLR but it seems like I can't share them even though I reduced the quality

[fullheadofnothing]

"Quality" usually refers to compression; try reducing resolution and/or physical dimensions.

[BLACKPIPE]

"Quality" usually refers to compression; try reducing resolution and/or physical dimensions.

Thanks for the heads up! I never upload my pictures lol.

[Deluk]

Start over. Remove wires. Remove socket from plate. Use meter or the buzzer to check if the inner and the outer are shorted together.

[Paul Birkeland]

Yes, you'll want to measure the jack with no white wire attached.  It probably wouldn't hurt to inspect the top side of the jack for debris as well.

-PB

[Leland Hankins]

Being anal retentive I always drill a hole the size of wire being used through the RCA jack.  Run the wire through the hole from the outside and then bend the wire into the center of the jack, and the solder the wire from the outside using only a small amount of solder, touch up the joint from the inside if necessary.  Most people just place the wire into the center and flood everything with a ounce or two of solder.  As I have stated before, I do not like the sound of solder.  As with most things anal it probably doesn't make a difference but I sleep better.   

Lee Hankins

[BLACKPIPE]

Start over. Remove wires. Remove socket from plate. Use meter or the buzzer to check if the inner and the outer are shorted together.

Ran the continuity tests on the piece itself as well as while connected to the white wire (from where it is soldered to the pot - to the center cup of the jack) & in both cases the multimeter "buzzed."

For the second continuity test, I resoldered the wire on pot and the cup again, in addition to redoing the solder tab.

Resistance check noted 0 Ohms for the Left again unfortunately.

I will redo the entire braid tomorrow with newly cut/stripped wires and redo the pot wiring as well - not sure what else could be messing with it.

[fullheadofnothing]

This is not what he was suggesting. The jack needs to be tested completely isolated from all other parts.

You need to remove the white wire from the center pin, then measure the resistance between hot and ground of the jack. Place one probe on the center pin and the other on the ground tab. Resistance should be over range, or the continuity should not beep. If this test fails, the problem is the jack, and the problem either needs to be found (debris inside the top of the jack, or something bridging on the bottom side that was not visible on the images shown) and fixed or the jack replaced.

The problem certainly could be the wiring at the pot; we have not seen any pictures of it so it is hard to say. It would be very difficult for the problem to be the braid.

[BLACKPIPE]

Thank you all for your assistance.

I have resolved the issue for now with your help - I had faulty pot wiring (passed all resistance checks after going over every connection and fixing each one).  Now onto the voltage checks!