1) To the peanut gallery: yes, the PT-10 is a different transformer than the ones in early generations, and has a configurable primary for different incoming voltages.
2) Not using the wire colors as specified makes it unnecessarily difficult to diagnose your issues. Changing the routing of the wires further muddles the issue, and in some instances, may impair your amplifier.
3) Only providing a single photograph from a single angle also adds to the confusion; your symptoms suggest that you may have points connected that shouldn't be. Finding that requires clear visual representations.
4) Where does the wire attached to terminal 13 on the power transformer go? It disappears under the resistor and doesn't seem to emerge. The powerswitch terminal it is supposed to be attached to is hidden by a capacitor, and the wire is not routed next to the screw, as shown in the manual.
5) Many of your wires are stripped back way too far. This is asking for trouble. Particularly concerning is the heater wire going to A5. It looks like it is in contact with the chassis. Even if it isn't, it certainly could be. Trim that wire and get the insulation closer to the terminal. Further concerns include the red wire at A7 (and at the other end of this wire at the potentiometer), the red wire at B5,
6) Numerous component leads and wires have been left very long. Again, this is a shorting hazard. Wires and components should be trimmed close to the terminal after they have been secured. Terminals that appear to possibly be shorted to adjacent terminals in this photograph B2-B3, B8-B7, 20-21(capacitor lead to diode lead), A7-A8.
7) Virtually every one of your solder joints appears to have not been heated for a long enough time. When a joint gets hot enough to properly melt solder, it will form closely to the metal. It will not blob up. Note, for instance the solder on the legs of the 20U-21U capacitor. Once you have sorted all possible shorts, take the time to properly heat every solder joint in your amplifier.
