Crack Speedball upgrade help.

kt3z · 2729

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline kt3z

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 14
on: July 30, 2015, 02:05:37 PM
I finished building my crack speedball amp, checked the steps three times, and when i check the voltages, they are all lower than what they should be. Im not sure what that means or which one section specifically is the problem. The voltages are

1- 45
2- 55
4- 55
5- 45
7- 40
9- 40
13- 55
15- 114
21- 184

Any help on how i would go about fixing this would be greatly appreciated!



Offline adydula

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 279
Reply #1 on: July 31, 2015, 06:21:38 AM
Wow they are low compared to what the manual states....I just did mine and they are what they should be...

I would check the installation over again....check that you have the correct transistors in the right position and that they are in the right holes / orientation. Check the wiring all again.

Its good that you have no "smoke"!!

If your crack was working before, then its definetly an install issue, wiring, components in the incorrect location etc...also check for shorts on the boards.

AND

If you moved wires around to install the plastic standoffs make sure you didnt push any tube socket pins together and short etc..easy to do around the smaller 12AU7 socket..

Good Luck!
Alex

« Last Edit: July 31, 2015, 07:53:45 AM by adydula »



Offline kt3z

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 14
Reply #2 on: July 31, 2015, 06:42:28 AM
 why do you say its good that I have no smoke? is this usually a sign of a something that blew out?

Also how would i check for shorts along the board?

the crack was working before i installed the upgrade, but never with speedball, but i dont understand how the voltages are at about 1/2 to 2/3 less than it should be.

Ive checked the steps time and time again, but I am also colorblind, and some of these resistors are colored, so im starting to think that might be the problem, ill have to bring in someone else to see if I got that right. And i think thats the problem actually ill see if it is. It would have been nice if they were labeled with words on the tape for us colorblind folk   



Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9566
    • Bottlehead
Reply #3 on: July 31, 2015, 06:53:52 AM
Use your multimeter to check the value of the resistors. Those tiny stripes are difficult for everyone to make out.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19395
Reply #4 on: July 31, 2015, 08:41:36 AM
Pull the 6080 and then recheck with just the 12AU7 running in the amp.  Voltages at terminals 1-5 are all you need to measure for this test.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline kt3z

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 14
Reply #5 on: July 31, 2015, 10:11:00 AM
1- 185

2- 195

3- really hard to get to with the chip in the way but its reading 190

4- 195

5- 193



Offline kt3z

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 14
Reply #6 on: July 31, 2015, 10:34:02 AM
ive checked now for the fourth time, and ive completed all of the things in the instructions. Is it possible that a piece is broken?



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19395
Reply #7 on: July 31, 2015, 10:37:26 AM
1- 185

2- 195

3- really hard to get to with the chip in the way but its reading 190

4- 195

5- 193
Terminal 3 is grounded, it should read 0V.  If you have 190V on terminal 3, you have 190V on the chassis, and you have a serious wiring error that you need to correct.  This is not a wiring error with the Speedball, but an issue with the original kit construction.

 This most often manifests itself as a bad connection of the black wires running around the volume pot and headphone jack, particularly the two black wires that connect together at the headphone jack.

Once that is corrected, recheck the voltages and let me know what you get. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline kt3z

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 14
Reply #8 on: July 31, 2015, 12:22:12 PM
Okay It's definitely a soldering issue, I just realized that not all of the LEDs were on, does anyone know which joints specifically from the picture? It's going to be interesting re soldering this



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19395
Reply #9 on: July 31, 2015, 02:34:51 PM
Are those LED's on the big board glowing with no 6080 plugged in? 

In all honesty, I would resolder every joint in the amplifier before going much further.  Keep at it until your T3 is back at 0V.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline kt3z

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 14
Reply #10 on: July 31, 2015, 05:41:42 PM
T3 is at 0, i really couldn't get an accurate reading on it, but i finally moved some stuff for soldering again. Then i plugged it in with the main tube to check voltages. While waiting the 30 seconds before doing anything, i noticed that some of the LEDs were off. If you can't tell by the build I'm a first time builder so i expected some problems. Is the only fix to this resoldering everything? I only had to resolver 2 joints on the original crack build.



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19395
Reply #11 on: August 01, 2015, 06:07:14 AM
OK, with just the 12AU7 in, what voltages do you get at 1-5?  Also, with just the 12AU7 in, if any LED's glow on the big PC board, there is a rather large construction mistake causing this.  Common issues would be:

Mixing up 2N2222 and 2N2907 transistors
Mixing up 31.6 and 237 Ohm resistors.
Mixing up jumper wires connecting to the PC board.
Backwards LED's.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline kt3z

  • Jr. Member
  • **
    • Posts: 14
Reply #12 on: August 01, 2015, 06:41:53 AM
with just the 12 AU7, i got the same voltages again but with 3 being 0, so:

1: 185

2: 195

3: 0

4- 194

5-194



Offline Strikkflypilot

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
    • Posts: 459
  • Shellac fiddler
Reply #13 on: August 01, 2015, 06:44:57 AM
And the LEDs?

Home system:
Sources: Ibasso DX90, Google Chromecast Audio optical out
DAC: Schiit Gumby
Amp: Bottlehead Mainline
http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=7463.0
Phones: HD800S

Office:
Sources: Iphone/ Ipod
DAC: Dragonfly Red+Jtrbug
Amp: Crack/Speedball heavily modded
Phones: HD580,HD600 grilles


Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19395
Reply #14 on: August 03, 2015, 05:41:01 AM
with just the 12 AU7, i got the same voltages again but with 3 being 0, so:

1: 185

2: 195

3: 0

4- 194

5-194
Are the LED's on the socket glowing?  If so, I would be suspicious that you've switched the R1 resistors between the two boards.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man