Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Legacy Kit Products => Seduction => Topic started by: denti alligator on November 17, 2011, 01:01:28 PM
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I'm gearing up to build the Seduction and have been looking at Wardsweb's build page.
For the installation of the transformer, he says he wishes he had installed it facing the other direction, since it interferes with the strips later.
See: http://wardsweb.org/audio/seduction/assembly/assembly16.html
Would it be OK to install the transformer facing the other way to avoid this problem?
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I'll let Doc or Paul answer but it is workable as is however it would be easier if flipped.
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For what it's worth, my transformer is pointed the opposite way and has been making beautiful music for several years. I do not remember if the documentation got updated, or it was a forum recommendation, or why I might have done what I did. My paperwork is in a box that I might end up finding today and I can post back if I do find it.
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Either way is fine.
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Either way is fine.
Didn't PJ design the PT-1 with internal shielding that emits less of a magnetic field, thus less hum?
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I also built my Seduction as the Wardsweb's suggestion the transformer terminals face to opposite side. No problems at all.
I think it did make soldering work easier when I worked on rectifier components.
Have listened my Seduction almost 10 months, no hum at all after about 20 hours burned-in. I turn the volume to max only hear the tubes hiss.
I did make a newbie mistakes when I built my Seduction, and many thanks all the helps from Doc. B, PJ., and Grainger.
I'm very happy to have my Seduction, very good sounding.
james
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Thanks, guys.
Next question. The power switch snapped pretty loudly when I switched it from one position to the next (I'm at the beginning of the build). Now it moves without any resistance from on to off, i.e. no click. Did I break it?
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Assuming you mean after soldering it in ... you may have overheated the terminals. It's common enough that I think the manual mentions it. If there is no resistance when switching, it's probably shot. But you can measure reistance across both terminals. If it reads infinity or very high (ohms) in both positions, it's no good. Eileen will send you a replacement for the asking.
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No, prior to soldering. Will test asap.
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Another query: are the tube socket clamps that are low, unlike the bayonets at the base of the tube shields, for use if one doesn't want to use the shields, or will these be used later in the build?
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You may have just received a bad switch then. So yes, check with meter.
The tube shield bases act as the mounts when using the shield. So yes, if you dont use the shield you would use the bracket.
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I'm getting no reading at all in either position. No good?
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Right, call the Queen!
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Yep, it's shot. The loud pop was probably one of the contacts snapping internally. Kinda sucks cause you gotta wait on a new one, but it happens.
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And another query: I accidentally prepped the chassis plate so that the sides are reversed, i.e. when looking at the underside with the the sockets near you the power entry/fuse holder is to the right, not to the left. Will this be a problem for me later on?
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That could add a layer of complication that you really don't need. What kind of treatment did you do to the chassis? Would it be too hard to treat the correct side before you build?
I've been reading through the instructions and plodding through the wardsweb build in anticipation of doing my own seduction. Doing a "mirror" build would not be something I would want to take on without a really good reason. The chances of getting it screwed up like Hogan's Goat increase exponentially.
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And another query: I accidentally prepped the chassis plate so that the sides are reversed, i.e. when looking at the underside with the the sockets near you the power entry/fuse holder is to the right, not to the left. Will this be a problem for me later on?
Theres not all that much to it. A few screws and the power entry. I would just start over. Unless of course you painted the plate ...
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Yes, I painted it. I could simply paint the other side and start over. Would the painted underside be a problem? Or I could get me some paint thinner...
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Sam,
Are you saying that the plate is upside down? If so, it will be confusing throughout the build. If it were me I would reassemble it. That is, if I understood you. You could just remove everything leaving all the wires on them, flip it and reinsert everything. Any wires that need changing you change but it is a big step up.
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Yup, upside down. I haven't wired anything yet, so it's no big deal. In fact, I just removed everything from the plate in less than 10 minutes.
The question is: will the painted plate be a problem for the underside? It's a pretty thick few layers of paint and gloss, and it's black, so that may make numbering difficult.
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As far as the painted plate is concerned just make sure you polish or grind off the paint where the parts attach to it particularly the grounds and terminal strip mounts as the centre terminals are grounded to the chassis. If you have something like a Dremel tool the cleaning of these points is easy with a grinder or wire brush attachment. If you are concerned about numbering you can get a white or silver coloured pencil from an art supply store or a fine tipped paint pencil from a hobby shop. They work fine. Also you can get white grease pencils and just sharpen the point a bit.
Cheers
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Sam,
I just PMd you that I painted both sides of my Seduction plate. I used a Dremel tool (good excuse to get one, every man should have one) with a wire brush to remove the paint around all the screw holes. It works fine, no noise.
Grainger
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Sam, (Simultaneous post with mchurch)
I just PMd you that I painted both sides of my Seduction plate. I used a Dremel tool (good excuse to get one, every man should have one) with a wire brush to remove the paint around all the screw holes. It works fine, no noise.
Grainger
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Flathead screwdriver and some steel wool did the trick. OK, back to stage 1. I'm painting the right side now....
Thanks everyone.
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OK, I'm done with the build. Resistance readings all look good, except for A3/B3 which is 25.96M/21.10M (should be 1Meg+) and A8/B8 which is 23.26M/26.92M (should be 1Meg+).
Are these readings 20-MEG?, and is that OK? Wiring seems to be fine, and sliver strip on LEDs in facing the right way.
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"1meg+" means it's only a problem if it's less than 1meg.
Actually at those points you are measuring the resistance of the LED, using a voltage that (depending on your meter) is too low for it to conduct. Different meters will give different results; if you get a low value (a few K ohms) and the LED lights when you test it, you are probably still OK. :^)
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Thanks, everything else tested out great.
And it sounds great. Only thing is that I'm getting a strange pitter-pattering sound in the right channel only. It's barely audible at low volume, but when I crank it up (as I like to do), it's definitely audible, especially with cans on.
I don't recall hearing this sound with my other pre-amp, so I don't think it's the 'table. And it's definitely not my amp (the SEX). What could this be?
UPDATE: the interference is coming from the room somewhere. When I lift the Seduction up it goes away. It's something coming through the desk I have it on. Will have to experiment with placement, etc.
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The pitter-patter sound might be an RF interference. You have the tube shields in place, right? Is there a phone or computer (today the same thing) close to the Seduction?
Try jumpering in a pair of the 200V 0.1uF KK Teflons. Just use RS cheap jumpers so they can be removed and inserted easily. Just lift one lead on each cap. Remember there are voltages there that can HURT you. The insulator on the alligator clip will protect you if you don't touch the conductors.
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Thanks, everything else tested out great.
And it sounds great. Only thing is that I'm getting a strange pitter-pattering sound in the right channel only. It's barely audible at low volume, but when I crank it up (as I like to do), it's definitely audible, especially with cans on.
I don't recall hearing this sound with my other pre-amp, so I don't think it's the 'table. And it's definitely not my amp (the SEX). What could this be?
UPDATE: the interference is coming from the room somewhere. When I lift the Seduction up it goes away. It's something coming through the desk I have it on. Will have to experiment with placement, etc.
Swap tubes, see if it moves with the tube. I would think that outside interference into the amps ciruitry itself would show itself in both channels. So make sure it isnt the tube itself.