Seduction build query

denti alligator · 19400

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Offline denti alligator

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on: November 17, 2011, 01:01:28 PM
I'm gearing up to build the Seduction and have been looking at Wardsweb's build page.

For the installation of the transformer, he says he wishes he had installed it facing the other direction, since it interferes with the strips later.

See: http://wardsweb.org/audio/seduction/assembly/assembly16.html

Would it be OK to install the transformer facing the other way to avoid this problem?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Laudanum

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Reply #1 on: November 17, 2011, 02:05:29 PM
I'll let Doc or Paul answer but it is workable as is however it would be easier if flipped.

Desmond G.


Offline fullheadofnothing

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Reply #2 on: November 18, 2011, 07:06:36 AM
For what it's worth, my transformer is pointed the opposite way and has been making beautiful music for several years. I do not remember if the documentation got updated, or it was a forum recommendation, or why I might have done what I did. My paperwork is in a box that I might end up finding today and I can post back if I do find it.

Joshua Harris

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Offline Doc B.

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Reply #3 on: November 18, 2011, 07:51:46 AM
Either way is fine.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
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Offline Grainger49

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Reply #4 on: November 18, 2011, 07:58:33 AM
Either way is fine.

Didn't PJ design the PT-1 with internal shielding that emits less of a magnetic field, thus less hum?



Offline jamestw

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Reply #5 on: November 18, 2011, 09:25:18 AM
I also built my Seduction as the Wardsweb's suggestion the transformer terminals face to opposite side. No problems at all.
I think it did make soldering work easier when I worked on rectifier components.
Have listened my Seduction almost 10 months, no hum at all after about 20 hours burned-in. I turn the volume to max only hear the tubes hiss.
I did make a newbie mistakes when I built my Seduction, and many thanks all the helps from Doc. B, PJ., and Grainger.
I'm very happy to have my Seduction, very good sounding.

james



Offline denti alligator

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Reply #6 on: November 18, 2011, 11:28:16 AM
Thanks, guys.

Next question. The power switch snapped pretty loudly when I switched it from one position to the next (I'm at the beginning of the build). Now it moves without any resistance from on to off, i.e. no click. Did I break it?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Laudanum

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Reply #7 on: November 18, 2011, 11:35:29 AM
Assuming you mean after soldering it in ... you may have overheated the terminals.  It's common enough that I think the manual mentions it.  If there is no resistance when switching, it's probably shot.  But you can measure reistance across both terminals.  If it reads infinity or very high (ohms) in both positions, it's no good.  Eileen will send you a replacement for the asking.

Desmond G.


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #8 on: November 18, 2011, 11:57:30 AM
No, prior to soldering. Will test asap.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #9 on: November 18, 2011, 12:04:25 PM
Another query: are the tube socket clamps that are low, unlike the bayonets at the base of the tube shields, for use if one doesn't want to use the shields, or will these be used later in the build?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Laudanum

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Reply #10 on: November 18, 2011, 12:09:52 PM
You may have just received a bad switch then.  So yes, check with meter.

The tube shield bases act as the mounts when using the shield.  So yes, if you dont use the shield you would use the bracket.

Desmond G.


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #11 on: November 18, 2011, 12:15:41 PM
I'm getting no reading at all in either position. No good?
« Last Edit: November 18, 2011, 12:17:43 PM by denti alligator »

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #12 on: November 18, 2011, 12:27:55 PM
Right, call the Queen!



Offline Laudanum

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Reply #13 on: November 18, 2011, 12:32:47 PM
Yep, it's shot.  The loud pop was probably one of the contacts snapping internally.   Kinda sucks cause you gotta wait on a new one, but it happens.    

Desmond G.


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #14 on: November 18, 2011, 03:32:00 PM
And another query: I accidentally prepped the chassis plate so that the sides are reversed, i.e. when looking at the underside with the the sockets near you the power entry/fuse holder is to the right, not to the left. Will this be a problem for me later on?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable