Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => S.E.X. Kit => Topic started by: JosephDuffy on November 15, 2013, 11:01:39 AM
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Hi everyone,
After a couple of shipping issues, my kit finally arrived today! :D However, I'm struggling to identify a couple of the parts and wanted to make sure I'm putting the correct parts in. Most parts I've managed to figure out via their quantities/general knowledge/Google, but I'm stuck on a couple:
4x #8-32 x 1-1/4" Screws - Are these the longer screws, about 1.75" in length? I thought they'd be 1.25", but they aren't and the only other set of 4 screws appear to be the 6-32 x 3/8" Screws. These, however, appear to be the correct length.
4x #8 fiber shoulder washers - I seemed to get 8 of these since I have 8 of both the should washers, and I'm assuming the #8 are to be bigger than the #6.
4x #8 star lockwasher - I have 4 "inner" lockwashers and 4 "outer" lockwashers. Picture of the 2 sets of 4 next to each other (http://i.imgur.com/himE4VX.jpg)
2x [#6 and #8] solder tabs - I can tell what the solder tabs are, but all 4 seem to be the same size? Picture of all 4 solder tabs (http://i.imgur.com/yHUvaL4.jpg)
3x [#6 and #8 round] lockwashers - Again, I have 6 lockwashers, but I cannot see a size difference between them. Picture of the 6 lockwashers I have (http://i.imgur.com/YndWOZ3.jpg)
Finally, whilst putting the binding posts in, I found that I have some washers/lockerwashers left. They seemed to go with 3 gold washers then 2 black lockwashers, then 2 nuts. However, when put back on, they only have 1 gold washer then 2 nuts. Is this the correct outcome?
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Yes, the long screws are the long screws. I never noticed the typo on the parts list page, they're called out correctly as 1 3/4" when used in the manual (p.14)
Yes, #8 shoulders are bigger than #6 shoulders. I was probably distracted when packing your bag and threw in some extra #8 shoulders. Sell 'em on eBay for HUGE BUCKS!!!
Another term for star lockwashers is external tooth lockwashers.
If you can't tell the size difference between #6 and #8 hardware, try sticking a #8 screw through them. It'll pass through an 8, but not a 6.
As long as your binding posts are secure, you should be fine. Don't overtighten though, you can break them.
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Yes, the long screws are the long screws. I never noticed the typo on the parts list page, they're called out correctly as 1 3/4" when used in the manual (p.14)
Yes, #8 shoulders are bigger than #6 shoulders. I was probably distracted when packing your bag and threw in some extra #8 shoulders. Sell 'em on eBay for HUGE BUCKS!!!
Another term for star lockwashers is external tooth lockwashers.
If you can't tell the size difference between #6 and #8 hardware, try sticking a #8 screw through them. It'll pass through an 8, but not a 6.
As long as your binding posts are secure, you should be fine. Don't overtighten though, you can break them.
Thank you for the generous donation of shoulder washers! I've managed to figure out the solder tabs, so thanks for that.
My current issue is still the #8 star lockwashers (http://i.imgur.com/himE4VX.jpg), for which I seem to have 2 sets of 4, one external tooth and one internal tooth, and then 6 (round) lockwashers (http://i.imgur.com/YndWOZ3.jpg), which I can't get my #8 screws to go through. Is it possible that the actual 4 "start lockwashers" are the external tooth lockwashers, the other 4 lockwashers in the picture are the #8 lockwashers (that there should be 3 of) and that the other 6 lockwashers I have (that all seem to be #6) are the #6 lockwashers, and I accidentally received 6, rather than 3?
Thanks for the help! Any idea about the binding posts, too?
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External tooth lockwashers are star lockwashers. These things have quite a tendency to stick together, so having a few extras isn't too abnormal.
A lot of this gets covered pretty well in the manual, as the hardware mounting steps are loaded with photos.
-PB
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I sorted through my kit this evening and this thread is still too confusing to follow :)
I sorting mine by reading through the assembly manual / process of elimination and ended up with 3-4 locking washers left over. Same with the binding posts, came with two washers, two lock washers, two nuts, but manual says to use one washer and two nuts. You get more than you need basically, so as long as your not short dont worry about it.
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If you build it like the pictures and you have extra parts left, well, you just have extra parts left.
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Thanks for the replies guys. Really reassuring! :) It's my first big build so I'm just being over cautious.
Can anyone recommend any RCA cables or a power cable (for the UK)? Seems like the last step.
Again, thanks for all the help everyone. Such a great community!
Edit: I'm on the power transformer part, but my power transformer seems to be bigger on one side (a visible "bump" along the right side when viewed from both the top and bottom sides. Obviously the "bump" is on the left of the bottom side.) This is (I think) preventing me from being able to add the final nut. I can put the nut on without the #8 solder tab, but not with it on. Any ideas?
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I just built my own RCA cables using these -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QED-Reference-Audio-cable-3m-off-cut-/380768374513?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item58a7904ef1 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QED-Reference-Audio-cable-3m-off-cut-/380768374513?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item58a7904ef1) cable specs here http://www.qed.co.uk/audio_interconnects/xlr/reference_audio_40.html (http://www.qed.co.uk/audio_interconnects/xlr/reference_audio_40.html)
Ready made the cables retail for ~
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I just built my own RCA cables using these -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QED-Reference-Audio-cable-3m-off-cut-/380768374513?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item58a7904ef1 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QED-Reference-Audio-cable-3m-off-cut-/380768374513?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item58a7904ef1) cable specs here http://www.qed.co.uk/audio_interconnects/xlr/reference_audio_40.html (http://www.qed.co.uk/audio_interconnects/xlr/reference_audio_40.html)
Ready made the cables retail for ~
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Do you have the black fiber washers in place so that the shouldered part is centering the washer in the hole through the chassis plate?
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Do you have the black fiber washers in place so that the shouldered part is centering the washer in the hole through the chassis plate?
I made sure to put the fiber shoulder washers in the holes in the chassis plate with the shouldered part going in to the hole. A couple of them needed swapping around to help them fit in to the hole, bit I got the shoulder in to the holes in the end
Edit: After looking at it more, it look like it's got excess glue on it. If this were the case, would a knife/nail file be suitable to help get this down enough?
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The Nylon transformer washers will negate most of the effects of the glue. If you need to scrape a little off, you can do it carefully with a hobby knife, or screws that are slightly longer are an option as well.
-PB
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Whoever made these transformers likes their gluey stuff. I spent an hour or two sanding it off in prep for paint as there was a large run on the outside of the transformer that looked unpleasant. At least on yours it cant be seen so just sand it flat.
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Whoever made these transformers likes their gluey stuff. I spent an hour or two sanding it off in prep for paint as there was a large run on the outside of the transformer that looked unpleasant. At least on yours it cant be seen so just sand it flat.
I've got it down a bit but it also looks like the transformer has one of the metal layers (the one with the corder I'm working on) is slightly lifted, compared to the others.
I want to sand it a bit more to try and counter this, but I don't know if completely removing the glue (which appears to be around the entire thing) would cause any damage?
The option, as mentioned above, is to get a longer screw, which I might have to do
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I want to sand it a bit more to try and counter this, but I don't know if completely removing the glue (which appears to be around the entire thing) would cause any damage?
The option, as mentioned above, is to get a longer screw, which I might have to do
Yeah, I wouldn't remove the lamination.
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I want to sand it a bit more to try and counter this, but I don't know if completely removing the glue (which appears to be around the entire thing) would cause any damage?
The option, as mentioned above, is to get a longer screw, which I might have to do
Yeah, I wouldn't remove the lamination.
I don't really want to try and remove any more since it's already pretty thin now and I can see that one part of it has kind of "dislodged", e.g. it's that lighter more cloudy state from trying to get the screw to stick out a little further. Hopefully this won't get any worse since I'm assuming that it'd make a bit of a difference if it was removed.
I guess a longer screw is the main option now.
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I went to town today and tried to find some bolts. I don't think we have the "#8" system here, but I used this conversion chart (http://www.csgnetwork.com/screwsochdcaptable.html) to try and find the right size. I bought some but they're not the right size, and they seemed to be all they had that were anywhere near the right size, but they're a little bit too big.
Can anyone give me a better term I could use to maybe find another bolt online? For the record, I need the "#8-32 x 1-3/4" screw". Does it have to any specific material/coating/etc.?
Sorry for flooding the forums recently and thanks for all the help everyone!
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Hi Joseph,
With the blob of varnish sanded down so the white plastic insert fits flush it should all go together for you?
The only bolt that is slightly short on mine was the one holding the earthing tab (closest to mains connector), its only about 2/3rds of the way through the nut, and that bolt was fitted without the locking ring sitting on the top plate. (seems odd to have it there anyway)
Also it can take a bit of wiggling to get the black fibre washers to sit down in the top panel, but once it there you shouldn't have any issues.
As for bolts sizes, unfortunately our American friends are yet to discover the metric system and refer to everything in relation to "almost, but not quite an inch" by odd number fractions of which divisions seems totally arbitrary. If i asked my local hardware shop for a "#8-32 x 1-3/4 screw" i would get bemused looks... If you really want to change it just replace the entire nut/bolt assembly with something metric that fits. I think 8.32 is UNC speak for M4 x 0.7 thread, and 1-3/4" is ~ 45mm, so add a bit of length and buy 50mm or 55mm.
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Hi Joseph,
With the blob of varnish sanded down so the white plastic insert fits flush it should all go together for you?
The only bolt that is slightly short on mine was the one holding the earthing tab (closest to mains connector), its only about 2/3rds of the way through the nut, and that bolt was fitted without the locking ring sitting on the top plate. (seems odd to have it there anyway)
Also it can take a bit of wiggling to get the black fibre washers to sit down in the top panel, but once it there you shouldn't have any issues.
As for bolts sizes, unfortunately our American friends are yet to discover the metric system and refer to everything in relation to "almost, but not quite an inch" by odd number fractions of which divisions seems totally arbitrary. If i asked my local hardware shop for a "#8-32 x 1-3/4 screw" i would get bemused looks... If you really want to change it just replace the entire nut/bolt assembly with something metric that fits. I think 8.32 is UNC speak for M4 x 0.7 thread, and 1-3/4" is ~ 45mm, so add a bit of length and buy 50mm or 55mm.
I could probably sand it down a little further, but I'm scared to since it looks like the varnish is going to come off if I tighten the bolt/nut anyway so I don't it to be any more likely to come off and cause any issues.
I could probably fit it on without the top #8 lockwasher on the top (the one for the earth, which is the one I'm having issues with), so if it's confirmed that that's ok then I'll just remove that one. If not, I'll have to buy a few bolts and experiment.
For the record, this is the bolt holding the earthing tab, and it would work without one of the #8 lockwashers (which is on top of the bell end)
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Yeah, ditch the locking ring on the top plate, that's what i did for mine. I don't think it serves any purpose being there as the earthing tab functions as a locking ring anyway. Why it was added there is a mystery to me, and looks fugly too.
Just to clarify, we are talking about the washer in this paragraph on p.14 ( ) Slip a round #8 lockwasher over one 1-3/4
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The lock washer on the bell end is to assure good electrical contact, as the entire transformer needs to be electrically connected to safety ground through that mounting screw. If the bell end is coated with paint the teeth of the washer will cut through it and touch the metal under the paint. That said, if the bell has not been coated with something that would insulate it, that washer is not as important.
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The lock washer on the bell end is to assure good electrical contact, as the entire transformer needs to be electrically connected to safety ground through that mounting screw. If the bell end is coated with paint the teeth of the washer will cut through it and touch the metal under the paint. That said, if the bell has not been coated with something that would insulate it, that washer is not as important.
Wonderful, thanks! I've not modified any parts (other than sanding down the coating on the transformer on the top and bottom), so I'll make sure the screws are tight so try and help with the earthing. Is there a way I can test to make sure I've not compromised anything? If this is part of the testing anyway then don't worry, I guess I'll be doing it anyway :)
Thanks for all the help, Doc B., it's very much appreciated!
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The lock washer on the bell end is to assure good electrical contact, as the entire transformer needs to be electrically connected to safety ground through that mounting screw. If the bell end is coated with paint the teeth of the washer will cut through it and touch the metal under the paint. That said, if the bell has not been coated with something that would insulate it, that washer is not as important.
Ok now it makes sense, and funny you should mention it i did clear coat my bell. I'll try to put the washer back back in but i'm almost certain the bolt wont be long enough, as per the issue Joseph had. The bottom side of the bell however is uncoated so it should still create a good electrical connection.
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. . . As for bolts sizes, unfortunately our American friends are yet to discover the metric system . . .
Not true. We have been "officially" on the metric system by Congressional decree since 1895. We just choose to ignore it. Our Engineering departments all are metric.
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Actually when we started doing this 20 years ago it was simply cheaper and easier to get standard hardware than metric, and since so many parts are shared by the kits we have stayed with it. Americans with technical training are pretty much multidimensional beings, we are trained in both systems. Except for carpenters.
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. . . we are trained in both systems. Except for carpenters.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi244.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg7%2FGrainger49%2FSmiles%2FROLF.gif&hash=d8c25de5059c9863b539eef0d5a5f9c5fb975e51)(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi244.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg7%2FGrainger49%2FSmiles%2FROLF.gif&hash=d8c25de5059c9863b539eef0d5a5f9c5fb975e51)(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi244.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg7%2FGrainger49%2FSmiles%2FROLF.gif&hash=d8c25de5059c9863b539eef0d5a5f9c5fb975e51)
I have spent the last two weeks getting the horribly installed tile on my first floor replaced. The guys who did it this time were Craftsmen! The originals were drunks (I kid not!). The new guys even straightened out a bad angle that would have looked bad with parallel and perpendicular tile. They took 2.5 hours to lay it out then it was awesome!
The carpenters.... well.... 'nuff said!
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Thats true carpenters use their fingers. ....to measure, not to count :P
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Besides, whats a guy to do. Around here the supply of 50.8 X 101.6's, has all but dried up...John
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Just wanted to double check a couple more things, then I think I'm done.
On page 17 it states "Clip the black lead to 1" (25mm) and install some heat shrink tubing over the end". Does that mean to expose the wire to 1", or cut the entire wire to 1", and then cover the entire wire in heat shrink tubing and (using a soldering iron) have the plastic shrink on to the black wire?
Finally, for the voltages on page 39, I'm in the UK and have 240V mains, so will I have to adjust any of the readings here, or does the transformer mean that I shouldn't have to alter anything on this page?
Thanks again for everyone who's helped me! We're nearly there :)
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Since you are not using that black wire you are trying to make it so that the cut end can't short against anything. The logical way to do this is to cut it short and slip some heat shrink over the cut end to insulate it. Cut the wire to 1" long. Slip 1-1/4" of heat shrink on in such a way that 1/4" is left hanging off the end of the wire. When you heat it, it will shrink down and grab the wire, the excess off the end making it so nothing can get within 1/4" of the cut wire end.
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I've done my resistance checks and everything (bar 3, which I identified and fixed) are good, so at least that's something.
However, I managed to lean the soldering iron on one of the 1.5uF 630V capacitors (http://i.imgur.com/9jwCZ9B.jpg). This seems to have not changed the resistance (which I wouldn't think it would), but I don't want to do the voltage checks with this in place, without prior approval.
I found one Amazon that seems to have the same specification. If I need to buy a new one, will this one on Amazon do (http://www.amazon.co.uk/1-5uF-Radial-Metallized-Capacitors-CBB22/dp/B0087YINQO)?
Please excuse my stupidity. I'm sure I'll be finished soon enough :)
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Finally, for the voltages on page 39, I'm in the UK and have 240V mains, so will I have to adjust any of the readings here, or does the transformer mean that I shouldn't have to alter anything on this page?
They should all be the same with some variation. For example where i am i get 230v during the day, and 240v after midnight so the actual readings will vary depending on when i test them.
I got mine up and running this evening (while getting 240v) and most of the voltages are pretty much spot on from the list. I would be interested to hear what you got for A5,B5,C4,C5 as they differed the most from the specs on mine.
I don't know about you but seeing 400v DC on the multimeter gives me the willies!
Have fun,
Mark
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Joseph - send me a PM with where you're located. I just built a S.E.X. and never installed the stock Solen 1.5uF caps. I'd be happy to send you one of mine as an identical replacement for free + shipping, unless it's somehow cheaper to source a new one.
I'm not sure the cap you linked is a great idea. In this position the cap matters somewhat, and you want there to be symmetry between the channels. If you want an identical replacement part, this Amazon link is for a Solen 1.5uF 630V cap - exactly what Bottlehead ships (http://www.amazon.com/Solen-Metallized-Polypropylene-Capacitor-1-5uF/dp/B005TLXM1E). It might be cheaper to get one of those than to have me send it, depending on where you're located!
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Joseph - send me a PM with where you're located. I just built a S.E.X. and never installed the stock Solen 1.5uF caps. I'd be happy to send you one of mine as an identical replacement for free + shipping, unless it's somehow cheaper to source a new one.
I'm not sure the cap you linked is a great idea. In this position the cap matters somewhat, and you want there to be symmetry between the channels. If you want an identical replacement part, this Amazon link is for a Solen 1.5uF 630V cap - exactly what Bottlehead ships (http://www.amazon.com/Solen-Metallized-Polypropylene-Capacitor-1-5uF/dp/B005TLXM1E). It might be cheaper to get one of those than to have me send it, depending on where you're located!
I'm in the UK, so I am unable to purchase those from Amazon. I also found the same ones on eBay, but again, delivery was an issue. The ones on Amazon that I linked are the closest I can find in the UK. Thanks for the help though and I'll keep searching!
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I believe you might find replacements from HiFiCollective.
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/
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Found this source http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solen-PPE-1-5uF-630V-polypropylene-capacitors-condensatori-polipropilene-2pcs-/261109756023?pt=Componenti_elettronici_passivi&hash=item3ccb5ab077 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solen-PPE-1-5uF-630V-polypropylene-capacitors-condensatori-polipropilene-2pcs-/261109756023?pt=Componenti_elettronici_passivi&hash=item3ccb5ab077) for condensatori from Italia ;)
I'd wait and let the BH guys confirm they are 100% correct before ordering..
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Found this source http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solen-PPE-1-5uF-630V-polypropylene-capacitors-condensatori-polipropilene-2pcs-/261109756023?pt=Componenti_elettronici_passivi&hash=item3ccb5ab077 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solen-PPE-1-5uF-630V-polypropylene-capacitors-condensatori-polipropilene-2pcs-/261109756023?pt=Componenti_elettronici_passivi&hash=item3ccb5ab077) for condensatori from Italia ;)
I'd wait and let the BH guys confirm they are 100% correct before ordering..
Thank you for that! I was just about to post that my Googlefu has been all used up and I was going to have to get some from the US (with a minimum order of $20 + $20 postage).
Hopefully a BH guy will confirm that these are correct and I can fix my stupid mistake!
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Yes, that will work fine. If you post a photo of the damage we might be able to give an educated guess about whether it needs to be replaced. Basically if you just hit the outer covering it's probably OK. But if it melted enough that you see the insides at the point of damage it probably needs replacement.
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Yes, that will work fine.
Great, ordered, thanks again for all the help!
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Yes, that will work fine. If you post a photo of the damage we might be able to give an educated guess about whether it needs to be replaced. Basically if you just hit the outer covering it's probably OK. But if it melted enough that you see the insides at the point of damage it probably needs replacement.
I edited my post above but I guess it wasn't noticed. It's fairly deep: Image of damage (http://i.imgur.com/9jwCZ9B.jpg)
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Sorry, didn't see it. That sucker is trashed.
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Sorry, didn't see it. That sucker is trashed.
Yep, it's pretty darn dead. Managed to knock the other one, too (though not as bad).
I've ordered 2 pairs so I've got a few shots at it, just in case I manage to mess up again. Hopefully not! Nothing else looks like it's been attacked with a soldering iron though so hopefully it'll be all good after I replace these :)
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Just to put my mind at rest for when they do arrive, I want to make sure I'm being safe/proper with my multimeter. I've got the black on COM port and red in the fused 600V port. The dial is set to the 600V DC setting. See photo for clarification (http://i.imgur.com/sndr30j.jpg).
I also want to get a crocodile clip for the sake of safety/keeping things easy for myself. I tried to make sure that they were rated for high enough voltage, and these ones on eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-4mm-Crocodile-clips-27mm-jaw-CATIII-1000V-32A-/121066362114?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item1c301e1502) look like they'd do the trick? I'm guessing it'd be better to have the clips on both leads so I can put the clips on both terminals and then move to look at the reading without worrying about knocking things/removing the probe from the terminal.
Again, thanks for everything. Can't wait to actually use the amp! :)
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Looks perfect!
The voltage rating on clip leads is going a little over the top, especially if you just use one on the ground lead.
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Sorry for surfacing an old thread, but I just recieved my capacitors and I wanted to double check they were correct. They look exactly the same, but the new one a little bit bigger, and has "France -12" rather than "France -13". I'm hoping the number is just the physical size, and I should be ok? I've tried taking some photos of them, but I can't get it to look clear without the flash, which means it's a little dark.
Here's the image (http://i.imgur.com/XWGXaTJ.jpg)
I'll solder the new ones on now (if not just for the practice :P) and then I'll do my tests if it gets confirmed that these are the same/safe.
Thanks again for everyone's help!
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That is the year they were made...
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That is the year they were made...
Well... now I feel silly! Just thought I'd check since the size was slightly off. Better be safe than sorry :)
But thanks :) I gave it a Google but couldn't find any answers :(
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I'm thinking that the 12 and 13 are date codes, machine codes or batch codes.
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Ive heard that 2012 was a good year for French Cabs, er Caps. 8)
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I've soldered everything on, all my resistance/voltage checks, and they all came out fine. When I first did it I had a "deep hum" in the left channel, so I resoldered the pot and it went away. However, I still have a "buzzy hum", which stays fairly quiet when no audio source is connected, no matter how much I turn up the amp.
However, when a source is connected, even without anything being connected at the other end of the cable, a hissing occurs and gets louder the more I turn the amp up (maybe this is just a cabling issue, though) Forgot I had another RCA cable to test. It was indeed a crappy RCA cable.
I know this should be a grounding issue, so I resoldered all the connections that I could see that are ground connections. I've double checked this, and made sure that all other joints are soldered. I must have missed a ground connection somewhere for this to still be happening. The main joint I'm worried about is the ground coming from the power transformer, since it has a lot of connections in one solder. However, I have resoldered this and it looks fine. I have included an image from the instructions (http://imgur.com/fbsroWY), which has circled each of the joints I have resoldered. If I missed any or there's any more debugging I could be doing, please let me know.
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The center lug on every terminal strip is ground as it is connected to the chassis. The bottom two terminal strips are used, maybe the two above the tube sockets too.
Check those and rewet them.
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Is the buzz only on one channel? If so swap the tubes around and see does it move, i've had a lot of bad luck with noisy tubes. And faint backround hum does seem to get better with time as things burn in.
As for solder points, check the middle post of the main power supply that connects to the transformer, i belive this is the center tap for the heater windings. And as Grainger says most of the middle posts are used as they are tied to the chassis. The final step i took which cured the hum on mine was to totally dismantle and rebuild the main power supply strip, something in that lot had a bad connection that re flowing didnt cure. I suspect it was far left post that is also connected to the bottom left corner of the transformer that was at fault. One other i completely missed was the small jumper wire from the headphone jack to the middle post of the bottom right strip. I fitted aftermarket sockets so i only skimmed through that section of the manual, hence i missed it initially.
Also try turning your soldering iron off while testing. I'm embarrassed to say this but i re-soldered my earth connections 2-3 times one night trying to cure a bzzzzt noise on one side, only to later find it went silent when i switched the soldering iron off :-[ ..much profanity ensued.
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I'll check some more of the joints in a moment, but I think I resoldered the center joints.
I'd just like to add that the noise gets louder the longer the amp has been on, until about a minute in where it settles. I'm assuming this is still the ground (since the noise is in both channels), but I just thought I'd add that bit of information, just in case.
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Hold on, has this amp only just been built and powered on for the first time? If its a loud bzzz that drowns out the music you have a problem, if its just a backround noise/hum then i wouldn't get overly worried about it until everything has had time to settle, especially the tubes. They do quieten down with a few days use, after about a week everything will be as quite as its going to get IMO.
For example one of my tubes got distinctly upset with me after being run upside down while testing, made all kinds of strange noises for a few power/heat cycles before it settled down again. I could hear its internals expanding as it heated up making a boing boing boing boing noise, eventually it made a loud POP and has been silent ever since. Got to love how they all have their own character ;D
Leave it playing for a few hours then listen again and see if it has changed..
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Hold on, has this amp only just been built and powered on for the first time? If its a loud bzzz that drowns out the music you have a problem, if its just a backround noise/hum then i wouldn't get overly worried about it until everything has had time to settle, especially the tubes. They do quieten down with a few days use, after about a week everything will be as quite as its going to get IMO.
For example one of my tubes got distinctly upset with me after being run upside down while testing, made all kinds of strange noises for a few power/heat cycles before it settled down again. I could hear its internals expanding as it heated up making a boing boing boing boing noise, eventually it made a loud POP and has been silent ever since. Got to love how they all have their own character ;D
Leave it playing for a few hours then listen again and see if it has changed..
This makes sense. I do hear little rattles when I first turn it on/off, and since I'm awaiting a better RCA cable I'll give it a bit of use tonight and tomorrow and then see if the problem has subsided.
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Ok, bad sign: My fuse blew. I was using it last night for an hour or 2, then I turned it off for the night. I came to it now to use it and when I turned it on it didn't turn on at all, and the fuse in the amp is gone. I haven't changed anything and it was working fine last night. It's also plugged into a surge protector and no other fuses have blown. I'll have to buy some more fuses I guess!
Is there anything I can look at now so see why my fuse may have blown? I was still getting the buzzing last night, so it might be linked.
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Very strange, by my half arsed calculations the load should only be a fraction of the 1amp rating of the fuse. i.e. a dead short or physical vibration are the only things that should break it. ...unless it was faulty all along and causing the buzzing :)
1amps are rare in this part of the world, most stuff is 3,5, or 13. You could try having a peek inside your multimeter if you want one in a hurry.
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Very strange, by my half arsed calculations the load should only be a fraction of the 1amp rating of the fuse. i.e. a dead short or physical vibration are the only things that should break it. ...unless it was faulty all along and causing the buzzing :)
1amps are rare in this part of the world, most stuff is 3,5, or 13. You could try having a peek inside your multimeter if you want one in a hurry.
I just popped in to the market and a guy is selling some 1A fuses for 50p, but they're out of stock, so I'll have to go back on Friday when I'm not working. Maybe it was damaged (the US > UK trip is a long one), but I guess we'll see!
The fuse in my multimeter seems to have a 250mA fuse in it, but thanks for the idea!
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Double check the orientation of the filter capacitors.
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Double check the orientation of the filter capacitors.
Just given these a double and triple check, along with any connections connected to them, and can't see any issues (joints look good, but might be worth resoldering them?)
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Right, got a new fuse (actually, a couple, just in case) and new RCA wires.
I'm still hearing the hissing when nothing is plugged in, which gets louder as the tubes warm up. This sounds like ground hum, personally. Maybe it will subside with use, but right now, I've another quick question (aren't I fun?!)
I also have a buzzing that gets louder the more I turn up the amp. I have figured out that this is from the preamp, which has a ground connection on it (not currently connected to anything). Can I connect that ground connection to anything on the S.E.X.? I don't have a ground connection on turntable so I'm not sure what to connect it to. I'm talking about the little metal part sticking out of the front as shown in this picture (http://importantrecords.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/galleryformatter_slide/products/rega_ad3_1.jpg)
I know it's not strictly S.E.X. related, but I'd appreciate any information since I can't find anything right now
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I assume you have unplugged the table from the pre amp to verify it is the preamp box causing the issue and not something further up the chain?
On the S.E.X. amp the chassis plate is at earth level so you could fit a tab under one of the screws and run a wire from there to the pre-amp, but i really dont think that should be necessary and may only create a loop. The RCA cable itself should take care of that. Its also with trying with/without the USB cable connected as that will also tie the unit to earth via the computer its plugged into. Also make sure all three devices are plugged into the same power point / plug strip.
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If you have multiple sources plugged into your preamp there could be grounding issues between them. Try removing power from the source not being listened to and see if that changes anything.
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I assume you have unplugged the table from the pre amp to verify it is the preamp box causing the issue and not something further up the chain?
On the S.E.X. amp the chassis plate is at earth level so you could fit a tab under one of the screws and run a wire from there to the pre-amp, but i really dont think that should be necessary and may only create a loop. The RCA cable itself should take care of that. Its also with trying with/without the USB cable connected as that will also tie the unit to earth via the computer its plugged into. Also make sure all three devices are plugged into the same power point / plug strip.
I haven't tried connecting the pre amp to the amp chassis plate, but I have tried the following:
- Connecting the amp to a singular socket in the wall/the only item in the power strip
- Connecting just the pre amp to the amp (nothing connected to the pre amp), with and without the USB connected
- Connecting the turntable to the preamp to the amp
- Connecting the turntable to the amp
- Connecting my computer to the amp
All of the above seemed to introduce some level of (ground?) noise. Adding the turntable seemed to add a small amount of noise, too. What seemed the most interesting was my PC creating some level of noise. I also tested this by just doing PC to speakers that I have spare. Turning them up shows a level of noise also being added. So, I'm either:
- Crazy
- Living in a place where they have some weird electricity
- Something else I don't understand
I tried taking the amp through to the kitchen a another flat (I live in student accommodation), but nothing improved (I only tried the amp)
I probably sound crazy now, but never mind.