Identifying Supplied Parts

[JosephDuffy]

I want to sand it a bit more to try and counter this, but I don't know if completely removing the glue (which appears to be around the entire thing) would cause any damage?

The option, as mentioned above, is to get a longer screw, which I might have to do

Yeah, I wouldn't remove the lamination.

I don't really want to try and remove any more since it's already pretty thin now and I can see that one part of it has kind of "dislodged", e.g. it's that lighter more cloudy state from trying to get the screw to stick out a little further. Hopefully this won't get any worse since I'm assuming that it'd make a bit of a difference if it was removed.

I guess a longer screw is the main option now.

[JosephDuffy]

I went to town today and tried to find some bolts. I don't think we have the "#8" system here, but I used this conversion chart to try and find the right size. I bought some but they're not the right size, and they seemed to be all they had that were anywhere near the right size, but they're a little bit too big.

Can anyone give me a better term I could use to maybe find another bolt online? For the record, I need the "#8-32 x 1-3/4" screw". Does it have to any specific material/coating/etc.?

Sorry for flooding the forums recently and thanks for all the help everyone!

[mcandmar]

Hi Joseph,

With the blob of varnish sanded down so the white plastic insert fits flush it should all go together for you?

The only bolt that is slightly short on mine was the one holding the earthing tab (closest to mains connector), its only about 2/3rds of the way through the nut, and that bolt was fitted without the locking ring sitting on the top plate. (seems odd to have it there anyway)

Also it can take a bit of wiggling to get the black fibre washers to sit down in the top panel, but once it there you shouldn't have any issues.

As for bolts sizes, unfortunately our American friends are yet to discover the metric system and refer to everything in relation to "almost, but not quite an inch" by odd number fractions of which divisions seems totally arbitrary.  If i asked my local hardware shop for a "#8-32 x 1-3/4 screw" i would get bemused looks...  If you really want to change it just replace the entire nut/bolt assembly with something metric that fits.  I think 8.32 is UNC speak for M4 x 0.7 thread, and 1-3/4" is ~ 45mm, so add a bit of length and buy 50mm or 55mm.

[JosephDuffy]

Hi Joseph,

With the blob of varnish sanded down so the white plastic insert fits flush it should all go together for you?

The only bolt that is slightly short on mine was the one holding the earthing tab (closest to mains connector), its only about 2/3rds of the way through the nut, and that bolt was fitted without the locking ring sitting on the top plate. (seems odd to have it there anyway)

Also it can take a bit of wiggling to get the black fibre washers to sit down in the top panel, but once it there you shouldn't have any issues.

As for bolts sizes, unfortunately our American friends are yet to discover the metric system and refer to everything in relation to "almost, but not quite an inch" by odd number fractions of which divisions seems totally arbitrary.  If i asked my local hardware shop for a "#8-32 x 1-3/4 screw" i would get bemused looks...  If you really want to change it just replace the entire nut/bolt assembly with something metric that fits.  I think 8.32 is UNC speak for M4 x 0.7 thread, and 1-3/4" is ~ 45mm, so add a bit of length and buy 50mm or 55mm.

I could probably sand it down a little further, but I'm scared to since it looks like the varnish is going to come off if I tighten the bolt/nut anyway so I don't it to be any more likely to come off and cause any issues.

I could probably fit it on without the top #8 lockwasher on the top (the one for the earth, which is the one I'm having issues with), so if it's confirmed that that's ok then I'll just remove that one. If not, I'll have to buy a few bolts and experiment.

For the record, this is the bolt holding the earthing tab, and it would work without one of the #8 lockwashers (which is on top of the bell end)

[mcandmar]

Yeah, ditch the locking ring on the top plate, that's what i did for mine.  I don't think it serves any purpose being there as the earthing tab functions as a locking ring anyway.  Why it was added there is a mystery to me, and looks fugly too.

Just to clarify, we are talking about the washer in this paragraph on p.14

( ) Slip a round #8 lockwasher over one 1-3/4

[Doc B.]

The lock washer on the bell end is to assure good electrical contact, as the entire transformer needs to be electrically connected to safety ground through that mounting screw. If the bell end is coated with paint the teeth of the washer will cut through it and touch the metal under the paint. That said, if the bell has not been coated with something that would insulate it, that washer is not as important.

[JosephDuffy]

The lock washer on the bell end is to assure good electrical contact, as the entire transformer needs to be electrically connected to safety ground through that mounting screw. If the bell end is coated with paint the teeth of the washer will cut through it and touch the metal under the paint. That said, if the bell has not been coated with something that would insulate it, that washer is not as important.

Wonderful, thanks! I've not modified any parts (other than sanding down the coating on the transformer on the top and bottom), so I'll make sure the screws are tight so try and help with the earthing. Is there a way I can test to make sure I've not compromised anything? If this is part of the testing anyway then don't worry, I guess I'll be doing it anyway

Thanks for all the help, Doc B., it's very much appreciated!

[mcandmar]

The lock washer on the bell end is to assure good electrical contact, as the entire transformer needs to be electrically connected to safety ground through that mounting screw. If the bell end is coated with paint the teeth of the washer will cut through it and touch the metal under the paint. That said, if the bell has not been coated with something that would insulate it, that washer is not as important.

Ok now it makes sense, and funny you should mention it i did clear coat my bell.  I'll try to put the washer back back in but i'm almost certain the bolt wont be long enough, as per the issue Joseph had.  The bottom side of the bell however is uncoated so it should still create a good electrical connection.

[Grainger49]

   .  .  .    As for bolts sizes, unfortunately our American friends are yet to discover the metric system   .  .  .   

Not true.  We have been "officially" on the metric system by Congressional decree since 1895.  We just choose to ignore it.  Our Engineering departments all are metric.

[Doc B.]

Actually when we started doing this 20 years ago it was simply cheaper and easier to get standard hardware than metric, and since so many parts are shared by the kits we have stayed with it. Americans with technical training are pretty much multidimensional beings, we are trained in both systems. Except for carpenters.

[Grainger49]

   .  .  .    we are trained in both systems. Except for carpenters. 

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi244.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg7%2FGrainger49%2FSmiles%2FROLF.gif&hash=d8c25de5059c9863b539eef0d5a5f9c5fb975e51)(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi244.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg7%2FGrainger49%2FSmiles%2FROLF.gif&hash=d8c25de5059c9863b539eef0d5a5f9c5fb975e51)(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi244.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg7%2FGrainger49%2FSmiles%2FROLF.gif&hash=d8c25de5059c9863b539eef0d5a5f9c5fb975e51)


I have spent the last two weeks getting the horribly installed tile on my first floor replaced.  The guys who did it this time were Craftsmen!  The originals were drunks (I kid not!).  The new guys even straightened out a bad angle that would have looked bad with parallel and perpendicular tile.  They took 2.5 hours to lay it out then it was awesome!

The carpenters.... well.... 'nuff said!

[mcandmar]

Thats true carpenters use their fingers.  ....to measure, not to count

[2wo]

Besides, whats a guy to do. Around here the supply of 50.8 X 101.6's, has all but dried up...John

[JosephDuffy]

Just wanted to double check a couple more things, then I think I'm done.

On page 17 it states "Clip the black lead to 1" (25mm) and install some heat shrink tubing over the end". Does that mean to expose the wire to 1", or cut the entire wire to 1", and then cover the entire wire in heat shrink tubing and (using a soldering iron) have the plastic shrink on to the black wire?

Finally, for the voltages on page 39, I'm in the UK and have 240V mains, so will I have to adjust any of the readings here, or does the transformer mean that I shouldn't have to alter anything on this page?

Thanks again for everyone who's helped me! We're nearly there

[Doc B.]

Since you are not using that black wire you are trying to make it so that the cut end can't short against anything. The logical way to do this is to cut it short and slip some heat shrink over the cut end to insulate it. Cut the wire to 1" long. Slip 1-1/4" of heat shrink on in such a way that 1/4" is left hanging off the end of the wire. When you heat it, it will shrink down and grab the wire, the excess off the end making it so nothing can get within 1/4" of the cut wire end.