Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Crack => Topic started by: i luvmusic 2 on July 18, 2014, 04:16:14 PM
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Hi,
I opened my email today and guess what i've got,A shipping confirmation for my CRACK and SB.......YAY i'am soo excited.
What is the best way to approach this build?Should i build the CRACK stock form with no MOD or build the CRACK and SB at the same time?My thought is to build it stock but i would like to know if their is any extra steps to make my SB installations a little easier later.Any suggestions are welcome THANK YOU!
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Let me be the first. Bone stock, then add bit by bit. You get a baseline for the sound. If you have a problem with the stock build, PB will get you going in no time.
I know you want to skip ahead but in the end, this way is more fun...John
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Much easier to troubleshoot if You build stock first.
And You can enjoy listening to the crack while taking Your time building the speedball boards.
It is somewhat harder to solder the speedball, everything is on a smaller scale, check that all solders conduct to avoid problems like burning transistors and other annoying issues.
You won' regret it, IMHO, enjoy!
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THANK YOU! That's what i thought STOCK first.Thanks!
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After my issues with my speedball upgrade, I totally agree with building the Crack base kit first. In retrospect, I now know that it would have been a nightmare trying to troubleshoot if I built the speedball and crack as one.
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Good thing i asked first before my Crack arrived and start building the crack and speedball at the sametime,That would be a nightmare for a newbie like me.I should be receiving my Crack next week it's on it's way. ;D
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Since the site was down for few days i decided to sand and prime/spray painted the sides of the crack transformer i hope this is not a bad thing.
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Crack Manual page 19 this is what it reads,At the uneven end route the wires under the
terminal strip behind the nine pin socket. Attach and solder the black wire to A9. Insert the red wire end through A5 and then A4, and solder both A4 and A5.MEANING A4 and A5 IS SHORTED?THANKS!
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Yes, as the directions specify and the photos display, A4 and A5 need to be wired together.
Painting the transformer is OK, a little bit of light sanding is also OK, but it's best to leave as much varnish on there as possible.
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I just want to make sure B4 i screw it up and i sanded the transformer sides a little bit just to removed some bumpy stuff.THANK YOU!
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OMG it took me 12 hours to build the CRACK i was always checking and double checking every step but still i screwed up 3 times anyway i'am done all i have to do now is decide what finish i have to use for the base.All my resistance are all with in the spec. and the voltage check is with in spec. so far i like what i'am hearing with this AMP and it's dead silent too.Few more weeks it will be the Speedball going in but for now i want to enjoy the amp in stock form.
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Since the crack is running a little warm would it help to run cool if i disconnect both tube heaters from the transformer and used my existing external DC Power Supply for my tube adapters?
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For a couple of $ you can replace the stock feet with rubber doorstops which give the Crack about a inch ground clearance which really helps with ventilation. I don't think it looks out of keeping myself but I am sure many will be repulsed by the idea.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.head-fi.org%2Fa%2Fa9%2F900x900px-LL-a9e2e876_010.jpeg&hash=9ba1d68bfbcb9e6df20b3b6b02c703fa9fe3ebf0)
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I should give that a try once i'am done finishing the base,Thank You!
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Since the crack is running a little warm would it help to run cool if i disconnect both tube heaters from the transformer and used my existing external DC Power Supply for my tube adapters?
Is it the power transformer, or the entire Crack?
Powering the heaters externally will reduce the load on the power transformer a little bit, but I would imagine that the amp overall will run just as hot. (Do note that the power transformer is not all that taxed by the Crack circuit).
If you're using an external DC supply for heating, a 6 to 6.3V supply at 4.5-6A is optimal.
-PB
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Just for the tube heaters i'am thinking to disconnect those heater wires from the Crack transformer to lighten the transformer load maybe it will help to run cooler.In you guys opinion thus this make sense? Thanks!
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The tubes require a specific amount of energy to operate, and no matter where it comes from they will produce the same amount of heat. Unless your heater supply is more efficient you will generate essentially the same amount of heat with an external power supply as you will by using the existing power transformer.
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Since you said you haven't finished your base, have you put the supplied feet on your base?
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These are my measurements result after my CRACK Build and i do have some concerns some are low and some are a bit high all my resistance readings are spot on except for the RCA Jacks center pin L 86.7K R 95.6K ground lug 0 and the voltage reading are as follows below.
Does the small amount of over or under voltage over/under the specified voltage in the manual will make a deference in performance of the CRACK Amp?
Term.1=77.5V
2=176.1V
3=0
4=175.9V
5=79.5V
6=0
7=101.5V
8=0
9=104.7V
10=0
11=0
12=0
13=174.8V
14=0
15=195.6V
20=0
21=216.6V(it should be 206V)
A1=78.9V(it should be 90V)
A2=0
A4=0
A5=0
A6=76 (it should be 90V)
A7=0
A9=0
B1=76.5V(it should be 90V)
B2=174.5V
B3=101.6V
B4=78.8V(it should be 90V)
B5=174.5V
B6=104.7V
B7=0
B8=0
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Thank you! all for the replies and yes the base feet are installed.
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From the manual -
Don’t worry if your voltages are not exactly these figures. Line voltage variations and tube tolerance variations can change them by up to 10-15%.
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Again Thank You!
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I gotta admit patience will take you along way when it comes to building this KIT or possibly all sort of kits.I've checked and double checked each steps and i still managed to screw up few times i soldered where i should not be soldering and put wires on top where it should be in the bottom terminal,I looked at the manual several times when it comes to installing those Caps and Diodes I have one extra piece of #6 lock washer for the 9 pin socket i could not fit it in place due to the socket i used. It took me 12 hours to build the KIT but in the end all my testing it went really smooth no issue at all or maybe i was lucky.THANK YOU! Bottlehead for the nice manual and a excellent sounding AMP(CRACK)and all the support from all of you here.THANK YOU! ;)
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Here is mine i'am not sure what kind of finish/look i want for the base so many nice looking base to choose from.
https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1164239/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL
(http://)https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1164235/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL
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Just for the tube heaters i'am thinking to disconnect those heater wires from the Crack transformer to lighten the transformer load maybe it will help to run cooler.In you guys opinion thus this make sense? Thanks!
The transformer may run a little bit cooler, but otherwise there will be no change. IIRC, the PT-3 is rated to run with 3.5A of load on the 6.3V winding. The stock Crack uses about 2.8A of that current. On the high voltage side, the headroom is substantially higher.
-PB
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Thank You for the info!
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I need help for the MJE350 for Speedball PCB A&B the picture on the manual is deferent from what i received mine don't have the metallic side so i don't know which is the back or the front on my MJE350.The MJE350 markings are Fg D37 MJE350 and on the other side there is a mark (A) on left top corner,Can anyone please tell me which side i have to orient the MJE350 on the A and B speedball PCB?Thank You!
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Another question about SB PCB A and B D1 and D2 is it connected in series?I soldered the 2 leads in between the two LED together.
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I need help for the MJE350 for Speedball PCB A&B the picture on the manual is deferent from what i received mine don't have the metallic side so i don't know which is the back or the front on my MJE350.The MJE350 markings are Fg D37 MJE350 and on the other side there is a mark (A) on left top corner,Can anyone please tell me which side i have to orient the MJE350 on the A and B speedball PCB?Thank You!
The metal side is the side without writing. (See the sticky about MJE350's)
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Another question about SB PCB A and B D1 and D2 is it connected in series?I soldered the 2 leads in between the two LED together.
D1 and D2 are in series.
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THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
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Hi'
Questions For those of you who installed Film Caps,Attenuator and the Speedball.I would like to do these upgrades but i have no idea Which one to do first i would like to install one at a time listen to it then do the next upgrade.Is it easier if i do the Attenuator followed By the Caps and then the Speedball?In what order did you guys installed your upgrades?looking at the underside of the amp it looks Like the Speedball will cover most of the terminal access.Thanks!
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I would suggest the order of speedball, attenuator and then caps
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Hi,
I just need to finish my speedball MJE350 soldering and it will be ready for installations i got confused last night regarding the MJE350 orientation so i stopped.If i install the SB i still have easy access for most of the terminal connections for the Caps and attenuator without removing the SB? THANK YOU!
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Yes access is more limited but totally doable with the speedball installed and its always possible just to removed the speedball mounting screws after its all wired up and gently ease the boards over for a little better access if required. You will most probably find you don't need to.
Depending on the type of attenuator you plan to use take a look at the connecting wires some of the attenuators have the connections on the top and are quiet tall which may mean a couple of the original wires are tight for length and either require a little re-routing or replacing with longer ones to reach you will see in the pics below. Like the black wire that goes from the pot to terminal 3L page 22 of the manual is much easier to change if required without the speedball in place.
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1013226/width/900/height/675/flags/LL)
(https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1013227/width/900/height/675/flags/LL)
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So most likely everything will be a tight fit,by looking at your pictures the Attenuator is pretty close to the small PCB.Thanks!
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Hi,
I replaced the pot with the attenuator and i have a concern about my resistance reading for T13 instead of reading up like how it was with the stock pot.Now it reads backwards then reads back up again.From 22 meg counting down then when it reach down to 40 ohms it start to read up again up to 270 k and up.Is this normal if you used a attenuator?Thanks!
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I'am done soldering my Speedball but before i install it i want to make sure that i get this right.The metal tab for the MJE350 their should be no continuity between the heat sink or the bolt?Thanks!
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The metal tab of the TIP-50 should have no continuity to the bolt or the heatsink.
-PB
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The MJE350 does not have a heatsink.
If you mean the TIP50, then yes, the metal tab should be electrically isolated from the heatsink.
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Sorry my bad,It's the TIP 50 good i checked and it's isolated no short on the bolt or the heat sink i don't recall reading this type of testing on the manual i think it's good to do this before you install the component but i could be wrong.THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
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I do feel like mentioning here that the Speedball has been shipping for about 4 years now, and only in the past few months have we seen instances of shoulder washers and thermal insulating pads being left off or just not installed correctly.
What it really boils down to is taking the time to either post on the forum or call us to ask about the shoulder washers if you aren't sure, or just doing something like a Google image seach on "shoulder washer" to read up a bit more and increase your confidence. We do also use shoulder washers in the basic Crack kit for a similar purpose, so some familiarity is gained in the initial build that can be carried over into building the Speeball.
We aren't generally in the habit of justifying every step that we write in our manuals, as they are all quite important, and such conversations typically take place here instead.
-PB
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Just finish installing the Speedball and WOW love it........ :) :D ;D ;)
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Here is mine,I would like to show you what i accomplished in the past few weeks since i received the CRACK and SPEEDBALL.THANK YOU all for your help and advised again thank You!It is time for me to enjoy this wonderful amplifier. ;D
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I put back the 23 stepped attenuator to solved the channel imbalanced in my Crack amp and i just found out that my comfortable listening volume level is between 5 and 6 Clicks.Does anyone have the same problem?Any suggestions?THANKS!
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What is the problem with listening at 5 or 6 clicks?
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On 5th clicks sound low if i go 6 clicks it sound loud to my liking.Any position below 5th it sound too low for me and past 6th is too loud.
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If i will reinstall the stock pot or the ALPS pot what can i do to solved the channel imbalanced?Thanks!
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See Crack FAQ #3
http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=4295.msg39600#msg39600 (http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=4295.msg39600#msg39600)
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I was planning on installing the the Alps Blue Velvet pot as a solution for the imbalanced in low volumes..
Are you saying only a stepped attenuator can fix that? (Besides the FAQ solution...)
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Thank You PB!
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Alps Blue velvet did not fixed The channel imbalanced the Attenuator does but my comfortable listening level is not matching the 23 stepped attenuator's settings.
I found a 48 stepped attenuator but it's not cheap $179 @ PartscoX104.I will do The resistor mod instead.
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I still think you could just listen at step 6 and call it a day.
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I could but honestly i prefer the sound of the STOCK POT or the ALPS BLUE.
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Would it be that bad playing with the volume of your music source?
Put it on 6 and decrease the volume from a 100% to 95% or something on your music source.
About the attenuators, I was really sure that everybody replace the stock pot because of the imbalanced issue now I see its only for sonic benefits..
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My crack is humming if no input signal or if i unplug the RCA Cables the hum starts once the pot is at 10 o'clock and it gets louder as it reach the max volume.If the signal is present the CRACK is dead silent even the pot is on max no hum.
Thanks!
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The proper way to check hum is to short the inputs at the RCA jacks. You can either use jumpers or shorting plugs. The open RCA jacks can pick up noise. Give that a try and report back.
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The proper way to check hum is to short the inputs at the RCA jacks. You can either use jumpers or shorting plugs. The open RCA jacks can pick up noise. Give that a try and report back.
Hi Grainger49,
I used a test clips and shorted the input RCA jacks like you described and if they're shorted(Centre pin to outer sleeve)no noise/dead quiet and if i removed the test clips on the outer sleeve of the rca jack leaved the test clips clipped onto the centre pin of the rca jack i can hear the music playing even though these rca jacks are not plug in to my source and if i touch the test clips that is clipped onto the centre pin the noise it gets really loud.So i guess i'am picking up interference.
THANK YOU!
I just unplug the jumpers from the rca centre pin and the music disappeared but the noise gets louder.
Thanks again!
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I think the noise is caused by something outside of the Crack. Are there any other electrical devices near it?
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Could one of your tubes be going bad?
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I think the noise is caused by something outside of the Crack. Are there any other electrical devices near it?
Yes there are some HP amps,DAC and a laptop.I moved the CRACK and plug it away from any other electronics to see if still picking up some noise and it still noisy no changes,Could it be some kind of internal problem?The amp was dead quiet before i did the Cree diodes This recently occurs right after i installed the CREE DIODES.
Thanks!
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.head-fi.org%2Fa%2Fa8%2F900x900px-LL-a8c7dc2c_DSC_4034.jpeg&hash=cd69e46eb0db1ff91986dd2d4a52e982f696a25b)
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Could one of your tubes be going bad?
I don't think if it is tube related because that is the first thing i did changed both tubes several times.
Thanks!
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Not to put too fine a point on it but if the noise started when you put the diodes in, take them out.
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Yeah i thought about re-installing the stock diodes but then i really like the Cree sound.
I will be installing a new set of PCB and Cree Diodes to see if this will solve the noise issue(hopefully).I even tried to re- flow some of the Solder joints and this did not changed anything.
Thank You!
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I've changed the Cree Diodes and PCB the noise is GONE.