Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => S.E.X. Kit => Topic started by: i luvmusic 2 on October 09, 2014, 01:08:14 PM
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Hi!
Since i painted all the TRANSFORMERS for the SEX Kit,For the choke and the Output Transformers do i need to scrape some of the paint on the TAB so the screws can have a contact on the transformers?
THANKS!
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Yes.
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THANK YOU!
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I just finished my SEX KIT just now and i'am loving it so far.........
I finished it without any issue/problem.
THANK YOU!Bottlehead for such a nice KIT (SEX and CRACK for me).
THANK YOU!
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I installed the Imp. switch last night then put the switch into 4 ohms tap the amp gets very quiet no more slight HUM,I tried 4 and 8 ohms taps they are both quiet but i prefer 8 ohms tap to my ears it have a little more bass than the 4 ohms tap.
Installed the C4S this morning and fired up the amp to my surprised everything sounded really good.
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Hi!
My DAC have a Balanced output so i would like to use that for the S.E.X. amp input,I would like to know how to rewire the RCA input to 3 pin XLR(Balanced Input)?I'am thinking of running the S.E.X. in full Balanced by using Balanced Input and Output(I have the Imp.switch installed).Do i need to replace the POT or it's ok to used the existing pot for my intended applications?
Thanks You!
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My DAC have a Balanced output so i would like to use that for the S.E.X. amp input,
I would have to ask why? There are certainly times when a balanced output is useful, but this is generally when you have a very long run of cables between components. Depending on the component, the balanced outputs can sound worse.
I would like to know how to rewire the RCA input to 3 pin XLR(Balanced Input)?
You will need a pair of 10K:10K input transformers. I like Sowter 3575's, which are $160 per pair.
I'am thinking of running the S.E.X. in full Balanced by using Balanced Input and Output(I have the Imp.switch installed).Do i need to replace the POT or it's ok to used the existing pot for my intended applications?
You'd want to add loading resistors to the output side of the 10K transformers, but the pot will work fine.
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The reason i want to run everything in Balanced the HD650 and SEX sounds good in balanced (to my ears) and since the DAC is capable of balanced that is why i thought about it.
If i need to buy the Sowter 3575 just to run in balanced without knowing if these MOD will make the SEX sound better or worst for now i will leaved the SEX amp the way it is It's already a good sounding amp.
THANK YOU!
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Yeah, it's fairly easy to make an acceptable balanced output on a single-ended circuit, but an acceptable balanced input is much more difficult - you need either a transformer or a different tube circuit with at least one more triode per channel.
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I thought it was that easy.
Thank you for your reply!
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I screwed up this resistor,Is it safe to run the amp like this while i'am waiting for the replacement?
THANK YOU!
(http://) https://www.head-fi.org/content/type/61/id/1235009/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL
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I want to replace the Solen 1.5uf 630V caps with this Mundorf 1.5uf 600V is it safe to use this 600V caps.THANK YOU!
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Yes, 600v is close enough to 630v to be no problem. Don't go lower in voltage, however. IIRC, Mundorf also makes some 800v caps - I've never heard any report on their sound as parafeed outputs but I'd be interested to hear from anyone ...
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Yes, 600v is close enough to 630v to be no problem. Don't go lower in voltage, however. IIRC, Mundorf also makes some 800v caps - I've never heard any report on their sound as parafeed outputs but I'd be interested to hear from anyone ...
I used the Mundorf Silver/Oil in mine and found them a very nice improvement over the Solens, specifically better high end and low end extension which were a little rolled off with the stock caps. I chose the Silver/Oil on the basis of many caps roundup reviews i read all pegged them as being the most neutral sounding of the Mundorf range. The fact i haven't changed a thing with the amp since then really speaks to how happy i am with them. I do have a pair of Jupiter flat stacked wax caps to try at some stage too, they popped up on eBay at a price i couldn't resist ::)
http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=5316.msg53501#msg53501 (http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=5316.msg53501#msg53501)
Loquah installed the Silver/Gold/Oil versions into his which are known for being warmer in the mid range, which coincidentally is exactly how he characterized them at the bottom of his post below.
https://www.head-fi.org/t/683012/bottlehead-amplifier-discussion-comparison-thread-crack-sex-mainline#post_9831527 (https://www.head-fi.org/t/683012/bottlehead-amplifier-discussion-comparison-thread-crack-sex-mainline#post_9831527)
You did ask...
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Yes, 600v is close enough to 630v to be no problem. Don't go lower in voltage, however. IIRC, Mundorf also makes some 800v caps - I've never heard any report on their sound as parafeed outputs but I'd be interested to hear from anyone ...
THANK YOU!
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I used the Mundorf Silver/Oil in mine and found them a very nice improvement over the Solens, specifically better high end and low end extension which were a little rolled off with the stock caps. I chose the Silver/Oil on the basis of many caps roundup reviews i read all pegged them as being the most neutral sounding of the Mundorf range. The fact i haven't changed a thing with the amp since then really speaks to how happy i am with them. I do have a pair of Jupiter flat stacked wax caps to try at some stage too, they popped up on eBay at a price i couldn't resist ::)
http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=5316.msg53501#msg53501 (http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=5316.msg53501#msg53501)
Loquah installed the Silver/Gold/Oil versions into his which are known for being warmer in the mid range, which coincidentally is exactly how he characterized them at the bottom of his post below.
https://www.head-fi.org/t/683012/bottlehead-amplifier-discussion-comparison-thread-crack-sex-mainline#post_9831527 (https://www.head-fi.org/t/683012/bottlehead-amplifier-discussion-comparison-thread-crack-sex-mainline#post_9831527)
You did ask...
I was going to use the Mundorf 1.5uf 600V Supreme which is less expensive than what you have used but now i changed my mind i might used something else too many caps to chose from.
Thanks!
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There really isn't a whole lot of options over 600v that dont break the bank. There a bunch of different cap round up tests you should read through first before making up your mind, when you read 3-4 different reviews you will start to get a good idea of the flavor of each brand/model.
I bought a pair of these to try as i have used them before with good results, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261593528750?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261593528750?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT), only problem is they are huge at 2" x 5". I should have known really as all the Russian caps usually are.
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Need help for DEAD Left channel,tubes are ok both tubes works on right channel.I saw a smoke,blown the fuse left side smells burnt.I replaced the fused and turned it back on both tubes lights up but left channel is dead.
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Need help for DEAD Left channel,tubes are ok both tubes works on right channel.I saw a smoke,blown the fuse left side smells burnt.I replaced the fused and turned it back on both tubes lights up but left channel is dead.
Resistance checks, if that doesn't find anything post a few pics. I would hold off on powering up again until you trace the magic smoke.
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Resistance checks, if that doesn't find anything post a few pics. I would hold off on powering up again until you trace the magic smoke.
Resistance check is all good but C4S board B LED's are dead.
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The engineer in me is asking "what did you change last?"
If you visibly inspect all the resistors can you see any burnt or discolored?
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The engineer in me is asking "what did you change last?"
If you visibly inspect all the resistors can you see any burnt or discolored?
No discolored but i found the resistor connected to T16 and T20 is touching the 0.1uf cap lead connected to T19.The 0.1 caps are the last two capacitors that i replaced.C4S Board B side LED's are dead.
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What i think that did was connect the start of the power supply ~420v to the anode of the 1st tube stage, which would have shorted the output side of the C4S board to the B+. I dont really know how much damage that would do to the C4S board, it may have zapped all of it :-\
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I just double checked the resistance and all are with in spec just to make sure.Is there a way to test the C4S Board if it is functioning properly?
Thanks!
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Not that i know of. If your multimeter has a diode test function you could check the LED's, you should get no reading in one direction, and with the leads reversed you should get a voltage reading ~1.55v while it lights up. If you get no reading in either direction they need replaced.
Transistors would probably need removed from the board to test them, and ideally a transistor tester to check them.
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It looks like the easiest solution is to replace the C4S.Before i order the replacement board maybe i should disconnect the board and put back the resistor where it was to make sure the amp is functioning properly.I don't want anymore surprises.
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Maybe you could post your voltages?
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I used the Mundorf Silver/Oil in mine and found them a very nice improvement over the Solens, specifically better high end and low end extension which were a little rolled off with the stock caps. I chose the Silver/Oil on the basis of many caps roundup reviews i read all pegged them as being the most neutral sounding of the Mundorf range. The fact i haven't changed a thing with the amp since then really speaks to how happy i am with them.
I'm still building my 2.1 but decided to leave the stock Solen parafeed cap alone and change the .1 interstage cap with a .1uf/630 volt Theta film and foil AudioCap from Parts Express. I took this advice from another Bottlehead, I think it was Cary. I spent the lions share of my "mad money" on pre-ordering a Bottlehead DAC. I might get something more exotic in the future. Or I may absolutely love the Solen/Theta combination. Time will tell I guess.
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Maybe you could post your voltages?
Sorry! for the late reply.
i have checked the RESISTANCE and VOLTAGE they are all good,The C4S board B side is definitely DEAD/FRIED everything was discolored and smells burnt.I just ordered a new C4S kit from eileen few days ago.The amp is working fine without the C4S but i miss that sound with C4S hopefully i will received my new kit soon I can't wait.
THANK YOU GUYS for all your HELP!
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I need help the LEFT CHANNEL just died,By inserting the Headphone Jack halfway both channel will work if the jack is inserted all the way in only right channel works.
Thanks in advanced!
Here are my Voltage readings.
Terminal
1 220V
2 0
3 0
4 440V
5 220V
6,16 420V / -0.639
7,17 0
8,18 0
9,19 19.5V / -0.435
10,20 440V / 441V
11,21 402V / -0.695
12,22 0
13,23 0
14,24 0
15,25 17.60V / 1.2V
A1,B1 close to zero
A2,B2 396V / -0.702
A3,B3 17.60V / 1.2V
A4,B4 0 / -19
A5,B5 83V / -0.718
A6,B6 2.6V / 0.99
A7,B7 -2.8V / 2.8V
A8,B8 2.9 / 2.9V
C1 -3.26V
C2 3.08V
C3 0
C4 -3.30V
C5 3.30V
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The plate choke goes between terminals 20 and 21, and drops about 40 volts when operatiing correctly. It appears that this connection is not happening. As always, check those solder joints first - its the easiest and most often successful test. Then measure the resistance between those two terminals; I forget the exact number but it must be around 1000 ohms.
The above is incorrect - see later post. I apologize!
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I forget the exact number but it must be around 1000 ohms.
IIRC, they are around 930 Ohms.
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Thanks! for the reply.
I reflow the solder T20 and T21 and measure the resistance the reading is 18.45M and dropping.
Thanks!
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While i'am at it i measured the resistor connected to T6 and T10 the reading is 674R and resistor connected to T16 and T20 the reading is 11.79M and going up.I don't know if this help because my electronic knowledge is limited.
Thanks!
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Sorry, I mis-remembered the wiring, which is I admit complicated.
Your last measurement was extremely helpful. That resistor from T16 to T20 is blown. It probably happened due to the short circuit of high voltage T20 to the power triode grid T19 - this would cause the triode to conduct very excessive current, blowing the resistor quickly. I don't recall mention of a blown fuse, so the resistor probably went out faster than the fuse could react.
The plate choke I mentioned before goes from T16 to B2. It is probably OK, but measure the resistance to be sure.
The blown resistor means no voltage is supplied to the PC board, hence no LED glow. The board is probably OK - you won't know until the resistor is replaced and power is restored.
The tube is probably OK, the current surge would have been short and the tube is tough. Voltage checks after power is restored will determine whether there's a problem.
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I will check it tomorrow.
THANK YOU!
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Hi,
So i measured T6 and A2 reading is 840R and 842R for T16 and B2.220R Carbon Comp. Resistor connected to T19 and B1 is cooked,Can i replaced this with Metal Film instead?
Thanks!
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While carbon comp is theoretically better, there is evidence that metal film works well, and they are much sturdier. Do not use wirewound though.
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While carbon comp is theoretically better, there is evidence that metal film works well, and they are much sturdier. Do not use wirewound though.
Metal Film is the only type i can access in that value locally.
Thanks!
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You can get them from Mouser -> http://www.mouser.ie/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=OD221JEvirtualkey58810000virtualkey588-OD221JE (http://www.mouser.ie/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=OD221JEvirtualkey58810000virtualkey588-OD221JE)
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You can get them from Mouser -> http://www.mouser.ie/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=OD221JEvirtualkey58810000virtualkey588-OD221JE (http://www.mouser.ie/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=OD221JEvirtualkey58810000virtualkey588-OD221JE)
yeah i just ordered it with some other sfuff.
THANKS!
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I didn't expect the SEX will drive my SANSUI SP-X6900,Not to the full potential of this speaker but it sound darn good. ;D