Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Legacy Kit Products => Quickie => Topic started by: mkane on February 25, 2015, 04:06:00 AM
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Voltage readings A5 275mv
A6 2.8v
B5 1.9v
B6 27v Something's amiss with A side. Seems like it should be so easy.??????????
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Is this with the PJ CCS?
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It is and I think I've found the problem.White wire was connected to U2 when it's suppose to go to A2. Volts on A side are a bit high but it's better than a few mv. No sound from A side
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A6 /36.9A
B6/36V
A5/2.9V
B5/1.9v
There is just a hum, no sound?
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Those #6 pins should read 19-21V
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These 4.02 resistors, in my build the yellow stripe is @ the bottom. The pic looks as though the stripe is at the top. Does this matter?
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll58%2FMKane63t%2F001_zpss5qnzmz1.jpg&hash=6fcfeb5ca41e0740be153e6eae89e6056ec64a30) (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/MKane63t/media/001_zpss5qnzmz1.jpg.html)
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Resistors are not directional. As long as you install yhe right one orientation does not matter
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Thanks but still no love
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Post photos of the board if possible.
-PB
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Anythings possible around here,
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll58%2FMKane63t%2F002_zpseplmgntz.jpg&hash=2c7451cf18b87287525125f4833ed76acffe8c0c) (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/MKane63t/media/002_zpseplmgntz.jpg.html)
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I'm going to need a few beer's when this get sorted and I thought yesterday was stressful
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It's tough to tell, but be sure the UF4007's are oriented correctly.
Also, the PJCCS on the Quickie 1.1 won't work unless the D cell batteries are properly oriented.
-PB
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Banded leads into square pad-check. Is battery orientation any different running without this upgrade?
Voltage is thru the roof on A6/B6 36.9 on both sides. Spec calls for 19-21
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll58%2FMKane63t%2F005_zpstlohwy26.jpg&hash=611804de5f4c579efc0e798b75936b889ef0433f) (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/MKane63t/media/005_zpstlohwy26.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll58%2FMKane63t%2F004_zpsgyukt1m9.jpg&hash=9cd816bc29891370fa69889ea39c3b87bcf37426) (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/MKane63t/media/004_zpsgyukt1m9.jpg.html)
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Nothing from side A. Bit of touch up and there's no hum, B side work's. Voltage still a bit high.
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I'll take one stab here. See the solder joint 'IA' . Hard to see from the photo, but it may need a bit more solder. I feel your frustration, as I have done a few of these and wonder how the hell I ever ended up with a problem with such a seemingly simple circuit.
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I'll give that a go after my first cup.
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Voltage readings. 1A/4.2V
1B/3.2V spec's are 38v
A6/36V
B6/25V spec's are 19-21
A5/2.8
B5/1.8 spec's are 2VDC I've gone over the build process countless times. B side plays music
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I can't really make it out from the photo, but is the A side MJE350 (Q2), damaged? Almost looks like there is piece of the case missing.
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(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll58%2FMKane63t%2F001_zpscx6gp1l1.jpg&hash=f48de91e667aa0e3e8a24df81cfe970ce27bacff) (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/MKane63t/media/001_zpscx6gp1l1.jpg.html)
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What if I flipped this board, b to a, a to b to be sure it's the board not the quickie. I would just remove the upgrade and see if the quickie still works but I cut the caps short that were between 1 & 2/ 5 & 6 U .
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A mistake by me that no one could see. We now have music. Glorius sounding music, spinning 'Crises' by Mike Oldfield. The darn jumper wire on the A side was in the wrong hole!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bring on the Bee Pre.
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Sometimes we (the community) don't need to be right, we just have to keep you from getting discouraged!
Good job.
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If at you first don't succeed, try, try again. Thank's
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One pointer if you don't mind. Print the manual in color, it makes things MUCH easier during assembly. Btw, the BeePre is a loooooooong build, in case you didn't already know.
Glad to see you wrapped up your first kit and are enjoying it. 8)
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One pointer if you don't mind. Print the manual in color, it makes things MUCH easier during assembly.
Just another data point! I print the assembly pages of the manual in grayscale to make notes and check off progress. I like to have the PDF on my laptop to be able to enlarge and zoom in on the pics for detail. A hybrid approach! ;) Especially helpful on the boards!
Cheers,
Geary
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All suggestions noted. Our printer's a lazer unit and only B&W. I did not have the wife double check my work. I use a 10x magnifier to examine details close up. Some of my solder joints, while cooling turn that dull silver look. I'm afraid of heating things up to much. Can damage occur to these fragile electrical components with to much heat soak?
In the future I'll limit these all niter's trying to get er' done.
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Some of my solder joints, while cooling turn that dull silver look. I'm afraid of heating things up to much
A better way to do it is to make a mechanical connection before soldering (half a wrap, then crimp with your needle nose pliers), then use a tiny bit of solder to fill in between the two. (like mortar in a brick and mortar wall) Using less solder requires a lot less heat.
If you just pass leads through the terminal holes, then expect to use a lot of solder to hold it there, you'll end up with an unreliable build that also won't quite sound as good.
-PB
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That's a great tip, something I'll never forget. As if this could sound better! I might just buy some terminal strips, a few resistors and a bit of wire and redo this part. I've already ordered some Clarity cap's MR Series as I can't leave well enough alone. It really pushes the Stereomour up a notch.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll58%2FMKane63t%2F002_zpsl78a8pju.jpg&hash=57faa01d62bd8d3fbe5b9dbbf280b70980ee6800) (http://s285.photobucket.com/user/MKane63t/media/002_zpsl78a8pju.jpg.html)