Quickie Upgrade [Solved]

[mkane]

  I'll give that a go after my first cup.

[mkane]

  Voltage readings.   1A/4.2V
                                1B/3.2V  spec's are 38v
                               
                                A6/36V
                                B6/25V    spec's are 19-21
                         
                                A5/2.8
                                B5/1.8     spec's are 2VDC                      I've gone over the build process countless times. B side plays music
 

[Doc B.]

I can't really make it out from the photo, but is the A side MJE350 (Q2), damaged?  Almost looks like there is piece of the case missing.

[mkane]

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[mkane]

  What if I flipped this board, b to a, a to b to be sure it's the board not the quickie.  I would just remove the upgrade and see if the quickie still works but I cut the caps short that were between 1 & 2/ 5 & 6 U .

[mkane]

    A mistake by me that no one could see. We now have music. Glorius sounding music, spinning 'Crises' by Mike Oldfield. The darn jumper wire on the A side was in the wrong hole!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bring on the Bee Pre.

[Paul Joppa]

Sometimes we (the community) don't need to be right, we just have to keep you from getting discouraged!

Good job.

[mkane]

  If at you first don't succeed, try, try again. Thank's

[marantzfan]

One pointer if you don't mind.  Print the manual in color, it makes things MUCH easier during assembly.  Btw, the BeePre is a loooooooong build, in case you didn't already know.

Glad to see you wrapped up your first kit and are enjoying it.   

[galyons]

One pointer if you don't mind.  Print the manual in color, it makes things MUCH easier during assembly. 

Just another data point! I print the assembly pages of the manual in grayscale to make notes and check off progress.  I like to have the PDF on my laptop to be able to enlarge and zoom in on the pics for detail. A hybrid approach!    Especially helpful on the boards!

Cheers,
Geary

[mkane]

  All suggestions noted. Our printer's a lazer unit and only B&W. I did not have the wife double check my work. I use a 10x magnifier to examine details close up. Some of my solder joints, while cooling turn that dull silver look. I'm afraid of heating things up to much. Can damage occur to these fragile electrical components with to much heat soak?

  In the future I'll limit these all niter's trying to get er' done.

[Paul Birkeland]

Some of my solder joints, while cooling turn that dull silver look. I'm afraid of heating things up to much
 

A better way to do it is to make a mechanical connection before soldering (half a wrap, then crimp with your needle nose pliers), then use a tiny bit of solder to fill in between the two. (like mortar in a brick and mortar wall) Using less solder requires a lot less heat.

If you just pass leads through the terminal holes, then expect to use a lot of solder to hold it there, you'll end up with an unreliable build that also won't quite sound as good.

-PB

[mkane]

  That's a great tip, something I'll never forget. As if this could sound better! I might just buy some terminal strips, a few resistors and a bit of wire and redo this part. I've already ordered some Clarity cap's MR Series as I can't leave well enough alone. It really pushes the Stereomour up a notch.

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