Bottlehead Forum
Bottlehead Kits => Legacy Kit Products => Quicksand => Topic started by: ALL212 on July 25, 2014, 01:19:56 PM
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Wow! Very nice components. Nichicon caps all around!
1 question - can I use 3300uf caps in place of the 2200's? I've got some extra's I'd like to use.
And if I were to replace some electrolytics with film - where can I do the most good?
Thanks again for a quality kit.
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Build it stock first, otherwise you have no idea what you're upgrading.
Also, to peel back the curtain a bit, when PB built the first prototype, Doc thought it had promise but wasn't convinced. The biggest difference between that first prototype and the one that made Doc say it was a product was the caps you want to replace.
Food for thought.
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Very good - I'll try not to change much...maybe just wires... ::)
1st question - page 24 - red wire.
Directions say "Attach and solder one end to the front lug of the row furthest from the headphone jack..."
Picture shows attached to the row closest on the same row the battery wire comes in on.
Page 26 - the resistors that go on the headphone jack. Not on BOM and not in the kit. Just looks like an oversight. Also on the same page - 0 Ohm .4w resistors - is that the true value? Looks like Mouser 594-SFR25-0 ??
Look Ma! No changes!!! I would recommend not populating the board with too many components before soldering. Just do one or two at a time as it's crowded in there. Also the directions don't call out soldering the socket in but I'm sure you should. I would also put the IC socket in before C1 and C7. It's not easy to rotate that socket in with those two caps in there.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1854_zps30c546ee.jpg&hash=78864f78e34c9075f550e70d393d1fb8a532bd71) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1854_zps30c546ee.jpg.html)
So Far...oh, ya - I did change up the wire. ;D The input wire is Teflon over silver plated copper.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1859_zps215bc207.jpg&hash=93f44c2c4eef103335ac92d2c5ea02a9c1298b12) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1859_zps215bc207.jpg.html)
All soldering done except headphone jack resistors.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1860_zpsb724c66c.jpg&hash=14c71d85b13d5602251b7c7a69c26f2e2b23dc78) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1860_zpsb724c66c.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1862_zpsc9044279.jpg&hash=a96408dcc276b0dfe0c10d410acf326ac55c36d2) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1862_zpsc9044279.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1861_zps91b35b64.jpg&hash=66b560e2548de77fb49b7e640d7e8a4ecd6c4b3e) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1861_zps91b35b64.jpg.html)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1863_zps2b34049a.jpg&hash=66f39a36525c236449c6f69a1c8d446910546aa2) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1863_zps2b34049a.jpg.html)
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Pretty, but it seems to be a University of Georgia color scheme.
I particularly like the upgraded wire. It has true texture.
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A good plan for populating PCB's is to go low to high. add the resistors first, then the next smallest components, working up to the tallest caps...John
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A good plan for populating PCB's is to go low to high. add the resistors first, then the next smallest components, working up to the tallest caps...John
Agreed. That's how I do it too.
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So how does it sound? Are you using the Quickie with it?
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I've got to go get some batteries - I don't have a dozen of these. >:( Yes, Quickie will be used.
Additional thought - mount the 2200uf caps off the edge of the board (horizontal) instead of vertical so it's not so deep. My kit box won't work with them in that position.
Ordered the 0 ohm resistors and another set of 2200uf caps to remount horizontal. I really want to use that kit box!
Quickie had a leaker and wasn't so fine so I put new batteries in it. Shorted the headphone sides in the Quicksand to each other with other than 0 ohm resistors ::). Tested the power - 19v to VCC with switch on.
Wow...I'm going to leave it at that for the moment. I've got my AV123 ELT525's on them - not so efficient but sound very nice.
Wow... :D
Really... ;D
This is sooooo cool!! 8)
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Hooked up and playing...
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1866_zps082fd0fa.jpg&hash=96b41b21a7d1017a9796ce70c2ca31d41a2e829f) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1866_zps082fd0fa.jpg.html)
Cabinet is the original Stereomour case.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1865_zps9613eb1f.jpg&hash=b1f8a0515573649ace1049b00e76c10569fc7441) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1865_zps9613eb1f.jpg.html)
Equipment in front is with the Quick stuff.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1864_zps38ee79ba.jpg&hash=f2482c41d0b274c91a43c237ef8846ae07647388) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1864_zps38ee79ba.jpg.html)
Headphone use will wait until I have the resistors installed and all soldered in.
Sound? I have no complaints at all. Norah Jones sounds very close and oh....so nice! ;D
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It sure does look like we left out the headphone resistors on the BOM, we'll get that fixed.
Looks like you are also correct about the wire on page 24, we missed that one!
You lucked out on two red plates, that's a pretty sweet looking rig.
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As much as I'd like to say we remember the color of every chassis we send out - before anyone feigns great disappointment with the color panel they get - this was a lucky fluke.
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Got some time tonight to sit and listen and I cannot find anything wrong with this class D stuff. I can't say I've ever listened to any class D amps but I'm very satisfied with this system.
I bought the speakers from AV123 just before they closed for cheap and my total cost on this listening experience is under $500. :o I am very happy and impressed with it.
Thanks again Bottlehead crew - you done it again! :)
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Wow! Very nice components. Nichicon caps all around!
1 question - can I use 3300uf caps in place of the 2200's? I've got some extra's I'd like to use.
And if I were to replace some electrolytics with film - where can I do the most good?
We spent a lot of the budget on those 2200uF caps that come with the kit. I'm not aware of any 2200uF caps in production that I would use over what we supply.
You can throw a film cap across the battery bank, no harm will be done there.
You can also replace the 1uF electrolytic caps at the inputs with 1uF film caps (any voltage is OK). The way I would do this is to remove those two 1uF caps and replace them with wire jumpers, then put the caps between the RCA jacks and the PC board, which will give you a lot of space.
The other fun thing you could mess with is to wind your own 47uH inductor.
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What are those 2200ufs? At first glance i thought they were bipolar Nichicons but they clearly have a polarity. Just curious as to why you use them over Nichicon FG's or Elnas.
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They are Nichicon KA. They are a little pricier than the FG's, but are essentially a new design intended to be Nichicon's statement electrolytic cap for audio.
We never did end up trying the Elnas that were available, give them a shot and let us know how you like them!
-PB
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Mod 1 - turned the 2200uf's into mufflers instead of stove pipes: 8)
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1869_zps132b352c.jpg&hash=489fe84b1348ae7d7f0be1b138c690a78768c3b5) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1869_zps132b352c.jpg.html)
Now it fits in the Hammond box with no problem. Just have to keep things away from the edges as the Hammond has a bigger lip than the Bottlehead cases.
Mod 2 - Replaced the 1uf input caps with 1uf film:
1st jumpered where the original caps were.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1872_zpse0b7bf80.jpg&hash=e810009867331ab05c40f5f98f342094557f73d2) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1872_zpse0b7bf80.jpg.html)
Then added a pair of Clarity caps:
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1870_zps1edc6452.jpg&hash=792e20ee5d2c815a1b4203c06600567f19cad02d) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1870_zps1edc6452.jpg.html)
I think the films are better - upper end is crystal clear. :)
Supposed tipping those 2200uf's with some baby films would kick it up another notch? ::)
I've a bit of hum on the headphones - left side only...now what did I do? Had that before the mods so it's not recent changes.
Scratch the hum - source direct to amp is perfect. I've got something going on in the way I've my cables laid or the pre.
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Yeah, I'd give the bypassing a shot. That really seems to be a case by case type of modification.
Also, on those extra GND VCC pads, you can add a film bypass cap to the power supply. (Try a 1uF at very low voltage)
-PB
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Bypasses in place - those might look familiar. .01's from the Reduction kit.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1890_zpsdcbb1593.jpg&hash=02a000a8089887a646391fa35aa7140b4f388ead) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1890_zpsdcbb1593.jpg.html)
And I used the odd 1uf clarity cap I had ordered (I like to match caps so I buy an extra or two) over the PS.
Mounted it under the board so my clearance is kept for the Hammond kit.
PB - what's this do for me?
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1891_zpsc7d520cf.jpg&hash=49136c60cba0f7d3125eea93496d93b9e7b104df) (http://s905.photobucket.com/user/all212212/media/DSC_1891_zpsc7d520cf.jpg.html)
Need some listening time...
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PB - what's this do for me?
What're your ears telling you? I'd expect some differences in the treble.
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This might be a bit quick but...
My listening "chain" is a Squeezebox III streaming flac. I'm using Sennheiser HD650 headphones with custom cable (those stock cables...jeez, they suck!) Patty Larkin's "Regrooving the Dream" is playing.
After doing these mods the background went blacker. It was good before, no complaints and nothing noticeable but the sound seems to come out of nowhere now.
Treble before might have seemed "brittle" - maybe digital would be better? Smooth now - way smooth!
Still need time...but this is very nice!
At this time these get my "silly grin" rating.
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PB...
Have I violated some electronics rule by putting in a 250v bypass cap over the DC volts or is that just so unnecessary that no one would normally do it? It's a spare - no cost to me.
And I have a .1 and a .01 - should I add those to the 1uf bypass just for fun or is that just way over the top?