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ALL212 · 25641

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Offline ALL212

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on: July 25, 2014, 01:19:56 PM
Wow!  Very nice components.  Nichicon caps all around!

1 question - can I use 3300uf caps in place of the 2200's?  I've got some extra's I'd like to use.

And if I were to replace some electrolytics with film - where can I do the most good?

Thanks again for a quality kit.

« Last Edit: July 25, 2014, 01:45:37 PM by ALL212 »

Aaron Luebke

Offline fullheadofnothing

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Reply #1 on: July 25, 2014, 02:02:55 PM
Build it stock first, otherwise you have no idea what you're upgrading.

Also, to peel back the curtain a bit, when PB built the first prototype, Doc thought it had promise but wasn't convinced. The biggest difference between that first prototype and the one that made Doc say it was a product was the caps you want to replace.

Food for thought.

Joshua Harris

I Write the Manuals That Make The Whole World Sing
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Offline ALL212

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Reply #2 on: July 25, 2014, 06:03:45 PM
Very good - I'll try not to change much...maybe just wires... ::)

1st question - page 24 - red wire.
Directions say "Attach and solder one end to the front lug of the row furthest from the headphone jack..."
Picture shows attached to the row closest on the same row the battery wire comes in on.

Page 26 - the resistors that go on the headphone jack.  Not on BOM and not in the kit.  Just looks like an oversight.  Also on the same page - 0 Ohm .4w resistors - is that the true value?  Looks like Mouser  594-SFR25-0  ??

Look Ma!  No changes!!!  I would recommend not populating the board with too many components before soldering.  Just do one or two at a time as it's crowded in there.  Also the directions don't call out soldering the socket in but I'm sure you should.  I would also put the IC socket in before C1 and C7.  It's not easy to rotate that socket in with those two caps in there.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1854_zps30c546ee.jpg&hash=78864f78e34c9075f550e70d393d1fb8a532bd71)

So Far...oh, ya - I did change up the wire.  ;D  The input wire is Teflon over silver plated copper.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1859_zps215bc207.jpg&hash=93f44c2c4eef103335ac92d2c5ea02a9c1298b12)

All soldering done except headphone jack resistors.
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1860_zpsb724c66c.jpg&hash=14c71d85b13d5602251b7c7a69c26f2e2b23dc78)

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1862_zpsc9044279.jpg&hash=a96408dcc276b0dfe0c10d410acf326ac55c36d2)

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1861_zps91b35b64.jpg&hash=66b560e2548de77fb49b7e640d7e8a4ecd6c4b3e)

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi905.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fac253%2Fall212212%2FDSC_1863_zps2b34049a.jpg&hash=66f39a36525c236449c6f69a1c8d446910546aa2)

« Last Edit: July 26, 2014, 04:14:40 AM by ALL212 »

Aaron Luebke

Offline Grainger49

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Reply #3 on: July 26, 2014, 04:34:17 AM
Pretty, but it seems to be a University of Georgia color scheme. 

I particularly like the upgraded wire.  It has true texture.


Offline 2wo

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Reply #4 on: July 26, 2014, 05:00:01 AM
A good plan for populating PCB's is to go low to high. add the resistors first, then the next smallest components, working up to the tallest caps...John

John S.

Offline Natural Sound

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Reply #5 on: July 26, 2014, 05:44:06 AM
Quote from: 2wo on July 26, 2014, 05:00:01 AM
A good plan for populating PCB's is to go low to high. add the resistors first, then the next smallest components, working up to the tallest caps...John

Agreed. That's how I do it too.


Offline Cary

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Reply #6 on: July 26, 2014, 06:25:01 AM
So how does it sound? Are you using the Quickie with it?



Offline ALL212

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Reply #7 on: July 26, 2014, 10:12:32 AM
I've got to go get some batteries - I don't have a dozen of these. >:(  Yes, Quickie will be used.

Additional thought - mount the 2200uf caps off the edge of the board (horizontal) instead of vertical so it's not so deep.  My kit box won't work with them in that position.

Ordered the 0 ohm resistors and another set of 2200uf caps to remount horizontal.  I really want to use that kit box!

Quickie had a leaker and wasn't so fine so I put new batteries in it.  Shorted the headphone sides in the Quicksand to each other with other than 0 ohm resistors  ::).  Tested the power - 19v to VCC with switch on.

Wow...I'm going to leave it at that for the moment.  I've got my AV123 ELT525's on them - not so efficient but sound very nice.

Wow... :D

Really... ;D

This is sooooo cool!!   8)

« Last Edit: July 26, 2014, 11:32:54 AM by ALL212 »

Aaron Luebke

Offline ALL212

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Reply #8 on: July 26, 2014, 04:15:19 PM
« Last Edit: July 27, 2014, 03:43:05 PM by ALL212 »

Aaron Luebke

Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #9 on: July 27, 2014, 08:08:21 AM
It sure does look like we left out the headphone resistors on the BOM, we'll get that fixed. 

Looks like you are also correct about the wire on page 24, we missed that one!

You lucked out on two red plates, that's a pretty sweet looking rig.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man

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Reply #10 on: July 27, 2014, 03:09:32 PM
As much as I'd like to say we remember the color of every chassis we send out - before anyone feigns great disappointment with the color panel they get - this was a lucky fluke.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
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Offline ALL212

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Reply #11 on: July 28, 2014, 04:28:18 PM
Got some time tonight to sit and listen and I cannot find anything wrong with this class D stuff.  I can't say I've ever listened to any class D amps but I'm very satisfied with this system.

I bought the speakers from AV123 just before they closed for cheap and my total cost on this listening experience is under $500.  :o   I am very happy and impressed with it.

Thanks again Bottlehead crew - you done it again!   :)

Aaron Luebke

Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #12 on: July 28, 2014, 06:01:35 PM
Quote from: ALL212 on July 25, 2014, 01:19:56 PM
Wow!  Very nice components.  Nichicon caps all around!

1 question - can I use 3300uf caps in place of the 2200's?  I've got some extra's I'd like to use.

And if I were to replace some electrolytics with film - where can I do the most good?

We spent a lot of the budget on those 2200uF caps that come with the kit.  I'm not aware of any 2200uF caps in production that I would use over what we supply.

You can throw a film cap across the battery bank, no harm will be done there.

You can also replace the 1uF electrolytic caps at the inputs with 1uF film caps (any voltage is OK).  The way I would do this is to remove those two 1uF caps and replace them with wire jumpers, then put the caps between the RCA jacks and the PC board, which will give you a lot of space.

The other fun thing you could mess with is to wind your own 47uH inductor.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man

Offline mcandmar

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Reply #13 on: July 29, 2014, 03:14:39 AM
What are those 2200ufs?   At first glance i thought they were bipolar Nichicons but they clearly have a polarity.   Just curious as to why you use them over Nichicon FG's or Elnas.

M.McCandless

Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #14 on: July 29, 2014, 05:09:41 AM
They are Nichicon KA.  They are a little pricier than the FG's, but are essentially a new design intended to be Nichicon's statement electrolytic cap for audio.

We never did end up trying the Elnas that were available, give them a shot and let us know how you like them!

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

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