Recent Posts

91
Spent the whole day checking voltages, everything ok, so did it over and over again. then swapped the speaker cables by accident during the nth hookup, and it worked, cable was lose on the speaker terminal. glad i figured it out, was getting very close to making a trip to fairwood to drop it off and to visit the parents.
92
S.E.X. Kit / Re: Help with a broken diode lead
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on November 10, 2024, 05:44:12 PM »
If you get one that's not the same brand, that's not that big of a deal.  Do be sure to not get the MBR745, which isn't insulated and will cause some major problems.
93
Eros Phono / Ripping an LP. What is wrong here and how do I fix it?
« Last post by kill_surf_city on November 10, 2024, 04:49:11 PM »
Here's the waveform. Seems to be out of balance in some way, but I'm not sure. Is this a channel imbalance or what? Also, when I'm monitoring, it seems like I'm getting a bit more noise/distortion/clicks in the right ear.
94
S.E.X. Kit / Re: Help with a broken diode lead
« Last post by jucasomu on November 10, 2024, 04:13:46 PM »
Im so dumb. Now I see
It all makes sense now

As long as it says MBRF745 I should be good to go right?

Should I get all 4 again so they are the same or it doesnt matter?

Thanks
95
Moreplay / Re: Can balance knob be bypassed
« Last post by Finkle on November 10, 2024, 01:35:18 PM »
Live in the mix! Functional, sweet sounding preamp is back! Was a lot of changes at once, output cap change happened, also heavy duty on/off switch too. Been listening without it for 3 to 4 weeks. Immediately could tell it's going to be a lot of fun having it back. Engaging. Completely black at very high levels when music goes quiet, not that it wasn't before, just probably a good sign?!

A few things I think the next iteration could end up with: using the same red & black wire as sent with the kit, parts express wire coating is minimal. Probably add an on light. Not sure what chassis changes yet but probably stay the same external dimensions, finish the base. Reposition RCA jacks and iec power cord to the back.

Thanks again guys! Rockstars!
96
Eros Phono / Re: Eros 2 Degradation
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on November 10, 2024, 01:26:08 PM »
I immediately see most of the PC board solder joints do not look soldered. 

97
S.E.X. Kit / Re: Help with a broken diode lead
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on November 10, 2024, 01:24:00 PM »
You have to replace that, there is not fixing that.

The diode leads are supposed to go into the bottom holes, which is why you're having the problems you have.  I would remove the three good diodes and make that fix now while you source a replacement. 
98
Can you post some build photos?

The IA/OA voltages being the same just indicates that no current is being drawn in the first stage on that channel.  It doesn't actually mean anything about the operation of the C4S, and the only solder joint I would reflow would be the center leg on Q2.  If you reflowed the solder joints for the LEDs, that can destroy the LEDs.

Could you let me know what DC voltages you see on pin 9 for each tube socket?
99
Eros Phono / Re: Eros 2 Degradation
« Last post by jaloyn on November 10, 2024, 12:46:53 PM »
OK Paul, I attached some images of my Eros 2.  Hopefully, they will reveal something significant.

John
100
S.E.X. Kit / S.E.X. 3.0 kit with C4S no sound right channel, voltages off on C4S board
« Last post by Wei on November 10, 2024, 12:15:01 PM »
Hello!

I tried searching the forum for a similar issue but I could not find it, and I'm hoping for some feedback.

I put together a very nice S.E.X. kit with C4S some time ago, which worked perfectly. I had to put it into storage for a while, and recently dug it out again with a new opportunity to use it again. My joy turned into chagrin when I found the right channel was not producing sound (and have tried swapping cables, speakers, input, etc) and have isolated the problem to the circuit of the right channel.

My resistances were as expected according to the manual excepting:
T30: 200 ohm
T31: 200 ohm
T32: 200 ohm

H2: 200 ohm
H4: 200 ohm
H5: 200 ohm
H6: 5.7K ohm
H7: 200 ohm

With tubes in, voltages were expected, except:
T2: 400V
T4: 11mV on startup, which went to 140mV after a few minutes
T18: 11mV (or is that close enough to zero, to be considered normal?)

I also noted two LEDs out on the C4S board.
OA and IA are both 400V
IB is 385V
OB is 70V

Thinking this could be isolated to the C4S board, I re-soldered the pins of the transistors and resistors on the board. The resistors are still intact and reading 300K and 500 respectively.
I also re-soldered the pins where I saw the resistance and voltage deviations.
Tubes are both glowing and qualitatively I don't appreciate any visual difference.
But the situation is still the same.

Any help would be appreciated!