May 19, 2022, 06:19:20 PM

Recent Posts

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Eros Phono / Re: Eros phono output
« Last post by edphones on Today at 09:33:28 AM »
This what I'm going to try. With this adapter plugged into the Crack, I should be able to pull the Onkyo off the second (top) set of jacks w/o much trouble. Otherwise the Crack is off and passive when the Onkyo is connected and active. Thanks for the help.
Eros Phono / Re: Eros phono output
« Last post by edphones on Today at 07:07:13 AM »
I think the first thought about the RCA splitter at the Crack input is what I'll try. That does sound more ergonomically sustainable in any event. I don't think I want to pull (the Crack input) off the Onkyo tape, but good to know that is an option. Thank you.

Eros Phono / Re: Eros phono output
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on Today at 05:52:49 AM »
I would put a pair of RCA splitters at the input of the Crack and plug the Eros into those, then plug and unplug the cables to the Onkyo at the splitter.  Leaving the Crack in parallel with the Onkyo isn't going to be an issue, but I don't think you'd want to leave the Onkyo in parallel with the Crack necessarily. 

You could also try running the Eros into the Onkyo and using the direct tape output to the Crack, but don't be surprised if the splitter method with unplugging sounds a bit better.
Eros Phono / Eros phono output
« Last post by edphones on Today at 05:31:22 AM »

This is a more general question, but thought to post here since I'm awaiting an Eros2 phono prepamp and that might flavor the response.

I alternate between the Crack headphone amp, and an Onkyo receiver/amp for (inefficient) room speakers. I have been manually jockeying the RCA cabling on and off the one set of outputs on my solid state phono preamp. It's a pain. I know that's not good for the cables/jacks. It even sometimes influences my preference for a particular playback method if I feel lazy. Not ideal.

Now that Eros is on the way to being picked, packed, and shipped, it might be a good time to get some advice. I know fewer and shorter interconnections are better, and switches can introduce noise and complication. What do you all do to easily move between one output device and another? Maybe this is remedied by a preamp, but I'm also unsure if Eros--> BeePre --> Crack makes sense. I expect to run right from the Eros to the Crack, for the time being, but would love it if I could stop unplugging/plugging RCAs on a nearly daily basis.

Thanks all for any thoughts. And mostly thanks to all the Bottlehead crew. I did not know these spun disks could sound so good. It's been terrific to build something really useful and from which I get so much joy. I can't wait to get the Eros2 into the setup. I'm already prospecting for some tubes to roll, a side hobby which has indeed taken on a life of its own.


General Discussion / Re: shipping status
« Last post by Doc B. on Today at 05:09:39 AM »
Our efforts to vastly increase our inventory are starting to show in the shipping status. A lot of Moreplay kits, S.E.X. kits and Reduction kits shipped this week. I believe some BeePre2s will be packing today. I am prepping another run of Crack amps right now, and we should be seeing some tubes from Eastern Europe next week that will allow us to ship more Eros kits. Mainline kits are also coming up in the queue, as are Stereomour2 kits. Kaijus will be available again when we receive output iron from our winder. Hopefully that will be soon.

Thanks for keeping us busy!
Crack / Re: Cathode bias on Crack
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on Today at 04:30:46 AM »
Here is the voltage vs. current curve for the HLMP-6000 (it's on the standard LED line).

If we have 3.2mA of quiescent current flowing through the LED and maybe our AC signal changes that by +/-1mA, you are moving up and down on the portion of that line that's nearly vertical, and so the voltage at the cathode remains nearly constant (I suspect there is some wiggle in the thousands digit if you looked closely enough). 

Remember that a triode is also a one way device too ;)  There's no PNP vacuum tube (yet).
Crack / Re: Cathode bias on Crack
« Last post by Drew1d on Yesterday at 05:21:34 PM »
The LED is what kinda blew my mind when I saw the kit.  I never encountered it in the Guitar tube amp world. (Guitar amps are more mid-fi, than hi-fi)  So, the current should kinda go both ways, but a diode is a one way deal....crazy.  I guess the cathode is negative, but still, the signal is AC.  It's hard to picture in my mind.  So, I know AC and DC can exist on the same circuit, but I can't picture it in my mind yet.  I mean, the AC can "ride" on top of DC.  And I guess that's what "elevating" the ground is.  I'm still learning.

And then add that it is the bias of the tube and  :o 

I've tried Fixed Bias on power tubes.  (applying voltage/current to the input)  I've tried grid leak bias, where the cathode is ground and the input grid leak resistor is megs.  Also, and most commonly, I've tried cathode bias on preamps where you put a resistor to ground on the cathode. ("bottom" of the tube)  But a diode?  a one way faucet....  I had to buy the Crack after seeing that...  Also my HD650s had no bass, I mean...that too....

I mean, I wouldn't call the Crack 12AU7 a preamp, I know the cathode follower is more a buffer or unity gain.  You still need a good voltage signal in.

With a resistor vs LED , I'm sure you can hook it up to a swtich to "pepsi challenge" it.  And I've thought of doing it.  It's just the Crack sounds good,  And I'd need oodles of time to do it in a classy way.  Good luck and report back....
BeePre / Re: BeePre2 Build
« Last post by Audionut on Yesterday at 03:29:21 PM »
And you are right again! I must have mixed them up when looking at the orientation (they are clearly marked on the front but not backside). Thanks again! I’ll post some build pics so it’s not just a trouble shoot thread.
BeePre / Re: BeePre2 Build
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on May 17, 2022, 07:51:45 PM »
I would check to be sure the 10K log pot made it into the volume control hole and the 100K linear made it into the balance spot.  You'll get really wonky channel balance if they are swapped.
BeePre / Re: BeePre2 Build
« Last post by Audionut on May 17, 2022, 06:28:28 PM »
First one is 9.78, second is 9.85, the third is 99.5, fourth is 99.7.
I installed giant jantzen supreme z caps, one lead is close to the edge of its own casing, I doubt that would be the issue?
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