Mainline Power Switch connections

[Phippers]

Hi,

I have ordered a Mainline - and can see that it has just been shipped. Thank you!  I'm really looking forward to the build - can't wait

I have been reading through the manual and I have a question about the power switch connections.

On page 9, the power supply schematic shows the power switch in the "hot" line, after the fuse (which is as expected).

However, on page 42, the wiring instructions say to connect the IEC power inlet Neutral to the cable that runs to the power switch, and to connect the IEC power inlet Live (hot) directly to the tag strip - and then to the primary of the power transformer. 

i.e. the switch is in the Neutral line, with the transformer primary permanently hot.

Is there a reason for this?

Thanks

Best regards,

Paul.

[Thermioniclife]

Yeah basically the line terminal at the Iec Pem is connected to the black on the shielded twisted pair to the power switch and leaves the switch as red to the x former, it's just a color thing don't get hung up on it. They use shielded cable that only has red and black and the drain.
Never look at the color of a wire and assume that it's hot or ground, trace it or test it to be sure.

[Phippers]

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the reply - and nice to meet you.

I wasn't going by the colours actually - I was reading the instruction in the manual says:  "Attach and solder the black wire from the shielded twisted pair cable to the N terminal of the IEC power inlet"

(that's the cable that runs to the power switch)

and then:  "Cut a 51⁄2" (140mm) piece of black wire and strip both ends 1⁄4" (7mm). Attach and solder one end to the L terminal of the IEC power inlet. This wire will go towards terminal 31"

.... which puts the switch in the Neutral line, rather than the Live.

unless I'm reading it incorrectly?

Best regards,

Paul.

[Thermioniclife]

Ok on my manual dated 12-18-19 it states on page 42 step 2 you solder the black wire on the shielded pair to the L terminal on the IEC power inlet and the red wire from the power switch goes to terminal 32L. After that you cut a 5 1/2" black wire and solder to the N terminal on the power inlet. After that you do some twisting and it gets soldered to terminal 31L.

[Paul Birkeland]

In the current Mainline it ended up working a bit better with the layout to switch the neutral. 

[Phippers]

Thanks Lee - aha! so this has changed - my manual is 10-08-20

and Hi Paul, thanks for the reply, good to meet you.

Was the change just for a neater layout or was there a performance reason?

Best regards,

Paul.

[Paul Birkeland]

Just layout and ease of construction.

[Phippers]

Thanks Paul,

In that case I think I'll revert to the earlier design when I build mine, I prefer to have the Live connection switched from a safety point of view.

I am toying with the idea of doing a little bit of metal work to elongate the IEC cutout and use a switched IEC and doing away with the mains toggle switch and wiring. I could then use the vacant hole at the front for a lamp / LED fed from the 6.3v line.

All thoughts / ideas / recommendations welcome.

Best regards,

Paul.

[Paul Birkeland]

You are most welcome to do what you would like with your kit.  Having said that, you'll want to be sure that whatever lamp you add to the regulated 6.3V rail doesn't overheat the regulator.  The hole up front for the power switch would likely need to be drilled out, and you'd have to find a light that would pass through all that material thickness.  The switched IEC module will work just fine, but cutting the chassis plate to acceptable tolerance to snap that in isn't so fun unless you have a mill available. 

You will also find that the resale value of kits with such modifications is far lower than a stock built kit. 

[Phippers]

Thanks Paul - appreciate the feedback.